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Everything posted by Objekt

  1. My Lone Wolf barrel has been a big disappointment. There's a whole thread about it somewhere else (Enos forums I believe). I've owned the barrel for years, and have just never been able to find any way to make it run. Factory recoil spring, extra-heavy recoil spring, various bullets (from cast lead to plated to jacketed), various powders...it doesn't matter. I like the increased case support, but the LW barrel doesn't work, so it has to go. I'll just have to live with working my brass harder by firing it in the original Glock barrel, if I can get that to work.
  2. I decided "to heck with it" and have been loading Montana Golds for a while now. No more smoke. Still using Bullseye in .40 S&W. I'm having a function issue with my Glock 20, which I've pretty much narrowed to a problem with the aftermarket barrel (Lone Wolf).
  3. S&W 10-series pistols may be a different matter. I have extra-strong recoil spring for them as well, but haven't tried the "new" Blue Dot loads in them yet.
  4. Been there, done that. The essential problem is the Glock barrel, unfortunately. It's not designed with reloading in mind, but rather to keep working when it's really dirty. So there's a certain lack of case support near the base. Brass run through a Glock barrel will develop some degree of bulge there, whether you're pushing maximum loads or not. My ultimate solution to the problem was to buy a Lone Wolf aftermarket barrel for my Glock 20, and start over with brand new Starline brass. The LW barrel has almost complete case support and a somewhat tighter chamber overall, meaning the brass gets worked less when fired. I now have Starline brass I have run through the LW barrel several times, without bulging at the base. This does mean that brass bulged by a previous trip through the Glock barrel, is often a loss. It usually makes reloads that won't chamber in the Lone Wolf barrel, or at least it did for me. I tried an EGW U-die, but it only made the ugly "shelf" effect you see in the photos above. I tried to make my own push-through solution as well, using a Lee FCD as Shadow describes, but it also did not work for me. On the up side: the conventional rifling of the aftermarket barrel means I can shoot cast lead without the slightest concern re: leading of Glock barrel leading to a Kaboom. An aftermarket barrel is not a cheap solution, but Glocks just don't come from the factory in a reloader-friendly configuration.
  5. I had a thread about it on this very forum, when it happened a couple of years ago: Primers going off on press I still have no idea how it happened. Almost had to be a defective primer, but there's no way to be sure. As you'll read there, I have a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP press. I also load with a shotgun press having a tray-type primer feed, and I use a hand primer for cartridges I don't reload on the progressive press. So I have almost every type of primer feeding system. I don't regard any of them as safer than the others, except for the Lock-n-Load's metal tube. It is the only one designed to direct a mass detonation safely away from the user. I shared further thoughts on the issue on the Brian Enos forums last year: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125449 That is not to say a mass detonation is impossible. The thread I just linked contains a tale of a guy who somehow managed to set off all the primers in his Lock-n-Load AP tube. But...the blast went straight up, not into him. I'm not sure what would have happened, had he set off a tray full of primers with nothing more than a plastic cover between him and 75 angry pieces of metal. It probably wouldn't have been good. This kind of thing is why I wear safety glasses while reloading, no matter what. Same rule for cleaning guns. An unloaded gun isn't going to go off, but getting popped in the eye by a spring or pin would ruin my whole day.
  6. This has been my experience. I ran through a big box (1000 primers) of Federal #155's, back when I was experimenting with various bullets and powders for 10mm, from 170 gr. cast lead to 220 gr. plated, using IMR 800X, Blue Dot, and AA #9 for the heavier bullets. I found no significant difference in muzzle velocities in any of my 10mm guns with any load. This is compared to a variety of standard large pistol primers (CCI #300, Winchester Large Pistol, and Federal #150). Federal #155's are also the only primer that has ever detonated on my reloading press (Hornady Lock 'n' Load AP).
  7. I haven't had a lot of time for reloading since I went back to school last fall, but in the last 2 weeks, I finally got around to trying some 10mm loads with Blue Dot + cast lead in my Glock 20. I've been trying loads with Blue Dot because I was unsatisfied with loads using Bullseye. Blue Dot doesn't seem to produce as much smoke, or leading. They are very different powders. The maximum with Bullseye is about 6 grains, where 10 grains is a starting load with Blue Dot, using a 170 gr. cast lead bullet. An extra-heavy (22 lb. Wolff Gunsprings), aftermarket recoil spring made the gun a jam-o-matic with every Blue Dot load I tried. The gun simply would not run until I reinstalled the original recoil spring/guide rod assembly. I've only fired a few dozen of the Blue Dot + cast lead loads so far, but today's results were promising. I went from a misfeed every 1 to 3 rounds with the extra-heavy recoil spring, to flawless function with the factory spring. Once finals are over, I intend to really test this load by making & firing a few hundred. It's a tough job, but somebody has to do it. If I had any advice, it would be: Don't bother buying an aftermarket recoil spring for your Glock 20. You most likely don't need a heavier one, and will frustrate yourself and waste time & effort trying to make it work.
