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Hoss622

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  1. That pic is exactly what I was looking for and remembered. So what is the consensus among Glock 20 fans? Are the newer Glocks good to go with the hot stuff? Should Crossfire put any general warning on their page for older Glocks?
  2. Crossfire Ammunition is a local Akron, OH company that loads premium self-defense ammo. http://crossfireammunition.com/ A buddy of mine sells a lot of their ammo, and he had them load up some hot 10mm for him. From what I understand, they will be offering it for sale eventually, but not yet. I grabbed a double handfull for my converted P16-40 and chronographed a few. It's loaded with a 140 grain copper solid bullet, with a very deep hollow point. It's made by General Bullet. I've never heard of them, but it looks a lot like the Barnes copper solids. It's loaded in Starline brass. Since I didn't have a lot of it, I only chronographed 4 rounds. The max velocity was 1554 fps, the min velocity was 1519 with an average of 1540. The cases didn't look too terrible. There was a teeny-tiny drag mark at the bottom of the primer, indicating that it was just barely opening up early, but no visible expansion, and the primer didn't look too ugly otherwise. The gun is a fresh build, with less than 100 rounds through it. A P16-40 Limited, with a Stormlake gunsmith fit barrel (but together by Andy Horvath), an EGW flat-bottomed firing pin stop, heavy hammer mainspring and 22 lb recoil spring (pics of gun below). If I ever get a more sizeable quantity of ammo, I'll chronograph more. My statistics mentor would tell me that I'll go to Statistics Hell for reporting data based on such a limited sample size. While we're on the topic... For this really hot 10mm ammo, can stock Glock barrels handle this, or is the chamber too unsupported? I told Crossfire they might want to put a disclaimer on their webpage about "no unsupported chambers". That would certainly include "standard" 1911s, but what about Glocks? I also remember seeing a picture somewhere of an older G20 barrel, and a new G20 barrel, with the newer one looking more supported than the old one. Am I remembering correctly?
  3. I just picked it up today. Hope to shoot it in the next week and report the results.
  4. I recently dropped off my P16.40 Limited, along with a Stormlake oversized gunsmith fit barrel, with Andy Horvath. Should have it back right after Christmas.
  5. My experience with Berry Plated bullets has been mostly in .38 and .357. Be very careful about expecting the same velocities with them, as you will get with a hard cast lead bullet. Trying to get a major power factor load (165,000) in .357, with the 158 RN Berry was problematic. As this was going to be an IDPA load, I didn't want to have to use a magnum powder, and I shouldn't have needed it, just to get 1050 fps. Using both WW231 and Unique, I was getting flattened primers before i could consistently break 1050. With decent hardcast lead bullets, this wasn't a problem. Max charges of both powders were getting at least 100 to 150 fps less than I should have been getting, and have gotten, with hardcast bullets. Eventually, I abandoned this, and went with 180 grain Lasercast and Penn bullets, with Unique. Heck, I was even able to get a major power factor load with .38 Special cases. (This is in an N frame Model 28, and yes I was way over the max .38 load). So my advice with the Berry's: 1. Start at the minimum load and work up slowly. 2. Don't assume they will behave like hardcast bullets. They won't. Don't assume you're getting the velocities you think you are. You probably aren't. 3. Heed the advice about crimping. You can mess them up. 4. If you're looking for high velocities at high pressures, this is not the bullet. I ended up trading the rest of my 158's with my dad, for his stash of 180 Lasercast bullets. He is shooting SSR class in IDPA, and only needs 105,000 power factor. The bullets are great for that, and no smoke. My next experiment is going to be with Bayou Bullets. These are hardcast bullets with some kind of green plastic coating, which makes them relatively smoke free. They are made by Jerry Miculek's brother. http://www.bayoubullets.net/products.html I think I'm going to try 158's in .38 Special cases, and try to push them very hard and make a major power factor load. I sure would like to get away from the smoke of the cast bullets. When I get my 10mm Para conversion done, I'm going to try their 180 TCs.
  6. It also looks like Storm Lake is another option. Which is better?
  7. Following on to my question about the best barrel, what's the consensus on springs? I'm thinking for the light IDPA loads, the stock set-up should be fine, but need something for the hot stuff. What's the favorite brand and weights? What do people think about the Sprinco system? Is it needed, or just a standard full-length guiderod? What's the favorite full-length guide-rod these days?
  8. I emailed Nowlin, and they no longer make a Clark / Para ramped barrel. I'm thinking if I get a Bar-sto oversized gunsmithing barrel, my guy would fit the barrel to the existing bushing and frame / slide, so that the orginal .40 barrel should be able to continue to drop right in.
  9. Will this work easily? On the Storm Lake website, when you are buying a barrel, you have to specify a Para / Clark ramp, or a Nowlin / Clark ramp. Seems like the Nowlin ramp isn't the right style or something.
  10. Newbie and first post. I'm looking to buy a Para P16-40 and convert to 10mm. I'd like to fit a new 10mm barrel, and keep the .40 barrel for grins. What's the consensus on the best barrel for a project like this? I'd be having Andy Horvath do the fitting work, so it doesn't have to be a drop in barrel. Andy is famous for his sixguns, but can literally do anything.
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