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Tips and tricks for laying self adheasive vinyl tiles


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#1 OFFLINE   redbarron06

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Posted Mar. 14 2017 - 06:37 AM

So I was debating the idea of laying self adhesive tile down in the bathroom and kitchen rather than dropping almost 2k on one piece vinyl.  Yes I know it is not going to be as durable or waterproof as a single sheet laid down but it would dress up the house for sale for 1/4 of the cost, but it is a flooring that would look much better than what is down and still gives the new owner the option of redoing it and saving some money by pulling it up himself or laying something down right on top of it.

 

 Still going to check with the realtor to see how this could effect the bottom line.  If it is going to be a huge negative I will go ahead with a professional one piece install.  but if I go this route, does any body have any tips or tricks to get it laid out right and especially stuck down well.  The biggest problem I have with the stuff is that it seems the glue gives out after a couple of months.




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#2 ONLINE   gshayd

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Posted Mar. 14 2017 - 09:44 AM

how big is that bathroom?  2K?




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#3 ONLINE   towtruck

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Posted Mar. 14 2017 - 09:48 AM

My only tip for that stuff is buy the best money can buy that has not been sitting in a warehouse for years. The glue seems to dry out around the edges on cheaper stuff. I did a small screened in porch years ago and it did not last long. 

 

Buy your own sheet vinyl and lay it yourself if the room is not too big. I bought a roll of butcher paper and made a template for a bathroom floor and transferred that to a piece of vinyl and glued my own down. They also make the newer vinyl that is thicker (almost 1/4") that goes down with a contact cement that never dries. You can lay it down without the mess of regular glues. My kitchen was done with this and I watched the guy do it....very easy to work with. I would check into that type of glue and think about doing it yourself at least in the bath. 

 

With the right template I can cut anything to fit.....the pros cut as they go....I never did enough to get that good.

 

The guy doing my kitchen cut the whole thing out on the dry floor and had it laying there on it's own. Then he rolled it up half way and started the contact glue and rolled it back out as he went. Then he turned around and did the second half. As long as your floor doesn't have a bunch of cut outs around things it should roll up and lay back down fairly easy.




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#4 ONLINE   devil duck

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Posted Mar. 14 2017 - 09:58 AM

If it's for resale then go for it, let the new owners deal with it in 3-4 years.
The key along with what TT said is cleaning the sub to the point that you could drop you sammage on it and not worry. Even Fine micro dust will cause them to lift in no time.

Edited by devil duck, Mar. 14 2017 - 10:01 AM.



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#5 OFFLINE   redbarron06

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Posted Mar. 14 2017 - 10:07 AM

how big is that bathroom?  2K?


No the bathroom is maybe 12x10, the 2K was for both the kitchen and bath and included the underlayment that vinyl needs. That crap is more expensive than the vinyl itself.

My only tip for that stuff is buy the best money can buy that has not been sitting in a warehouse for years. The glue seems to dry out around the edges on cheaper stuff. I did a small screened in porch years ago and it did not last long. 
 
Buy your own sheet vinyl and lay it yourself if the room is not too big. I bought a roll of butcher paper and made a template for a bathroom floor and transferred that to a piece of vinyl and glued my own down. They also make the newer vinyl that is thicker (almost 1/4") that goes down with a contact cement that never dries. You can lay it down without the mess of regular glues. My kitchen was done with this and I watched the guy do it....very easy to work with. I would check into that type of glue and think about doing it yourself at least in the bath. 
 
With the right template I can cut anything to fit.....the pros cut as they go....I never did enough to get that good.
 
The guy doing my kitchen cut the whole thing out on the dry floor and had it laying there on it's own. Then he rolled it up half way and started the contact glue and rolled it back out as he went. Then he turned around and did the second half. As long as your floor doesn't have a bunch of cut outs around things it should roll up and lay back down fairly easy.


I am not going to mess with trying go deal with a 13x13 sheet of vinyl and all of the counter cutouts and stuff. More trouble that I want to deal with.


#6 OFFLINE   MadeInUSA

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Posted Mar. 15 2017 - 04:11 PM

Start by finding if all of the major walls are square to each other. If not, use the longest uninterrupted wall(thats perpendicular to the wall the door is on) as your straight line to work off of.

You should really prime the floor with a vinyl primer. Ive also heard of guys using latex bonding agent (for concrete) on subfloors.

Like every flooring job, initial measuring and layout makes the world of difference. Not just in a great final product but so you can see problems before you start sticking tiles down.