  8. One "buyer" never paid, so 1 box of these bullets is again available. Terms are as above, except that USPS rates went up slightly in the meantime. Your shipping cost will be $7 for one box ($47 total). Sale in process.
  9. Objekt

    -1 for harleycolt

    220 gr. plated bullets. Here's my thread: Link I won't have any trouble selling them elsewhere, but it's annoying when someone says "I'll take it" and then never actually pays.
  10. harleycolt committed to buy on Jan. 11th. As of today, Feb. 8th, I still have not received payment, despite a reminder 2 weeks ago, and harleycolt's promise that payment would be sent immediately. On the advice of a moderator, I have canceled the deal.
  11. Using a 9mm bullet as the core is an interesting twist. When I first read about this a couple of years ago, they were using lead wire as the core, and the tools were more expensive. Some people also build FMJ bullets for .223 Rem (0.224" diameter) from lead wire + .22 LR cases.
  12. Fit is probably the culprit. I slugged the Lone Wolf barrel for my Glock 20 last summer, and apparently the groove diameter is 0.401". That makes no sense that they'd build it that way. Surely they know commercial cast bullets are typically 0.401", and FMJs are usually 0.400" or 0.4005"? I guess I have to either find a way to get .402" bullets or else switch to Montana Golds. Bullseye may not be ideal, but it's one of the only powders my Glock 20 will work with. Maybe the G20 needs a sharp pressure spike. All I know is that I tried a bunch of loads with Blue Dot and both plated (Rainier 180 gr.) and cast lead (Missouri Bullet Co. 180 gr.) and they wouldn't cycle. It was the same using either the original or Lone Wolf barrels, and either original or heavy recoil springs. No, I don't understand it either. About the only 10mm load I haven't tried (with current materials) is the 170 gr. cast lead bullets over Blue Dot. But, if the bullets need to be 0.402", that probably won't help. Unique is not the answer, unfortunately. I tried it once, but it metered very poorly in my powder measure. I load on a Hornady Lock-n-Load AP progressive, so a powder that I have to hand-measure isn't going to work. I tried Accurate #9, which meters quite well since it is a ball powder. Mostly I worked up loads with heavy, 220 gr. plated bullets. I found that I had to use lots of it (north of 9 grains) to get decent 10mm velocities, and a lot of it didn't even burn. There were always unburned particles left in the barrel and brass, even with magnum large pistol primers. If there is a secret to getting Accurate #9 to burn completely in 10mm, please share. To clarify, I have no idea how hard the 170 gr., locally-produced bullets are. A friend makes them as a hobby, but he's not set up to determine hardness. However, if bore fit is the problem, it doesn't really matter how hard they are. I've slugged the bore on my .40 S&W M&P, but the slug is impossible to measure for diameter. The .40 S&W M&P uses a 5-groove barrel, so no two grooves are opposite. Maybe there's some special technique to measure such a thing, but I don't know of any way. I've pulled bullets from my 10mm reloads and measured them, but found no evidence that they were somehow getting swaged to a smaller size. I only taper crimp enough to straighten out the case mouth wall, rather than having it bite into the bullet. I'd like to look at Bayou Bullets' offerings, but their website is "Under Construction." Do they normally sell moly-coated and/or oversized (0.402") bullets? update: I spoke with the local guy whose bullets I've been using. He says he can make them 0.402" instead of 0.401", it's just a matter of using a different sizing die. That's good. I'm off to slug the rest of my guns, to find out which ones (aside from the M&P) maybe need a 0.402" bullet or even a slightly larger .45 ACP bullet. Pretty sure I'm going to dump Bullseye when I use up my current supply. It's a fairly dirty powder, and isn't ideal for 10mm. I'll probably switch to Titegroup. I used some a few years ago and was very satisfied with the performance, metering, and relative cleanliness.
