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laidlerj

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  1. I know this has been gone over a bunch of times in the past, but I wanted to put it out to the members again to get the most up-to-date opinions. I'm seriously thinking about getting a 1911-style 10mm pistol. I have a Glock 20 and a S&W 1006 but I want to get another 10mm (yeah, I know, I'm crazy - I know). I've heard some bad news (on this forum and others) about the EAA Witness in 10mm, so I'm shying away from that one; I looked at the Nighthawk, but I'm not made of money. That leaves the Kimber and the Dan Wesson as current production 10mm pistols that I can find (and I've only seen one Dan Wesson, and not for long). Here's what I'd like to hear: [1] What current production 10mm pistols do people recommend and why? [2] What about the Colt Delta? Is it still in production? Is it a good 10mm pistol (I can find them used pretty easily)? Thanks in advance for everyone who offers to share their experience. Jim
  2. For me, the 10mm has two attractions - one, of course, is that it is a powerful and versatile auto pistol cartridge - and one of the few auto pistol cartridges that you can hunt with. But I have to admit that what got me to buy my first 10mm (a Glock 20) was the novelty. But maybe "novelty" isn't the right word, because if I just wanted something that few people had, I'd could have gotten a 357 maximum or a 9mm Federal. What I really like about the 10mm is that it works very well AND it isn't something that you find all over the line at the pistol range. THAT'S an uncommon combination. There are plenty of effective cartridges (for a variety of uses) and there are LOTS of cartridges you don't see every day, but not too many that are BOTH. Jim
  3. I can't add anything about the EAA pistols that hasn't already been said. I've got both a Glock 20 and a S&W 1006 - love 'em both, although the Glock worries me with its partially unsupported chamber (I reload). The S&W 1006 has been absolutely reliable (as has the Glock), is DA/SA, has a fully supported chamber and, if you run out of ammunition in a gunfight (9-round magazine vs the 15-round Glock 20), can be used effectively as a club (i.e. it's heavy and solid). From what I've seen on the gun sites, you'll spend a bit more on a 1006 (or other S&W 10mm auto) than on an EAA 10mm and you can't (obviously) get a new one. That said, if you can find one (and they're not all that rare), you won't be disappointed. I got a S&W 4506 back when they were new (yes, I'm that old) and just a few years ago got the 1006 - they make a lovely matched set. Jim
  4. I carry a variety of pistols when I'm out and about, largely depending on the weather and what I can conceal. When I'm able, I carry a S&W 1006 in a Galco shoulder holster, but that requires a bulky jacket to hide. My other choice for cold-weather wear is my Glock 20. The S&W is heavier and has a lower magazine capacity (9 vs 15), but I like the fact that it is tougher than nails and can handle the full-house 10mm rounds (Double-Tap) without bulging out the case at the bottom. The Glock carries more rounds, but if I can't get the situation under control with 27 rounds of 10mm (I carry two extra mags), I probably need more than just a pistol (or I need to aim more carefully). In the warmer months, I carry a Glock 27 (.40 S&W) or Ruger LCP. Having recently purchased a Ruger LC9, I expect to be carrying that whenever I don't need the extra-small profile of the LCP. Jim
  5. I've got: Colt Mustang - a nice pistol, but heavy for its size and a bit slow to get into action (draw, thumb hammer back, pull trigger) unless you like carrying a pocket pistol cocked and locked. Ruger LCP - much lighter than the Mustang (of course) and very smooth (if long) DA pull. No safety, but I wouldn't use one. The sights are pretty much as bad as the Mustang's, but I don't plan on using it except when I'm close enough that sights are optional. Ruger LC9 - (yes, I KNOW it's not a .380) about the size of the Walther PPK but loads lighter (plastic frame), aggressively checkered grip and - BONUS! - fires the 9mm. Surprisingly - given its light weight - the LC9 doesn't recoil as hard as the Mustang even though it fires a (somewhat) more powerful round. I've put the Mustang away for now (it's a collector's piece, I guess) and I carry the LCP for "formal" occasions (when I don't want to scare the liberals) and the LC9 for all other occasions when I'm not wearing clothes bulky enough to hide my "real" concealed-carry gun (Glock 20). Jim