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#7 ONLINE   Pepper

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Posted Mar. 15 2017 - 06:54 PM

Spend a few bucks more, and use separate adhesive. I was tired of kids destroying carpet in their rooms, so I tore it out and replaced it with vinyl tile. I did a string line, measured off of the back wall of each room to ensure it was square, and got to it. Start in the middle of the room, not at the edge. I spread the adhesive, let it get a little tacky, and then just started laying. I started in the center on the advice of an old contractor, he said that there's a bunch of cutting necessary at the edges that way, but it looks better to the eye. That was 5 years ago, and the stuff is holding up just fine. Wearing well, and none of it has lifted at all. The only "beware", is that if you put it down with the adhesive still wet or too thick, it's gonna want to move on you. Cleaning up any that squishes from between tiles is important too. I really liked the look it gave the kids' rooms, and they can be kids in there without me stressing about carpets. 




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#8 ONLINE   MontanaLon

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Posted Mar. 15 2017 - 10:21 PM

The self adhesive are a pain to deal with. You really have to prime the floor or they will be popping up in no time. And if the subfloor has any sort of texture to it you need to sand it flat. Any texture at all and they will pop. Think glass smooth and you will be on the right track.




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#9 OFFLINE   SturmGewehr

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Posted Mar. 15 2017 - 11:49 PM

I've done the carpet square and tile square thing.  Both came out fine but everybody knows exactly what it is so it is a negative at time of resale.  i have also spruced a house up to sell and needed new carpet and tile which looked expensive but was cheap.  This make over was very successful.  For the successful job, I went to Home Depot, told the carpet/tile guy exactly what I was trying to do.  He said he did this all the time.  He picked the most re-sellable colors and patterns for me, Home Depot did the installation, it was quick and probably cheaper than I would have done on my own.  The house sold quickly for full price. 


Edited by SturmGewehr, Mar. 15 2017 - 11:50 PM.



#10 OFFLINE   BushXM15

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 09:55 AM

Start by finding if all of the major walls are square to each other. If not, use the longest uninterrupted wall(thats perpendicular to the wall the door is on) as your straight line to work off of.

You should really prime the floor with a vinyl primer. Ive also heard of guys using latex bonding agent (for concrete) on subfloors.

Like every flooring job, initial measuring and layout makes the world of difference. Not just in a great final product but so you can see problems before you start sticking tiles down.

 

Correct : I've never heard of using an underlayment under Vinyl , WHY is the first question which come to mind ???.  A floor mastic with appropriate notched trowel is the ticket . Whether it be single pieces or sheet ,personally I'd do the Sheet which is way preferable to individual tiles . An damn for the price of materials  I'd seriously consider installing  TILE  . One of the most durable cost effective floors going , IE yes it takes longer because of grout curing before sealing  but brings highest $$$ return in Kitchen bath applications . An let's face it except for tools used too cut tile ,the labor is the same if YOU'RE doing it !...


Edited by BushXM15, Mar. 16 2017 - 09:56 AM.



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#11 OFFLINE   redbarron06

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 10:00 AM

 

Correct : I've never heard of using an underlayment under Vinyl , WHY is the first question which come to mind ???.  A floor mastic with appropriate notched trowel is the ticket . Whether it be single pieces or sheet ,personally I'd do the Sheet which is way preferable to individual tiles . An damn for the price of materials  I'd seriously consider installing  TILE  . One of the most durable cost effective floors going , IE yes it takes longer because of grout curing before sealing  but brings highest $$$ return in Kitchen bath applications . An let's face it except for tools used too cut tile ,the labor is the same if YOU'RE doing it !...

Well if this was a house that is going to bring premium money or on I was going to stay in I would go as good as I could afford.  But the bottom line is that no matter how much I do to this house, it is still only going to sell as a "starter house". 




#12 ONLINE   devil duck

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 10:18 AM

Well if this was a house that is going to bring premium money or on I was going to stay in I would go as good as I could afford.  But the bottom line is that no matter how much I do to this house, it is still only going to sell as a "starter house".

Exactly,
I would consider using a glue if the flooring isnt all that great. The glue on the stick on tiles isn't very strong. But like was said before, make sure it's as clean as absolutely possible. No gaps, no edges of the sub sticking up, nails flush, etc. Spending more will not net you anymore at the sale, not without going full bore. Then you have priced yourself out of that area for that type of house.


#13 OFFLINE   calebj06

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 03:25 PM

What about the new LVT(luxury vinyl tile). It's works the same as lamanite. 6 inch be maybe 3-4 foot planks. They snap together. Made of vinyl, water proof, and super easy to lay. No glue needed. Cut it all with a razor knife. If you mess up then all you loose is one piece. Radius cuts are easy after you heat it with a heat gun or hair dryer.

https://m.lowes.com/...ring/4294608591

A lot it wood look but there are plenty of other styles as well.