  13. For a while now, I've used cast lead bullets to reload for my Glock 20, with a Lone Wolf Distributing aftermarket barrel. While cast lead works, I'm tired of the huge, excessive amount of smoke. It is completely out of hand. I almost can't see the target after a few shots. I have much the same problem when using the 170 gr. cast lead bullets for .40 S&W loads, in two different guns. Another problem is that the lubricating wax gets in every nook and cranny. It doesn't just look bad, it can also interfere with gun function. The bullets I use are locally-produced, 170 gr., .401" diameter with a band of waxy lube. They lead a little, but nothing a Lead-Away cloth can't clean up. I tried some Missouri Bullet Co. 180 gr. cast lead bullets (IDP #7 variety). Despite the claimed Brinell 18 hardness, they leaded more than the local guy's bullets, and smoked just as badly. Also, they didn't work in my Glock 20. I make nearly all my 10mm reloads with Bullseye. I've also tried Blue Dot, and had more or less the same amount of smoke. So I'm looking at the bullet as the thing to change. I tried plated bullets once, but it didn't work out. Billy Bullets seems to be the only manufacturer still offering a moly-coated cast lead handgun bullet, or at any rate the only one I can order online. I thought about going FMJ. But boy would it cost. Montana Gold FMJ/CMJs are 13¢-15¢ each, depending on how many I buy. Is there something in my reloading process that could be causing excessive smoke? Any ideas? Or should I just hold my nose (and pay through it!) and order the Montana Gold bullets?
  14. For sale: Up to 2000 West Coast brand plated bullets, 220 gr., .4005" diameter. Round nose, flat point profile. Sold in boxes of 500 (up to 4 available). Sale in process. Diameter at base is 0.4005", as shown in photo. Length is 0.719" to 0.720". Load data for 220 gr. bullets in .40 S&W was worked up by a number of competitive shooters several years ago, and is available on the Internet. If you shoot IPSC/IDPA/other action pistol events, you probably know people shooting 220 gr. bullets in .40 S&W. These bullets make it easy to obtain Major power factor with the .40 S&W cartridge. For .40 S&W use, you will need specially-made guns and magazines, as these bullets cannot be seated within the ordinary range of .40 S&W cartridge overall length. But you guys probably knew that, since so many of you shoot competitively. You may also find these bullets useful for heavy 10mm loads. This being a 10mm forum, you may even find some data from someone who has worked with these bullets before (hint hint). Terms: 1) Price is $40/box of 500 (8¢/bullet), plus shipping (Dial calipers not included). 2) Payment by USPS money order, or cash if face-to-face. Cashier's check is acceptable, if you're willing to wait 10 business days for the check to clear. 3) There will be a wait of up to 5 business days, from when I receive the money order to when I ship. I will PM you when I ship, and have the shipper email you to confirm shipment as well (if applicable). 4) Face-to-face is possible, if you are in the Albuquerque, NM area. 5) Shipping method is purchaser's choice, with all costs paid by the purchaser. Because these are bullets only, not loaded ammunition, USPS Priority Mail is your most cost-effective option. See note about rates below. Reply here, email, or PM me with your ZIP code for an exact shipping quote, if not using Priority Mail. 6) It is the buyer's responsibility to know about any goofy state/local laws restricting shipment of reloading supplies. I'm not aware of any such restrictions on bullets, but you should be. No international shipping - US only. 7) No returns accepted. Be sure you want it.
  15. Alliant's 10mm data stops at 180 gr. A bit annoying, when 200 gr. is hardly an exotic bullet weight for 10mm. You chose wisely. Blue Dot works great for heavier bullets in 10mm. I've been loading some super-heavy 220 gr. plated bullets in 10mm using Blue Dot, with good results. Most reloading manuals, fortunately, address a wider variety of loads. Which one do you have? Almost all of them will have some 200 gr. jacketed bullet data for Blue Dot.
  16. I took my 1066 to my tame gunsmith, but he didn't want to touch it for a firing pin swap. Said it looked like he would have to remove the whole safety assembly, and he didn't have the time today. It's OK, because he works on stuff for me for free (well, for the cost of semi-weekly baked goods deliveries, actually, long story) and had just put in a mid-rib bead on a shotgun for me. Looking around just now, I found the following thread from 2004 detailing how to clean out the firing pin channel. I haven't tried it yet, but I assume that it would also be a way to swap out the firing pin spring, as it involves removing the firing pin: S&W 1006 Firing Pin/Channel Cleaning Instructions I've been wondering whether those nylon rotors in the slide will eventually wear out, rendering the pistol inoperative.
