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brownells alumahyde II / brownells Gun Kote / Lauer Duracoat


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#1 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted May. 02 2008 - 08:48 AM

Aside from duracoat not needing oven baking, what's the difference with gun kote / alumahyde and duracoat?

I have easy access to gun kote and alumahyde but a little harder to get duracoat.

so any difference?


#2 OFFLINE   Colt45Guy

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Posted May. 03 2008 - 04:19 AM

Aside from duracoat not needing oven baking, what's the difference with gun kote / alumahyde and duracoat?

I have easy access to gun kote and alumahyde but a little harder to get duracoat.

so any difference?




KG Gunkote is much easier to work with IMO. No reducers, no mixing, and you can complete a project in a few hrs vs. a few weeks.

that being said, the Duracoat is a bit tougher. If you put the KG on too thick, it has a tendancy to chip on corners--but, it's easier to touch up. Alumahyde works well on aluminum, but doesn't seem to bond well to steel...I generally stick with KG for everything because of ease of use and time.....KG holds up as well or better than parkerizing or bluing, and I don't have the patience for Duracoat's cure time. but it's all good stuff.


*make sure you prep--if it's not degreased and clean, NOTHING will work well


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#3 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted May. 03 2008 - 05:58 AM

is brownells gun kote the same with KG gun kote. Im pushing to the side of gun kote... brownells have them in aerosol cans.

brownells gun kote for ar15 reciever... what do you think ?


#4 OFFLINE   Colt45Guy

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Posted May. 03 2008 - 06:32 AM

is brownells gun kote the same with KG gun kote. Im pushing to the side of gun kote... brownells have them in aerosol cans.

brownells gun kote for ar15 reciever... what do you think ?




Brownells GunKote = KG GunKote




My FAL and my AR are both 'koted....holding up very well. HOWEVER--you may need to abrasive blast first to give the paint more surface area to bond to. The directions say that abrasive blasting or parkerizing are the best surface preps. I've done both, and the parkerizing seems to work best.....can't park aluminum though. You'll need to rough up the surface a bit. I'd go with the finest grit possible. Brownells has ultra fine aluminum oxide that works very well. It's fine enough that it will rough up the surface, but won't dig through the anodizing layer (as long as you don't let the blast cover an area too long)


The aerosol cans are convenient, but you need to watch the nozzle. If it gets clogged, you'll have spatters. An airbrush is really inexpensive--I bought mine from Harbor Freight and I think I paid a whopping $4....the GunKote goes on pretty thin and you'll likely need several coats to get full coverage on any corners/high spots--its harder to do with the spray cans--not impossible, but harder.



FYI: projects like this require before/after pics--bonus points are awarded for showing work in progress :wink:


#5 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted May. 03 2008 - 10:59 AM

Brownells GunKote = KG GunKote
My FAL and my AR are both 'koted....holding up very well. HOWEVER--you may need to abrasive blast first to give the paint more surface area to bond to. The directions say that abrasive blasting or parkerizing are the best surface preps. I've done both, and the parkerizing seems to work best.....can't park aluminum though. You'll need to rough up the surface a bit. I'd go with the finest grit possible. Brownells has ultra fine aluminum oxide that works very well. It's fine enough that it will rough up the surface, but won't dig through the anodizing layer (as long as you don't let the blast cover an area too long)


The aerosol cans are convenient, but you need to watch the nozzle. If it gets clogged, you'll have spatters. An airbrush is really inexpensive--I bought mine from Harbor Freight and I think I paid a whopping $4....the GunKote goes on pretty thin and you'll likely need several coats to get full coverage on any corners/high spots--its harder to do with the spray cans--not impossible, but harder.
FYI: projects like this require before/after pics--bonus points are awarded for showing work in progress :wink:


Id love to use my badger proffesional series airbrush. but unfortunately. What we have here in the Philippines is only the aerosol type. brownells doesn't ship gun kote... classifying it as flamable. I have an option with duracoat but they haven't answered me yet.

2nd problem is that I don't have access to sand blasting equipment. Im planning to use 400 grit sandpaper. hope it holds up.

somebody also suggested that I warm the spray can in a hot basin before spraying. I do have experience with the aerosol can nozzle. I'll just have some reducer / thinner ready to clean it up. Im counting on gun kote to be really thin.

I always take before and after pix.

I'm going to check on my oven toaster on monday. and lastly. I haven't learned how to gut my lower reciever. Im going to try that next weekend. I'll need to buy roll pin punch for the upper reciever too.

let's talk internals... should I kote them too?? I was planning to do the controls. but do I have to kote the entire trigger? or just the ones that are exposed on the outside?

thanks for your reply


#6 OFFLINE   Colt45Guy

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Posted May. 03 2008 - 10:22 PM

Id love to use my badger proffesional series airbrush. but unfortunately. What we have here in the Philippines is only the aerosol type. brownells doesn't ship gun kote... classifying it as flamable. I have an option with duracoat but they haven't answered me yet.

