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  1. I like single stage triggers for the kind of stuff you are going to be doing with your rifle. I have a Timney 3 lb trigger in my first AR rifle and I like it just fine. For the build that I am currently working on, a 6.8 SPC II hunting rifle I ordered a Chip McCormick trigger. I got the trigger last week and have played with it a bit. The rifle is not done so I have not had a chance to field test the trigger yet. So far, I really like the trigger, it breaks very clean and crisp at about 4 lbs. It is a few bucks less expensive than the Timney and I think it breaks a little cleaner. One of the reasons that I choose the CMC trigger is that it's hammer spring is supposed to be strong enough to fire mil spec/tactical ammo. Here is a link to their site. http://www.cmctriggers.com/About.html
  2. A little follow up on my clicking trigger. First of all, Thanks to The Shadow for the info on this problem. He is exactly right on the cause of the clicking. We were traveling during the holidays and I didn't get back to this post till today, I had figured this out before I got back to read his post and to watch the video. In my research on the problem, I ran across a wonderful break down on the 3rd gen S&W pistols at the following link. This is what gave the confidence to take my pistol completely apart and slightly bend the trigger slack spring so as to have a bit more tension. It didn't take much, just a little tweaking with a pair of needle nose pliers. There are a lot of pieces to these 3rd gen S&W pistols, but if you take your time and watch the video that The Shadow posted and reference the pics in the break down in the following post, they are not all that difficult do deal with. YMMV depending on your patience and mechanical aptitude. http://www.smithandwessonforums.com/forum/...eup-w-pics.html With the slide off the pistol you can see inside the frame and watch the trigger draw bar and sear working. In my case, I could see the trigger draw bar snapping into place as I slowly pulled the trigger. By adding more tension to the spring, it causes the trigger draw bar to stay in the notch and when the trigger is pulled, there is no clicking. My pistol is performing perfectly now and I am very happy with it.
  3. Yes, it is more complicated than the 1911. But with the write-up that I mentioned in my original post, I was able to find the problem and correct it. I did a complete dis-assembly and cleaned everything, adjusted the "trigger play spring" and totally eliminated the annoying clicking that the trigger was doing. It wasn't as bad as I thought it might be. Having the writeup and pictures made the job relatively easy. My new 1066 is now working like a charm.
  4. FWIW, My local dealer told me that he had ordered a Kimber Eclipse in 10mm and was told by Kimber that it would be 4 to 6 months before that would manufacture another batch of the 10's. He showed me his order receipt from Kimber indicating that he has one on the way, so I gave him a deposit on it. Having said all of that, it looks like to me that Kimber only does a couple of runs of the 10mm's each year. If the info that my dealer told me is correct, there should be some more 10mm Kimbers on the market in a couple of months.
  5. In my searching for info on the 1066 that I have just purchased, I found a very good write up with excellent pictures on how to disassemble a 3rd Gen S&W. Here is a link to that writeup in case any other S&W owners are interested. <h2 class="title icon">http://www.smithandwessonforums.com/forum/s-w-gunsmithing/8858-59-series-complete-disassembly-thread-writeup-w-pics.html</h2> Also, one of the replies on toward the end of the thread talks about the clicking trigger issue that my new pistol is displaying. I will pick my 1066 on Tuesday and can't wait to get into it to see if I can cure the clicking trigger issue.
  6. sqlbullet, Thanks for the reply and great info. I had read about the flat bottom EGW firing pin stop on another forum, but your explanation of how it works is most helpful in understanding how it changes the operation of the pistol. I am waiting for my new Kimber, as their next run of the 10MM pistols may still be a couple of months out. I will have the parts that you recommended on hand when I get my new Kimber. No doubt I will try it as it comes from the factory, just to have a baseline on performance and then install the flat bottom firing pin stop and Wolff springs. I am very excited at the prospect of the new 1911 in 10mm. The fact that I have to wait for it only increases the anticipation.