  17. Bear Creek bullets are just fine. I used them from 2003-2006 to reload .40 S&W and .45 ACP, shooting several thousand through three guns. Never had a single problem with the bullets. Leading was slight to nonexistent. I don't know who "many" are, but they are full of it with regard to Bear Creek's moly-coated bullets. I did not get odd deposits, nor were my guns any harder to clean. There was no "down" side to molybdenum disulfide as a bullet lube in handgun reloading. I only stopped using Bear Creek bullets because I moved, and could no longer buy them for a price I liked due to shipping. It would be nice to get ANY cast lead bullet today for what I paid then, which was around 4.5¢/bullet. For the past few years, I've used locally-cast bullets with conventional lubrication, or the occasional batch of moly-coated bullets when I could get them cheaply. The Lee FCD for rifle and the Lee FCD for pistol are completely different items. The pistol FCD has a sizing ring at the base that attempts to "iron out" any bulges in your brass. The rifle FCD does not have that ring. It simply crimps the case mouth into the cannelure (if present) or right into the jacket. I use a Lee FCD for reloading .223 Rem, to prevent bullet setback in my autoloaders. The pistol FCD's sizing ring is not that useful, in my experience. I found it ineffective in "ironing out" Glock bulge in my 10mm brass. I keep using the FCD simply because I like to taper crimp in a separate step. A Lee FCD should not be sizing your bullets. If it does, either your FCD is defective, or you have it adjusted wrong. I suppose using way, way too much crimp *could* put the squeeze on your bullets. Maybe. But even that is hard to imagine, and should generate so much resistance that you would notice it. To verify the above, I just pulled a 10mm reload that somehow got an upside-down primer. The 170 gr. cast lead bullet was exactly the same diameter when it came out as it was when it went in: 0.401".
  18. I don't know about the 200 gr. offering, but I just ordered 1000 of Missouri Bullet Co.'s 180 gr. .401 cast bullet (item IDP #5). I will use them to load both .40 S&W and 10mm. I reload a lot, so 1000 bullets is not going to last all that long. I was actually completely out of bullets for .40 S&W, so my shipment can hardly arrive soon enough. Missouri Bullet was simply the best deal I could find. Together with a discount code, I'm only paying 8.5¢/bullet, shipping included. That's an outstanding deal today. I also considered ordering a similar Lasercast bullet from Oregon Trail. But they were more expensive (ca. 11¢/bullet) and I was not sure that the additional hardness was necessary. Missouri Bullet Co.'s product is 18 BHN, compared to the Lasercast's 24 BHN. The proof will be in the reloading, but I decided that 18 BHN was enough. update: My order shipped about an hour ago. They're fast! update2: WTF, I guess they were TOO fast. I received my order today, and so far I've found a mixture of 180 gr. truncated cone and 155 gr. semiwadcutters in the first box of 500 bullets. The ratio is roughly 10% SWCs so far (23 out of about half the box). It gets worse. I counted both boxes, and here's what I found: First box I opened: 301 of the bullets I ordered, 43 of the SWC's I did not order. Second box I opened: 499 of the bullets I ordered. So at best, I got 800 out of 1000 bullets I paid for. I've emailed MBC to ask them to send the remainder. Will post here when I get a resolution. update3: I just got an email stating they had sent out the missing bullets. Man are they quick!
  19. I just got off the phone with Wolff. They confirmed that those firing pin springs indeed are "extra power," like the recoil springs they were supplied with. That's sort of a hidden bonus of buying from Wolff: you always get a replacement firing pin spring. I'm not sure why they invariably include them with recoil springs, but that's how they do business. I don't know that I "needed" more powerful firing pin springs, but it probably wouldn't hurt to install them. I actually had a firing pin spring break on another pistol (Springfield 1911), but didn't find out for quite some time. The firing pin spring is an important part of the gun's safety mechanism, so I think I will have my friendly neighborhood gunsmith do the swap.
  20. FWIW, I swapped out the stock recoil springs (17 or 18 lb. if I recall correctly) in my S&W 1006 and 1066. I replaced them with Wolff extra-power, 22 lb. recoil springs. Both pistols still work great with my 10mm reloads. I was fairly sure they would, because a 22 lb. spring also worked for my Glock 20. I wanted heavier springs for the 10xx pistols as well, because I want them to last a long, long time. I feed the 10xx's some fairly heavy loads, a 220 gr. bullet @ ~1050 ft/s. With the new recoil springs, recoil seems less harsh, and stress on the gun should be reduced. I still have the firing pin springs, which Wolff always includes with recoil spring purchaes. I'm not sure whether I need to install those. Wolff provides no real guidance that I can find. Supposedly, the firing pin springs are extra-power, just like the recoil springs they came with. Is there any possible downside to having a beefier firing pin spring?