#14 OFFLINE   redbarron06

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 03:55 PM

What about the new LVT(luxury vinyl tile). It's works the same as lamanite. 6 inch be maybe 3-4 foot planks. They snap together. Made of vinyl, water proof, and super easy to lay. No glue needed. Cut it all with a razor knife. If you mess up then all you loose is one piece. Radius cuts are easy after you heat it with a heat gun or hair dryer.

https://m.lowes.com/...ring/4294608591

A lot it wood look but there are plenty of other styles as well.

That would increase the price but not as much as pro installation of once piece.  It might be a good middle point.




#15 OFFLINE   calebj06

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 04:59 PM

That would increase the price but not as much as pro installation of once piece.  It might be a good middle point.


My dad just tore out all of the carpet in his camper and went with the LVT. It went so easy that he had it done by the time I got off work to help. He just went with stuff from lowes. The carpet stores were a lot more expensive.

If you have a tough spot just do like TT said, make a template out of cardboard.


#16 OFFLINE   BushXM15

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 05:02 PM

Well if this was a house that is going to bring premium money or on I was going to stay in I would go as good as I could afford.  But the bottom line is that no matter how much I do to this house, it is still only going to sell as a "starter house". 

 

Understood ; Red : A sale is a sale and whatever it takes is good enough .  A style like this in bath and Kitchen are preferable over wood plank design . Wood scares people in kitchens and bathrooms even if it's Fake wood . Just saying this may be the ticket for You ... 

 

 

http://www.manningto...ectangles/AR300


Edited by BushXM15, Mar. 16 2017 - 05:08 PM.



#17 OFFLINE   redbarron06

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Posted Mar. 16 2017 - 05:25 PM

There re 2 goals of this sale, other than the obvious of paying off the existing mortgage. To pay off all other debt and down payment for the next house. it is also going to have to be enough for 2 moves. We are going to move into a rental that a buddy owns for a short time so that when we start looking g for what we want, we can make a straight up offer not contingent on the sale of ours. The market is just too tight around here and when those contracts are agreed to they are often 2 -3 days to get yours under contract. While I suspect ours will go under contract in less than 2 weeks if we price it right, 72 hours is a bit of a stretch. The up side is that "starter houses" in my area are going for 175-200K. So we will meet our goals but I do t want to run up a bunch of credit getting out of this one to make an extra 2K on a sale. If I can drop 2K and up the value 5K maybe it is worth it if I drop 2K for 2500, it's not.


#18 OFFLINE   BushXM15

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Posted Mar. 17 2017 - 06:56 PM

There re 2 goals of this sale, other than the obvious of paying off the existing mortgage. To pay off all other debt and down payment for the next house. it is also going to have to be enough for 2 moves. We are going to move into a rental that a buddy owns for a short time so that when we start looking g for what we want, we can make a straight up offer not contingent on the sale of ours. The market is just too tight around here and when those contracts are agreed to they are often 2 -3 days to get yours under contract. While I suspect ours will go under contract in less than 2 weeks if we price it right, 72 hours is a bit of a stretch. The up side is that "starter houses" in my area are going for 175-200K. So we will meet our goals but I do t want to run up a bunch of credit getting out of this one to make an extra 2K on a sale. If I can drop 2K and up the value 5K maybe it is worth it if I drop 2K for 2500, it's not.

 

In real estate marketing it's Comp Values . What are the homes going for what do they offer  as opposed too other houses on the market and in the area ?!.

 

 Price is a driving motivation in many house purchases ,the kink in the armor is prospective buyers  not only shop by price but WHAT EACH HOUSE OFFERS FOR THE BUCKS !. That's the Niche is offering MORE than the other house for basically same $ value !. BOL Red  hope it sails smooth ...




#19 OFFLINE   redbarron06

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Posted Mar. 17 2017 - 07:00 PM

In real estate marketing it's Comp Values . What are the homes going for what do they offer  as opposed too other houses on the market and in the area ?!.
 
 Price is a driving motivation in many house purchases ,the kink in the armor is prospective buyers  not only shop by price but WHAT EACH HOUSE OFFERS FOR THE BUCKS !. That's the Niche is offering MORE than the other house for basically same $ value !. BOL Red  hope it sails smooth ...


If I put to much into the house, I will price it out of what I can get for it. The house down the street is owned by a contractor, he inheareted it from his parents. He actually lives next door. To keep his guys busy during slow times he had them basically tear it down to one wall and rebuild it. It went on the market for 1M. Then dropped to 700K. It still cant sell because there are no comps for it in the area to support that price.


#20 ONLINE   gmor

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Posted Mar. 17 2017 - 10:34 PM

I did a bathroom floor in Tampa in November. The surface was poor so I used self leveling cement which turned out well but boy do you have to work fast! Then I used the adhesive primer and self stick vinyl tiles from Home Depot. I had some minor adhesion problems in a few trouble spots where I used extra adhesive.






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