  6. Absolutely! I've got both (1006 and 4506) and they are identical in outside dimensions (the only difference visible from the outside is the size of the hole at the muzzle). I use the same holsters with each of them - a great savings, since not too many companies make holster for EITHER pistol any more. Jim
  7. From what I've heard, the FBI - for whom S&W made the 1006 in the first place (the 4506 was built on the same frame and is WAY more durable than it needs to be for the .45 ACP) - felt that it had too much recoil for some of its *ahem* more "petite" agents and had them make a "10mm lite" cartridge. S&W figured out they could put the reduced amount of powder in a shorter case and make it fit into a smaller grip frame and voila! the .40 S&W was born. The smaller grip frame of the .40 S&W pistols is also easier for the more "petite" agents to hold. Unfortunately, my bitter experience has shown me that some of these more "petite" FBI agents (and their sisters - and a few brothers - in other law-enforcement agencies) are ALSO having trouble with the .40 S&W (although they CAN get their hands around the grip to the trigger). Both rounds (10mm and .40 S&W) are high-pressure rounds and the recoil is a lot "sharper" than some people can tolerate. In an effort to mitigate the recoil, they tend to "limp-wrist" the pistol and the result is a stove-pipe jam (especially in the Glocks, for some reason). Personally, I love the hell out of my 1006 (and my 4506) and I think it has a lighter recoil than my Glock 27 (in .40 S&W); it also weighs twice what my Glock 27 does. It's durable enough to handle anything I've thrown at it, doesn't object to cast bullets (unlike my Glock 20) and if you run out of ammunition before the problem is solved, you can use it as a highly effective club. Jim
  8. I've been reloading for over 25 years and I still do it one step at a time. I suppose if I was a high-volume shooter - like some of the active competitive shooters - I'd get a multi-stage press (or a sponsor), but I just shoot for recreation. I have an RCBS press and I've used Hornady, Redding and Lee dies in it without a problem. My only concern about the Lee dies is that they use aluminum seater plugs. I'm a bit clumsy and prone to cross-threading, so I worry about the aluminum getting stripped. Of course, if I do cross-thread the plug, it won't damage the die body, so it will be easier (and cheaper) to replace the plug. The Lee "bulge buster" kit and their user-friendly factory crimp dies are a serious plus, but so far I've only gotten Lee dies in .380 auto (during the post-election ammunition shortage). No matter which dies you get, tungsten carbide (or titanium nitride) dies are worth the extra money unless you really get off on lubricating the cases - and then wiping off the lubricant (doesn't do anything for me, but whatever floats your boat). Good luck reloading! Jim
  9. If you're reloading for a Glock, you'll probably want to get either the Redding G-RX die or the re-sizing set from Lee. I haven't used the Lee set (I have all Redding and RCBS dies, so it wouldn't work), but the G-RX "irons out" the little bulge in 10mm cases left by the partially unsupported chamber in my Glock 20. I didn't notice the bulges (called "smilies" if they're large enough) until I used the G-RX, since my carbide sizing die didn't come down far enough to reach them. I suspect that my Glock 20 has a tighter chamber than some, but I could still see the shiny "smile" when the G-RX pushed them back into shape. [Note: brass fired through my S&W 1006 doesn't have the same bulge.] As for the type of dies, I have only one word: carbide. As a rifle reloader, I'm sure you're used to lubricating your cases before resizing - with carbide dies, you don't have to (although you DO have to lubricate them before they go through the G-RX). I also prefer to get a separate crimping die, but I've also done the same with the seater-crimper by running the seater plug in far enough that it will seat without crimping and then coming back in a separate step (with the same die and the seater plug run out) to crimp. I'm not trying to set speed records with my 10mm, so I find Blue Dot to be adequate for my needs; I also use it in a couple of other pistols I have, so it's a nice compromise between having all the powders I need and not having too much powder in the workshop. If you're looking for maximum performance, check out the reloading forum in this section. Personally, I don't like running max-power loads through my Glock 20 because I worry about the partially unsupported chamber. I leave those for my S&W 1006, which seems to shrug off everything I throw at it (it also seems to weigh at least twice what the Glock does). Well, that's enough from me - good luck with your reloading! Jim
