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  1. Here's a guide: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?1606-AR15-LUBE-POINTS
  2. Yes, In November you could find many quality lowers for $80 or less. A few coworkers have bought some aero-precision lowers for $200 ea recently. In this market, that's the going rate for a stripped lower. I've seen people hawking billet ones for $350 and higher. Complete lowers were going for ~$500+ last time I looked. So yes, you got screwed along with everyone else who's bought a lower in the last 3 months.
  3. What about a Larue OBR/PredatAR/PredatOBR 7.62. I think they run ~$2400-$3k. I've thought about dipping my toe in the "build an AR-10" water, but I spent a slow day at work researching forums and couldn't find a reliable guide for what parts are compatible or where to get things, so I decided against it. If you want reliable, get a KAC SR-25. they run about $4500-4800 though. I'm not up to date on the Larue rifle reviews, but I know Larue generally puts out good stuff. PWS, LMT, Bushmaster, POF and several others offer AR-10s. Some internet research will find quite a few other manufacturers offering AR-10s. Can I ask why you want an AR-10? If you want something with more energy for hunting or long range shooting, you could think about a 6.8 SPC2 or a .300 AAC Blackout. Both of these calibers are generally compatible with 5.56 hardware. 6.8 requires it's own BCG, barrel and mags [you can use 5.56 mags, but can only load them to 65% or so]; while .300 AAC BLK only needs a new barrel because it uses 5.56 cases.
  4. Primary Arms' sights are a good "noname" option. They are in the same customer service category as Vortex. The only thing about the Strikefire is the power button is on the left side and easy to hit when casing the rifle. It would be nice if they moved it, otherwise it's gtg. I say a PA or Vortex optic because on the off chance that you have an issue with it, either of these companies will take care of you. If you really are a LE/security guard or want something to depend on, get an aimpoint. The battery life is long enough that you can turn it on every morning/leave it on indefinitely and set a reminder on your phone or something to change the battery every year/6 months, etc.
  5. Me and some coworkers have gotten a few aero-precision lowers in. We purchased 4 about a month ago and my coworker got a couple more last week. Running about $200/ea right now, though. Website says OOS, but might want to call them & watch the site http://aeroprecisionusa.com/shop/ar15-stripped-lower-receiver FWIW, they are quite nice, and I'd buy another one if I was in the market.
  6. I replaced my rail (MIT12 to Larue 11") and it really shouldn't be that hard. To replace the handguard with a FF, you end up totally rebuilding the upper, but that's only marginally harder than replacing disk brakes because it involves a torque wrench. I have the action blocks from amazon that someone mentioned above, and they are nice; however the upper block isn't a clamshell type, so you can only clamp the upper in a vise right-side up. It's nice to be able to flip it over to locate the gas block so you aren't working upside down. This brings me to my next point; It looks like the M&P OR gas block is held with set screws instead of pinned into the barrel. It's common that the factory uses red (permanent) loctite on the screws so the GB doesn't come lose. Red loctite melts at 450-500F, which means you might need a torch to heat the GB to melt the loctite. FYI: there's a shoulder on the barrel for the handguard cap. When you re-install the gas block, it doesn't go right up to the shoulder. You should take the handguard cap that you don't need anymore and cut it in half to use as a shim for locating the GB. There's probably a dimple in the barrel, but the gb and barrel fit tight enough that you can't use it as a locating feature. If you mislocate the GB, your rifle will FTF or short stroke and there will be brownish residue on your rail from all the gas leaking past the GB. I have a BCM upper with a low pro gb that I had to remove to switch rails. I used a whole propane can trying to melt the GB and threw my barreled upper in the oven at 475 for an hour, then I rounded out one of the set screws with my crappy craftsman allen wrenches. So, I had to drill out the screws and almost junked my barrel in the process. So, moral of the story is: get some quality (close tolerance) allen wrenches and try to break the set screws loose. If they don't budge, get one of these: They're great rails and noone will think less of you.
