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  1. Personally my rifles are worth more then having questionable brass being right under my nose. If you do not know the exact heritage of the brass leave it lay, so many slob shooters leave brass on the range cause they know it is on the last reload........
  2. Guys and Gals....you will never ever be able to duplicate factory loads from a purely component aspect. They use NON CANISTER GRADES OF POWDERS! Translated you can not buy it, so it strictly is a NON ISSUE cause you can not buy them. You do not waltz into Sportsmans Warehouse and buy a can of Fed Gold Medal Match 308 powder! Factories buy powder in huge lots blended to their specs! Reloading takes time and effort! There are so many combo's out there to come up with accurate 308 ammo that chasing some fairy load is fruitless!
  3. Did you call Hornady? Consult the Alliant website?
  4. Might want to keep the young one away for presses with his Nuk! Kids stick stuff in their mouths and your reloading bench is covered with by products of combustion....ie lead!
  5. Your first step is buying the best reference book or what I call Reloading for Dummies or The ABC's of Reloading from Krause Publications. Read it cover to cover, and then read it again while taking notes! Look for a mentor at your local club, range, or purveyor of supplies! Another more technical book, is Handloading for Competition by Glen Zediker. There are several great reloading manuals of the real kind not the freebee ones! Freebee manuals are good for cross referencing data, at times. For meaty manuals a person can not go wrong with the Lyman48th, Hornady, and Sierra. One must always look up loads when you compare/cross-reference data. Especially in larger calibers as some data might be using different brass from yours. Case in point before the Hodgdon website upgrade they Hodgdon used WW brass to work up loads with, whereas Sierra used Fed cases in their 308 Winchester loading information. Now, Hodgdon does not list what brass the loads were worked up in. Press - Single Stage or Turret presses are the best way to learn before advancing to any kind of progressive press. You will always have need for a single stage press. Redding and RCBS are good sources of all kinds of presses. RCBS Rockchucker Supreme for a single stage and Redding T7 for a turret press are basically the gold standard for the two different types. Dies - I like Redding Dies, and I would get the carbide expander ball upgrade for bottle neck rifle cases. Dillon makes carbide rifle sizer dies, but you still need to use case lube and make sure you lube the inside of the case neck, too. I would just stick with regular dies for rifle cartridges. Dillon makes die sets specifically for their press so to speak, meaning that it does not come with a case mouth belling die; Redding makes a set of dies for progressive presses, too. I like Forster competition seaters, and they can be had as an individual item. Dies are pretty much threaded universally, except for Lyman 310 dies, and Dillon dies for the Square Deal B. Accuracy nuts will use hand dies, and they require an arbor press be used. Shell holders (if the die set doesn't have them like Lee) or the appropriate shell plate for the progressive press. Remember that many shell holders work for more then one cartridge. I would do some home work, especially if you get a Dillon. Some cartridge conversions might only require you to get powder funnel for the new cartridge. A tumbler will be a good investment, as clean cases will not harm you dies. There are vibratory and rotary tumblers out there. I like corn cob media treated with some Iosso case polish. You can get walnut in bulk at Petco or Pet Smart. Bulk corn cob grit is a great way to reduce the cost of commercially supplied media, because you pay through the nose for the treated media from other vendors. MTM makes great loading block tray that handles most cartridges. Case Lube is great for both conventional dies, and to treat your brass used in a progressive press even with carbide dies. That extra lubricity makes the cycling of the press a tad slicker! Dillon spray lube works well for shake and bake application. I like Imperial Die Wax for rifle cartridges when FL sizing. Case Neck Brush to clean bottleneck rifle cases Dial Calipers Case Trimmer (Lee works, but Possum Hollow is better, Wilson makes the best hand powered Lathe trimmer, and Giraud is the best powered Trimmer) Deburring/Chamfering Tool Primer Pocket Cleaner and uniformer Primer Flip Tray is needed for loading pick up tubes for some primer systems like the Dillon. Priming Tool (I like the RCBS (now even better with universal shell holder, but Sinclair makes the best) Powder Scale - remember that is always better to have a mechanical scale as a back up to any electronic scale. Powder Funnel kit with drop tubes especially if you intend to use powders like Varget. Powder Trickler (used to tweak powder charges) Powder Measure (nice for faster powder charges it does require a bit of learning curve to get consistent powder charges sort of rhythm thing) standard with progressive presses, but the RCBS Uniflow is nice! Redding makes a better one, and Harrell is the gold standard! Hammer Type Bullet Puller (for taking down the boo boo's) Ammo boxes and labels A notebook for recording your results! Saves covering the same ground twice! A chronograph is great when working up loads, but is more a luxury in the beginning.
