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My Parts List: Thoughts/Suggestions?


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#1 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 12:36 PM

Hey everyone, AK guy here about try my hand at piecing together an AR. I'd love to hear your thoughts on my choices and/or suggestions before I go ahead and pull the trigger. Thanks.

Use: Just a range toy, possibly a future HD gun for my girlfriend if I can talk her into it.

Upper: I'm planning on going with the radical upper from AIM ($169) minus the BCG and charging handle. I like the handguard, 5.56 chamber, and I'm ok with the M4 profile and 1/7 twist rate. I have read about some failures online, but these have all been isolated to the BCG or lower receiver parts, neither of which will be from radical.

Lower: Plum Crazy. I can't beat the price or the weight, and they're supposedly fairly reliable from the research I've done. $99!

BCG: This is my biggest question of this "build". I want to keep the price as low as possible, but I also don't want to have reliability issues. AIM has several options I've been considering. Basic for $80, the same BCG but with Nitride finish for $10 more (is there really a difference?) and a lightweight Nitride option for $110. How much do the lightweight BCG's effect the recoil impulse and reliability? Open to any suggestions.

Muzzle device: I have to trash the A2 flash hider (NJ Illegal), and then install and weld/pin on a muzzle brake or cap. I'm really looking for any muzzle brake suggestions here. Cheaper is better, it's going to get ruined anyway. The best deal I've found so far on a brake that isn't horribly ugly is the $40 Midwest from AIM.

Charging hadle: Cheapo $15 AIM basic. I don't think I need anything fancy here, do I?

Stock: Open to any suggestions here too. I either have to have the stock that comes on the lower permidently pinned to the buffer so it can't be adjusted, or have my FFL trash it completely. The thought of installing an actual fixed stock hurts less then looking at a pinned collapsible one. I like a very short length of pull (think Warsaw AK stocks) and if I decide to pin the original one it will probably be in position 2 or 3. Has to be cheap if it's going to be a replacement.

I think that about covers it, sorry for the novel. I'm really looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts/concerns/ideas.

Thanks!,
Beech


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#2 OFFLINE   Derk_digler24

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 04:06 PM

Ditch the poly lower, go buy an anderson for half the price and dont worry abou tthe extra ounce its saving you unless your going to be carrying this rifle every day for the rest of your life up and down mountains 20-30 miles a day.
http://www.primaryar...ceiver-ar-15-a3
That one is 49.99, you can find them cheaper.
Also, since i saved you 50 bucks, check out a bravo company gun fighter charging handle. They are the cats ass.
As for a stock i like magpul, larue tactical, vltor. But its all personal preference.
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#3 OFFLINE   CityfiedHillbilly

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 04:21 PM

From what I've read on charging handles, if you're going to go cheap, buy 2. You'll probably need the second one sooner than you think. However, you may never have an issue. It's a luck of the draw type thing I guess.


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#4 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 04:38 PM

The poly lower is $100 complete. A stripped lower would require buying a parts kit, stock, buffer/spring/tube, grip....

I mean, I haven't really seen any reports of failures, and this isn't going to be a "take into battle" rifle. That's AK territory for me. I'm not completely ruling out a conventional lower, but I really haven't seen much to say it's a necessity.

As for charging handles, I know the BCM's are well regarded but is it really that common to break them? I don't even see it gettin used much except in the event of a malfunction. I see the DSA's are $20, made of forged aluminum, that seems like a reasonable option.


#5 OFFLINE   JFife

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 04:38 PM

Any of the AIM BCGs are good to go. I have a phosphate and an EXO NiB and I like them both. If you were trying to decide between the nitride and the phospate I would get nitride. If you go with a Radical upper, I would double check all the fasteners and make sure they are tight, and probably blue locktite them. That includes the gas block set screws. Ask me how I know... LOL




#6 OFFLINE   JFife

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 04:42 PM

The poly lower is $100 complete. A stripped lower would require buying a parts kit, stock, buffer/spring/tube, grip....

I mean, I haven't really seen any reports of failures, and this isn't going to be a "take into battle" rifle. That's AK territory for me. I'm not completely ruling out a conventional lower, but I really haven't seen much to say it's a necessity.

As for charging handles, I know the BCM's are well regarded but is it really that common to break them? I don't even see it gettin used much except in the event of a malfunction. I see the DSA's are $20, made of forged aluminum, that seems like a reasonable option.

 

Look for a complete assembled lower from PSA. You can get a quality aluminum lower assembled for about $30 extra. http://palmettostate...o-magazine.html




#7 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 06:17 PM

I appreciate the input.

It actually has me thinking, local FFL's here are such a rip off that I could probably do much better out of state at a big box store.

A quick look and it would appear that cabelas in DE has some stripped Anderson lowers for right about $50. It'll still end up a bit more expensive than the plum crazy option, but not a whole lot more after figuring shipping and $50+ for the transfer fee. Also on the plus side I can avoid registering it in NJ that way.