  10. Thanks for the tip, Greg! In the meanwhile, one of the M1 Garand shooters at my gun club has offered to show me his rifle with variable gas plug at our next shoot. From what he says, it allows the M1 (and there's one for the M1A, too) to shoot just about any ammunition, but you have to "dial it in" for each load. I'll have to wait and see how much of a hassle the adjustment is. Jim
  11. I regularly carry a S&W 1006 - I use either a Galco Jackass shoulder rig (originally purchased when I bought my S&W 4506 new) or a Bianchi Accumold paddle holster (Mod 7500, Bianchi part no. 18824 [R-handed]). The Galco shoulder rig holds the pistol horizontally, so it tends to stick out a bit in the back. You either need to wear a loose jacket (or a down/fiberfill coat) or be prepared to explain the "growth" sticking out of your back. This may be less of a problem with a 1076, since it should be about 3/4" shorter than my 1006. I tried the Bianchi X15 vertical shoulder holster (which I don't like very much), but the 1006 (and 4506) are just too big to fit, even though Bianchi lists the X15 as compatible with the 1006. The Bianchi paddle holster wouldn't have been my first choice, but there aren't a lot of choices for a 1006. It works and fits OK, I just don't like the material too well. No matter how you carry the 1006, it's heavy. When I carry it on my belt, I never forget that I'm "packing" - the Galco shoulder rig is - to me - more comfortable. Concealability on the belt is "iffy" - the pistol is too big for its bulge to be mistaken for a cellphone or Blackberry. If you're a big guy (I'm not), and wear a loose jacket, it probably won't be noticed, but on me I can hardly claim to be carrying concealed, especially if I'm carrying it on my belt. OK, probably more information than you wanted. Jim
  12. Thanks, everyone! I had a fellow down at my gun club show me the bent operating rod from his M1 Garand that he attributes to overly "warm" reloads. I think I'll start out reloading for the AR15 and M1A and do a little more thinking about reloading for my M1 Garand - it's a veteran and deserves to be fed carefully. Anyone here ever heard of a "variable" gas plug for the Garand? One of the guys at the gun club mentioned it in one of those "heard from a friend who knew a guy who...." stories. Thanks again! Jim
  13. I've made them using Speer's shot capsules, but those don't come in 10mm/.40 cal. CCI makes shot shells in pistol calibers, but not in 10 mm (although they DO make them in 40 S&W). I've fired CCiI's shot shells in 45 ACP and they don't cycle the action - even worse, they sometimes cycle it just enough to leave you with a stove-pipe jam. NOT what I want in a "snake-too-close-to-ignore" situation. Jim
  14. I've done a lot of reloading for handguns and bolt/lever action rifles and I'm just now starting to think about reloading for my AR-15, M-1 carbine, M1 Garand and M1A. For much of my shooting life, I've heard dire warnings about how certain powders don't "work and play well" with gas-operated autoloaders. Some wise gentlemen have even told me that reloading for these rifles is stupid and dangerous. So, I'd like to ask the accumulated wisdom on this forum what powders are safe and effective in each of these rifles: the AR-15, the M1 carbine, the M1 Garand and the M1A. Also, if you've heard of (or, God forbid, experienced) any powders that are "bad" for these rifles, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks, Jim
  15. Interesting. I've got a Glock 20 as well, serial number starting with BSF, that I've shot a fair number of factory loads through - more than 100 and less than 1,000. I got it used about 10 years ago, so I don't know how many rounds were fired through it before I got it (based on the pristine quality when I got it, probably not too many). Anyway, after reading this thread, I put my Glock under the microscope and flexed it to see if it had any cracks. No cracks - not even any suspicious mold lines. I wonder if everyone who had cracks in their Glock 20's would be willing to post the first three letters of their serial number - maybe we could find a block of numbers that were a problem. That way, people could be proactive in getting their pistols checked AND could avoid that block of serial numbers when buying used. Just a thought. Jim
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