  6. You can shoot moly, but you can not swap between naked and coated ammo in the same session. Some will advise once a bbl has seen moly you stick with it! Moly can be removed but geez why even go down that path with factory ammo? Some reloaders still use it, but for factory ammo it makes no sense to me at all!
  7. Safety is JOB #1 Copy Cat reloading is STUPID ie trolling for someone's supposed load duplication of a factory load! And frankly quite dangerous If you do not have the time and inclination to reload and develop loads then do not do it! Reloading takes time and effort on your part! You can not access the powder used to make factory ammo! What you need to do is skip using Federal Brass it sucks! Get some Winny or Lapua brass get some Varget and then work up a load using the Hodgdon data for the 168 OTM. You chrono some FGM for parameters of velocity if you are intent of duplicating the ballistics of FGM in your stick!
  8. The max load with Varget is 27.5gr with 55 or 50gr bullet....it is a compressed load. Heck you can stick 28grs in a case with 40gr bullet.. The hard part is that you need a drop tube to get that much powder in a case........
  9. Try working load up with CCI BR2 primers, might get even better.....dump the Federal brass for some WW Nosler or Lapua.....for better case life....
  10. This is a safety violation of the very premise of reloading! You got to work up your loads for you gun! COPY CAT RELOADING IS FOOLISH! Your are lucky that you are still with us! There are no free lunches with reloading! Except for lazy reloaders, they get into all kinds of trouble!
  11. About the only real options in resizing brass is to do a couple of things. #1 you get a RCBS Precision Mic or similar tool to measure your chamber. Then set up the FL die to bump the shoulder about 2-3 thousandths back. This will help with some with decreasing the work hardening of the brass. #2 you can adjust the neck tension using a Redding Type S die or similar offering from Forster or RCBS to control the amount of neck tension
  12. mnhome


    Your first stuck case will not be your last. Hornday One Shot lube sucks! Now you know why! Imperial Die Wax works great! Dillon Spray lube is okay, but you have to let it set up, ie let the carrier evaporate..... There are carbide sizer dies for rifle rounds from Dillon, and they do require lube to use plus they are expensive Where did the brass come from? A suspsect source, ie was shot in sloppy chambered mg, would mean a fellow needs to use a use a small base die! Before use ........ Redding Deluxe Sets (three dies FL, Neck, and Seater) are great for loading for bolt guns. Redding Standard Die Sets(two dies FL and seater) are great for auto loaders except Browning BAR.....Need small base sizer for them... Redding has carbide expander ball replacements to help with sizing operations.
  13. Midway has two vendors one for powder (which is Powder Valley Inc) and an other for primers. UPS haz mat shipper contracts have restrictions on shipping stuff together ie Primers and Powder or whether stuff can be combined. The wt limit for haz mat is 70 #. I feel your contempt for Midway is unwarranted.
  14. Janitor You have Greg Sullivan in MN, and he and his crew are great instructors!
  15. I have loaded countless 30-06/308/223 round for use in semi auto guns! I mean thousands! I have never crimped anything but 55gr 223 blasting ammo! Never had a problem. That is from 33 yrs of reloading! Crimping for sake of crimping is useless! Now, I can see the need for crimping say a tube fed magazine. Or, in using heavy recoiling handgun rounds. But, for precision rifle use there is no need. Yeah you NOOB's need to pay attention to load specs. But, being so cheap a$$ to not get fullsize manuals speaks volumes of your inability to be prepared to reload properly. There are way too many NOOB's out there because of the increased cost of factory ammo. They come across as fairly off the wall! I see it every day! I could say that some of the posters do not know their proverbial ass from a hole in the ground! No one is perfect that is for sure! Geez let us review a few things! #1 I know one that fireforms their cases with loads of fast pistol powders and charge of cream of wheat corked by TP. This is for factory guns and standard chambers. How freaking wasteful is that? Now, if I have custom gun with non standard cartridge that might be a possibility. #2 I work up loads with purpose following load data from the specifics from the mfg and I cross reference with other sources. #3 I have never ever heard of trying to interpolate the composition of a powder by inferring the # to the number it is marketed as. Now, if you want to figure out the trade names of drugs Like say Premarin now that can be inferred, as Pregnant Mare's Urine or Lasix, as Lasts Six Hours! TJ and BB need a real world check on things! :nana:
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