  7. Does anyone have any experience with this set up from EFK Fire Dragon? Their ad reads pretty good, but it would be nice to hear from someone who has used one of these before I spend the money. Frame Saver
  8. Glad to hear that you had a good day at the range. Also, that you were able to work out the FTE problems. It is always fun to shoot a new gun and to learn it's idiosyncrasies. I suspect that as you shoot this pistol and get it broken in and the springs limbered up a bit, it will become more tolerant of lighter loads. Those targets look pretty good. I wouldn't want to be downrange and have you shooting at me.... LOL By the way, you are only a few months older that me. I will be 70 in January and I still get as excited as a kid in a candy store over a new gun.
  9. Welcome aboard Exlax from another NOB. I too would like to thank you for your service and sacrafices. I am not a Glock owner at this point, but may feel the need to go there for the G20SF. I handled one today and it is pretty nice. I just bought my first 10mm yesterday, a used S&W1066. I will see how I like the 10mm when I pick up my 1066 after the mandatory 10 day waiting period. I am reading this thread with great interest as I too want to learn about the G20SF and loading for it.
  10. Hi Guys, I am excited to report that I just purchased a used 1066 today. I will have to wait the mandatory 10 days before I pick it up. While inspecting it, I noticed a little click in the trigger during the free travel, about half way or so to the point of engaging the sear and dropping the hammer on single action. This happens with or without the magazine in place and does not occur when functioning the trigger in double action mode. I was wondering, is this normal? I suspect it is not, therefore I need to find a good S&W gen 3 gunsmith to take care of that little issue with the trigger, if I can't resolve it myself. Here in California, the only way we can purchase any of the older guns is via a private party transfer. We can not import any hand gun into the state that is not on the approved list. To get on a handgun on the list, the manufacture has to submit three samples for drop testing and pay a significant fee. Because of this situation, the 10MM S&W's are hard to come by. It is frustrating that I can't take it apart and see if I can figure out what is going on. But I won't be able to do that for at least 10 days. It will be that long before I can pick it up from the FFL. I am sure that the trigger will be the same in ten days, but I am excited and impatient! Any suggestions on what may be causing the trigger issue and and recommendations on a good gunsmith would be appreciated.
  11. Jim, Sound like you made a fantastic score! I will be interested in a range report on your new 1006. I just picked up (well did the paper work and have to wait 10 days) a 1066 in decent condition. I thought I got a pretty good deal at 650, but I think you did much better. I can't wait to get it in my hands and get it to the range. It will be my first 10MM.
  12. I know this do not exactly fit your requirements, but my wife absolutely loves her M&P full size 9MM. With the small grip insert it is not too big for her hand, and shoots it quiet well. It may be worth the effort to go to a public range that rents handguns and let her try a few different ones to get a flavor for what will really work for her. Just a thought.
  13. Hi Guys, I have a Kimber Eclipse II stainless/black on order. I should get it within a couple of months according to the gun shop. I have several other guns, but this will be my first experience with a 10MM and I am so looking forward to it. Update 8/11/11: I just purchased a S&W 1066 today. I will get a picture of it posted as soon as I pick it up (waiting the required 10 days here in California). Finally picked it up... And here it is with my 3913.
  14. c0nspire, Thanks so much for clearing this up for me. I get it now and it makes perfect sense. I was concerned and confused as I shop around for a tactical upper, as so many of them have the FSB and a flat top receiver.
  15. Hi Guys, I am a noob to the AR15 platform (although not to firearms in general). This is my first post and it is regarding images I see of any number of AR rifles/carbines with optic sights and the fixed iron front sight sticking up in front of the optic. What is the purpose of having the iron sight in front of the optic and are they co-witnessed? I can understand flip up iron sights (front and rear) as a backup system for the optic sight. Not having had the opportunity to handle a rifle with the optic and iron front sight, I can not envision how they would work together.
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