  21. The performance obtained by commercial ammo manufacturers can seem nothing short of magical. They use powders, and blends of powders, not available on the commercial reloading market, and also invest lots of time and effort in developing their loads. I wouldn't worry about matching them, either in velocity or cleanliness. You can't. What you described in your second paragraph is sometimes termed "bullet setback." It can happen even with commercial ammo. I found it to be a problem with repeated re-chamberings - sometimes only 2 or 3 times! - of the really cheap stuff, like CCI Blazer (aluminum case) .40 S&W. Not so much with my reloads, but I don't re-chamber them very often. Don't go too nuts with crimp. Too much can cause keyholing, or at least it did for me with some 10mm loads.
  22. While this is nearly a year-old thread, I see no reason to repeat myself repeatedly. I just ordered a pair of Wolff 22 lb. recoil springs for my S&W 1006 and 1066. As far as I know, no one but Wolff even makes such springs. I must have recalled this thread subconsciously, because I somehow had a feeling that the 24 lb. spring for the 1006 wouldn't work. I also recalled that the 22 lb. spring worked fine in my Glock 20, at least with some of my reloads, so I bought the 22 lb. flavor for both pistols. The reason I finally got around to buying the stronger springs is that I've been shooting the 10xx pistols lots more lately. They digest my heavy 10mm reloads happily, unlike the Glock 20. But I don't want to wear them out prematurely, thus the stronger springs. Will post again once I've shot some of my heavy 10mm with the new springs. Oops, knew I forgot something. Another reason I thought a stronger recoil spring might be indicated: most of my brass had a lot of soot on the outside, suggesting that the breech may have been unlocking too early in the firing cycle.
  23. I finally got a few bucks together and bought a Wolff guide rod and 22 lb. extra-power spring for my Glock 20. Not only did it not solve the misfeed problem with the 220 gr. plated bullets, it made the problem far worse. I had a misfeed of the type previously pictured - or worse, with the slide hardly opening at all - with nearly every shot. It was a real chore to fire off an entire magazine. At the same time, the 22 lb. spring was great for use with my lighter reloads, using a 170 gr. bullet, with a muzzle velocity of 1100-1200 ft/s. Those loads worked fine, and the heavier spring seemed to reduce recoil slightly. I think the stiffer spring was a really good idea for these loads. From this I conclude that I am simply not loading the 220 gr. bullets hot enough. Not enough energy was being developed to cycle the slide with the original 17 lb. spring. So I need either an extra-light spring, or hotter loads. I have some room to grow with the Blue Dot loads so that's the next step. Might try a lighter spring as well. Nope, that wasn't it either. I loaded hotter, with up to 9.2 gr. Blue Dot. I've reached the point of diminishing returns. Velocity only climbed to slightly over 1100 ft/s, vs. about 1050 ft/s with 8.6 gr. Blue Dot. These loads functioned just the same as the weaker ones - tons of misfeeds. Meanwhile, the same loads work just fine in my S&W 1006. I give up. From now on, it's only cast lead for my Glock 20, using the Lone Wolf barrel.
  24. Holy moley. Would you mind listing all of them? I'm genuinely curious - I've never known anyone who was THAT deep into reloading!
  25. No worries. Blue Dot meters well in both of my powder measures. One measure is a Hornady Lock-n-Load, with the case-activated powder drop and micrometer metering insert. The other is an RCBS Uniflow with standard rotor & inserts. Either will drop Blue Dot consistently within a range of 0.4 gr. at worst (that is, 0.2 gr. above or below the "desired" charge). Usually, the drop-to-drop variation is 0.1 gr. or less. Neither of these measures is a Dillon of course...but their design principles are very similar, so I would be really surprised if you got different results. Unique meters like junk in both measures. According to Hornady, they've known for a while that Unique tends to bridge & clump in their Lock-n-Load dispenser. I guess that's why I would get practically no Unique in some drops, then 0.5 grain extra in other drops! Results were similarly disappointing with the Uniflow. I've only used Red Dot to reload 12 gage shotgun, never pistol cartridges, so I can't say how it meters. Another flake powder that doesn't meter worth a darn: IMR 800-X. Some 10mm reloaders swear by it, and it does give good velocities without too much pressure, but you'll have to hand-weigh every drop. I found it to be too much hassle (just like Unique) and disposed of the remainder of my 1 lb. can by loading shotgun shells (it also metered poorly in my MEC 600 Jr., throwing across a range of at least 2.5 gr.). So the moral of the story is: not all flake powders are alike! Some flake powders meter well, some meter poorly. This why you ask questions, and only buy a 1 lb. can to start with. Of course, this being the Internet, I'm sure someone will be along shortly to say Unique and 800X meter just fine in their dispensers.
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