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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 07:13 PM

Also on the plus side I can avoid registering it in NJ that way.

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#9 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 07:56 PM

About NJ and how terrible it is? I don't blame you.

It's completely legal to buy a long gun out of state, as long as it's NJ compliant and it's from an FFL dealer, both of which it will be. Buying it in state means you have to go through NJ NICS, which is about 6x as expensive as other states and at least that slow and also that it will be instantly registered with the state.

If you purchase out of state you can register it after you return home if you like, but there's no legal obligation to do. so.


#10 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 07:58 PM

Any recommendations for a lower parts kit? Preferably without the grip.


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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 08:13 PM

Any recommendations for a lower parts kit? Preferably without the grip.

Most will come with a grip, it's a $1 part to the company, means nothing in the grand scheme of things. I have a half-dozen laying around, thinking about trying out my home-stippling skills on them. 

 

Any LPK will do, if from a known supplier. AIM, PSA, DPMS, I've used all of the above, and never had a problem with any. Just make sure everything looks "right" before you put it all together. I suggest that anyone who owns a black rifle build one, it helps understand how everything works, and if something goes sideways, what will have to be replaced to make it work again. 


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#12 OFFLINE   Derk_digler24

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 08:19 PM

I am not advising you to break any state or local laws and would see what you need to do to make it legal.
For a complete lower look into palmettostatearmory.com and check for blem lowers that are complete, i have 1 and it was 139.99.


#13 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 09:00 PM

Most will come with a grip, it's a $1 part to the company, means nothing in the grand scheme of things. I have a half-dozen laying around, thinking about trying out my home-stippling skills on them. 
 
Any LPK will do, if from a known supplier. AIM, PSA, DPMS, I've used all of the above, and never had a problem with any. Just make sure everything looks "right" before you put it all together. I suggest that anyone who owns a black rifle build one, it helps understand how everything works, and if something goes sideways, what will have to be replaced to make it work again. 


Thanks. I just was curious if any of them were know for better trigger or parts than others.


I agree about building too. I converted my Saiga myself, which is basically completely stripping the lower and rebuilding it completely differently. It was a good learning experience. I'd bet that an AR lower would be even easier, damn sure is more support and instruction out there for it.


#14 OFFLINE   JohnGaltOU812

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Posted Apr. 17 2017 - 10:44 PM

If you aren't building a 22lr gun, I would suggest a different lower.

 

If you want poly, the Cav Arms stuff isn't too bad.  GWACS has taken over production since CavArms went under.  In general, regular aluminum lowers tend to give the best results.

 

You can find LPKs that come without trigger components (trigger, hammer, disconnector) to allow you to purchase any other aftermarket trigger of your choice.  The ALG ACT trigger as well as the BCM PNT trigger both have good reports at reasonable price.

 

As far as the NJ laws go, I would advise moving to America.  Federally, if you are purchasing a stripped lower, it is is not a "rifle or shotgun" and is restricted when transferring to you in a state you don't live in; same as buying a handgun in a state you don't live in.  Federally not legal.




#15 OFFLINE   gshayd

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Posted Apr. 18 2017 - 01:58 AM

If you want a non metal lower......I would suggest a hybrid from TN Arms Co

 

http://www.tnarmsco....new-category-2/

 

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#16 OFFLINE   Pepper

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Posted Apr. 18 2017 - 05:06 AM

Thanks. I just was curious if any of them were know for better trigger or parts than others.


I agree about building too. I converted my Saiga myself, which is basically completely stripping the lower and rebuilding it completely differently. It was a good learning experience. I'd bet that an AR lower would be even easier, damn sure is more support and instruction out there for it.

I haven't played with a Saiga, so I can't speak to that. An AR is pretty easy to assemble, once you know the tricks, and if you have the right tools. If you don't know the tricks, and don't have the right tools, you can really booger things up. I suggest that anyone who is going to assemble more than one lower, purchase a dedicated tool kit, just for AR's. It has made my life much easier. 




#17 OFFLINE   RedBowTies88

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Posted Apr. 18 2017 - 06:42 AM

 
As far as the NJ laws go, I would advise moving to America.  Federally, if you are purchasing a stripped lower, it is is not a "rifle or shotgun" and is restricted when transferring to you in a state you don't live in; same as buying a handgun in a state you don't live in.  Federally not legal.

Crap, I just did some research and it appears that you're absolutely right. Now I have to go back to original plan of getting completely ripped off for a lower. The absolute cheapest local ffl for transfers is still $65. Some are $100!!

So now I'm thrown back into the undecided realm when it comes to the lower... I was so excited for a $50 stripped lower that now I'm just a little heartbroken.

Living outside of America really is aweful, you guys don't know the half of it. All the black rifle compliance bull is just the tip of the iceburg.