2nd problem is that I don't have access to sand blasting equipment. Im planning to use 400 grit sandpaper. hope it holds up.

somebody also suggested that I warm the spray can in a hot basin before spraying. I do have experience with the aerosol can nozzle. I'll just have some reducer / thinner ready to clean it up. Im counting on gun kote to be really thin.

I always take before and after pix.

I'm going to check on my oven toaster on monday. and lastly. I haven't learned how to gut my lower reciever. Im going to try that next weekend. I'll need to buy roll pin punch for the upper reciever too.

let's talk internals... should I kote them too?? I was planning to do the controls. but do I have to kote the entire trigger? or just the ones that are exposed on the outside?

thanks for your reply



I'd recommend not painting the innards. It will cause you no end of problems, and once that stuff has cured, you'll need to sand blast to remove it.


#7 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted May. 04 2008 - 01:47 AM

yah.. thought so too. so i'll just paint the exposed parts leaving the part half painted. thanks for yoru replies. you've been a great help


#8 OFFLINE   Colt45Guy

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Posted May. 04 2008 - 04:38 AM

yah.. thought so too. so i'll just paint the exposed parts leaving the part half painted. thanks for yoru replies. you've been a great help



you're quite welcome :bow:


#9 OFFLINE   DougW

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Posted May. 04 2008 - 11:02 AM

KG Gunkote is much easier to work with IMO. No reducers, no mixing, and you can complete a project in a few hrs vs. a few weeks.

that being said, the Duracoat is a bit tougher. If you put the KG on too thick, it has a tendancy to chip on corners--but, it's easier to touch up. Alumahyde works well on aluminum, but doesn't seem to bond well to steel...I generally stick with KG for everything because of ease of use and time.....KG holds up as well or better than parkerizing or bluing, and I don't have the patience for Duracoat's cure time. but it's all good stuff.
*make sure you prep--if it's not degreased and clean, NOTHING will work well



My experience with AlumHyde II is totally different. I built an L1A1 and used AlumaHyde II for the entire rifle. It has held up wonderfully. I use it on steel, and it works great for me. I have had trouble with AlumaHyde on aluminum though. I do agree with Colt45Guy that everything must be degreased! I just restored a bubba'ed Savage #4mk1* with AlumaHyde II black to make the rifle look like the origional Suconite coating when it was manufactured. I love the stuff!


#10 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted May. 05 2008 - 12:03 AM

that's great to know. I guess I didn't prepare the surface that well.. I didn't have access to an oven that time. I just let it stay under the sun for preheating. probably a bad idea. and I use the sun for oven bake after. which is even a worse idea.


#11 OFFLINE   TigerStripe

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Posted May. 05 2008 - 12:45 PM

What about Alumahyde over Duracoat?


TS


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#12 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted May. 05 2008 - 07:00 PM

What about Alumahyde over Duracoat?
TS


I wanna try something different. duracoat... hopefully they'll ship to my country. it's not being sold.


#13 OFFLINE   sti1968

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Posted Jul. 10 2008 - 10:44 PM

I have used duracoat on a few firearms. I usually bake mine for 1 hr @ 110. Looks good and is really durable.


#14 OFFLINE   GaCop103

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Posted Aug. 07 2008 - 06:59 AM

AlumaHyde II adheres best on gun steel if the parts are bead or sand blasted first. I used Brownell's matt black on a 7x57 Mannlicher rifle I built and its holding up fine.

Tom


#15 OFFLINE   Abusive Red

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Posted Sep. 09 2008 - 03:30 PM

OD Green Alumahyde II.

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Degrease %100

Preheat parts

Shake can until your arm is numb.

Apply in thin fogging coats (3-4)

Let sit for 30 min (DONT TOUCH)

Bake in 180-200F oven for 5-6 hours

Let cool

Assemble

Play


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#16 OFFLINE   richl

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Posted Sep. 09 2008 - 04:10 PM

how dose the Betty Crocker method hold up against the nylon parts ???

dose it kinda nuke them ???

i don't wanna try this method and explain to the misses how my stock got baked on the oven racks.... :oh yea:


#17 OFFLINE   Abusive Red

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Posted Sep. 09 2008 - 04:23 PM

how dose the Betty Crocker method hold up against the nylon parts ???

dose it kinda nuke them ???

i don't wanna try this method and explain to the misses how my stock got baked on the oven racks.... :oh yea:



Keep it under 200F and it's fine. Use wire to hang them from the oven racks. Beats waiting 2-3 weeks or whatever for the Alumahyde to air cure.


#18 OFFLINE   LanceRiley

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Posted Oct. 01 2008 - 05:42 AM

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m16 inards. just taped off the parts where the trigger contacts.


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a couple of recievers did it light to make it look grey



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a 40 cal 1911 custom build. using caspian slide and enterprise frame. this time I made it thicker to make it blacker.





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