  7. Yes, I have a Larue 11" rail and it covers my mid-length gas block. I started with a MI T-12 rail in FDE, but I replaced it because it was too large for me to comfortably hold. FYI; the MI T handguards are round and about the same diameter as a pop can or can of 3M Desk & Office Cleaner (it's on my desk). The Larue, and maybe the DD rails, are narrower than they are tall, so they are eaiser to hold, for me anyway. However, the one thing I don't like about the Larue rails are the collar. Now I see the value of a continuous top rail because I have an eotech xps and a magnifier on a Larue mount (I didn't want one of the rotational or twist mounts, so I bought a flip that was reviewed as being better than sloppy junk; also happens that I'm very happy with the mount.) and my upper receiver rail is pretty crowded. If I had a DD or any other foreend that gave me a continuous top rail I could move my eotech fwd a bit and reclaim some real estate.
  8. I like the style of that Lancer and the VTAC & new geisselle handguards. I've already spent money on a larue rail last year and my wallet made me order a KAC LPR, which is getting delivered tomorrow & of course I'll have to get an optic and probably upgrade the grip.You see what kinds of horrible things the BRD does to your life... If you're a hunter and you reload, you might want to look at .300 AAC blackout. It's basically a 5.56 without the cartridge neck. It's very good for hunting at <300 yds and you can use your 5.56 mags and bolt/bcg-all you need is a .300 AAC BLK barrel. 6.8 SPC is a good hunting cartridge also, but you need a whole new upper and mags for it.
  9. Here's a Vortex Strikefire on a BCM 16" with an MI T-12 rail; I've upgraded to an Eotech xps3-2 and a vortex magnifier on a larue mount:
  10. You could get a 3x or 5x magnifier, but the 3x's aren't quite enough for 100 yds and the 5x's can have very limited eye relief and eye boxes. Why not get a 1-x type scope? They would give you some magnification with probably better ergonomics and lighter than an M2 and magnifier, though the scopes over 4x (1-5 and higher) get expensive very quickly because the optical engineering required goes up exponentially. As for return to zero mount, I vote Bobro or ADM.
  11. Look at a Vortex vmx3 magnifier. The reviews say it's nearly as good as the eotech or aimpoint 3x's, but it's only about $120. I have a vmx3 in a larue flip mount and it's great. I also had a vortex strikefire that was very nice, but I sold it for an eotech because I don't like the tube RDS'.
  12. Over 9k rounds!? You might want to get your barrel and chamber checked between mag changes.
  13. Try a UBR. I could probably sharpen it and cut down a tree if I had to... That stock is extremely solid.
  14. OP and gents: This is good advice. If you may trust your life to a DPMS, buy the rifle and then, at a minimum you should replace the BCG with one that has a properly staked gas key; and has been MPI tested, shot peened and test fired. I would like to remind everyone that the M4/M16 rifle was designed as a fighting rifle and many of the points mentioned in "the chart" are features specified by the military so that every rifle will be reliable for 1000's of rounds. I prefer a 1:7 barrel, but 1:7, 1:8 or 1:9 is up to personal preference, and commercial or mil buffer tube is not a huge problem either. I also like FA BCG's but mine will never go FA... DPMS and RRA might have extra "features" beyond the chart, but the chart is not meant to illustrate who has the most bells and whistles or fanciest quad rail; The chart is measure of how well various manufacturers meet the requirements of the M4 TDP. One final point: Polymer lowers are never a good idea, IMO. If it could be done well, Glock would have started putting them out years ago.
  15. I've read good things about Vortex optics on here, m4carbine.net and the highroad. I have a Vortex Strikefire on order. I agree with the theme of the advice already conveyed; if you've got the money or the need, an EOtech / ACOG would be 1st choice. If you have a budget or your life's not on the line, you can look into Vortex, Primary Arms, and NCstar. They all make "budget" / "clone" AR optics that have gotten varying degrees of positive reviews on the interweb forums. Cabelas also has some fixed power scopes for ARs that have good reviews on their website. You might want to look @ a Millett DMS scope. It's a 1-4x with a lighted reticle and people have said mostly good things about it. I was thinking about picking up one before I decided to go with a red dot.
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