Edited by RedBowTies88, Apr. 18 2017 - 06:43 AM.



#18 OFFLINE   MadeInUSA

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Posted Apr. 18 2017 - 07:22 AM

Any recommendations for a lower parts kit? Preferably without the grip.


I have used the CMMG one. You still need a trigger, ALG makes nice milspec triggers for around $60

http://www.primaryar...l-group-55ca601


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#19 OFFLINE   Pepper

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Posted Apr. 18 2017 - 03:35 PM

Crap, I just did some research and it appears that you're absolutely right. Now I have to go back to original plan of getting completely ripped off for a lower. The absolute cheapest local ffl for transfers is still $65. Some are $100!!

So now I'm thrown back into the undecided realm when it comes to the lower... I was so excited for a $50 stripped lower that now I'm just a little heartbroken.

Living outside of America really is aweful, you guys don't know the half of it. All the black rifle compliance bull is just the tip of the iceburg.

Do not, under any circumstances, waste your money on a polymer lower. You'll regret it eventually. One of our former sponsors didn't believe us, sang the praises of polymer for use in rifles. He dropped the gun on it's first outing, broke the lower. He was man enough to admit he'd goofed, and he saw the light too. Watch the sales, you can find a stripped lower for under $60 most of the time. Look at PSA, see if they have any "blems" for sale. They usually have a pretty good deal, and most times you can't see the "blem". 


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#20 OFFLINE   TackleberryMCS

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Posted Apr. 18 2017 - 06:03 PM

Hey everyone, AK guy here about try my hand at piecing together an AR. I'd love to hear your thoughts on my choices and/or suggestions before I go ahead and pull the trigger. Thanks.

Use: Just a range toy, possibly a future HD gun for my girlfriend if I can talk her into it.

Upper: I'm planning on going with the radical upper from AIM ($169) minus the BCG and charging handle. I like the handguard, 5.56 chamber, and I'm ok with the M4 profile and 1/7 twist rate. I have read about some failures online, but these have all been isolated to the BCG or lower receiver parts, neither of which will be from radical.

Lower: Plum Crazy. I can't beat the price or the weight, and they're supposedly fairly reliable from the research I've done. $99!

BCG: This is my biggest question of this "build". I want to keep the price as low as possible, but I also don't want to have reliability issues. AIM has several options I've been considering. Basic for $80, the same BCG but with Nitride finish for $10 more (is there really a difference?) and a lightweight Nitride option for $110. How much do the lightweight BCG's effect the recoil impulse and reliability? Open to any suggestions.

Muzzle device: I have to trash the A2 flash hider (NJ Illegal), and then install and weld/pin on a muzzle brake or cap. I'm really looking for any muzzle brake suggestions here. Cheaper is better, it's going to get ruined anyway. The best deal I've found so far on a brake that isn't horribly ugly is the $40 Midwest from AIM.

Charging hadle: Cheapo $15 AIM basic. I don't think I need anything fancy here, do I?

Stock: Open to any suggestions here too. I either have to have the stock that comes on the lower permidently pinned to the buffer so it can't be adjusted, or have my FFL trash it completely. The thought of installing an actual fixed stock hurts less then looking at a pinned collapsible one. I like a very short length of pull (think Warsaw AK stocks) and if I decide to pin the original one it will probably be in position 2 or 3. Has to be cheap if it's going to be a replacement.

I think that about covers it, sorry for the novel. I'm really looking forward to hearing everyone's thoughts/concerns/ideas.

Thanks!,
Beech

 

Upper: Radical Firearms upper have been hit and miss. The have had barrel issues such as the barrel extension coming loose. You can do much better for a few dollars more at PSA.

 

Lower: Stay away from polymer lowers unless you are building a dedicated .22lr upper. For what some forged aluminum lowers are selling for, there is no excuse not to buy one. PSA has great deals on complete lower assemblies which are a far cry better that the polymer lower you are looking at.

 

BCG: AIM Surplus BCGs are good to go. No argument on them.

 

Muzzle Device: Whatever your choice is that will be NJ compliant.

 

Charging Handle: The one from AIM Surplus should be fine.

 

Stock: As far as fixed stocks go, there are a number of them. One that may look good is the MAGPUL MOE Fixed Stock. https://www.magpul.c...-stock-mil-spec There is also the MAGPUL Rifle Stock. https://www.magpul.c...moe-rifle-stock

 

Where you want to spend good money is the barrel and BCG. That is the heart of the AR. The lower needs to be strong and durable. Polymer lowers DO NOT support this. I have seen too many lowers crack in critical places. Choose your muzzle brake or compensator carefully. Muzzle brakes can be very loud. Comps are a better choice. Check to see if this one can be used. It is a combo muzzle brake/comp/flash hider. http://slrrifleworks...&product_id=382


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