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  1. Knotwild

    Strange things afoot in my can!!

    First photo is probably carbon. I have it in my Hybrid. The second photo is interesting in that it almost looks like copper, but it all seems concentrated in one area.
  2. Try some Benchmark. It has worked great for me in different guns. I also got a new Faxon that hasn't impressed me yet. In the future, I will shop for Wilson Arms barrels I think.
  3. Knotwild

    Removing a Loctited Barrel

    Thanks VERY much to everyone. The suggestions I see here are logical. I particularly like the idea of using a dowel. I forgot to mention that he took the barrel nut off before he sent it to me. So he just applied it to the barrel extension. I also forgot to mention that he said it is a Rock River Arms EOP upper receiver, but it doesn't match the Rock River pictures. I suppose it could be an older receiver. It has no markings and it is a slick side also (current RRA EOP is not). I also agree that I need to shoot it before I take it apart. The guy I got it from was very nice. He looked at the barrel with a bore scope and saw a little bit of erosion at the gas port, so he got it in his mind that the barrel had problems. I wonder why he didn't call Krieger and have them take a look at it. He had made his mind up that he was getting a new barrel. Then after saying he would send me the barrel, he couldn't get it loose, so he just sent the receiver. I am now getting in some parts to put it together and put it on a lower I have.
  4. Knotwild

    Removing a Loctited Barrel

    To make a long story short, a very nice man gave me a 22" Krieger barrel and upper receiver because he said it would not shoot to his standards. I want to remove the barrel from the receiver, but he put blue Loctite around the barrel when he assembled it. I want to disassemble it and make sure it is assembled correctly before I shoot it. Loctite says apply pressure until it shears or heat to "452 degrees". Just wondering if anyone has run in to this before and can offer some experience. Thanks,
  5. Knotwild

    AF Paperwork & Tax Stamp......

    I live in SC and my trust lawyer the time to explain things to me. If you, or someone, is listed as primary on the Trust, then you are allowed to be in possession of the NFA item. If you have the stamp and a copy of the trust with you and you encounter law enforcement for some reason, the paperwork and stamp identify you as one who can legally possess/use the NFA item. If you don't have these items on you, you probably will be detained until things are straightened out. The stamp also identifies the NFA item as legally produced and owned. No stamp and no paperwork = opportunity for law enforcement to bring charges against you.
  6. Knotwild

    .45 acp Questions

    Thanks Forsaken. I didn't know the H&K mags were single stack. So that has me leaning to the grease gun mag setup now. Rudy at Macon Armory does make DI uppers. In other forums he has indicated that they are kind of hard for the average guy (like me) to get up and reliably running. So, I don't think he sells any parts. The only thing I see that might be an advantage for the blow back is that it might run dirty better than the DI. And I imagine that the DI would be easier to tune when compared to tuning spring strength and buffer weight in the blow back. I know that 45 acp loads I shoot in my 1911's with cast bullets are very dirty. I will learn more when I talk with him to place my order next week.
  7. Knotwild

    .45 acp Questions

    I am totally new to pistol caliber AR's and I am about to buy/build one. I will be dealing with Macon Armory and have several choices to make. I am attracted to Macon Armory because he does the upper build and test fires it for reliability My goal is a SBR, suppressed. I am a recreational shooter who doesn't do long rapid fire strings much, and will be shooting mostly reloads and 45 acp is easy to reload in volume. So, opinions based on experience for the following choices would be appreciated. And to streamline things, Macon Armory indicates that the Quarter Circle 10 large magazine frame is problematic to make reliable. - Direct impingement or blow back? That is the main question. -What length barrel? - Macon Armory indicates that a CNC Gunsmithing makes a reliable lower using grease gun magazines.I like the CNC lower because the mag well is dedicated to the magazine and not using a mag well adapter in a regular AR receiver. However, saving almost $300 is appealing as I have a spare receiver and Macon Armory also sells mag well adapters for use with H&K USC magazines. Is the grease gun mag so long as to be ungainly? the USC mags go up to 20 rounds. I realize the 30 round grease gun mag might be handy if I was rich . ..enough to afford a full auto. Any other info would be appreciated.
  8. Knotwild

    Muzzlebreak too loud

    I just bought a KAW Valley linear comp from Joe Bob's Outfitters that looks really nice and is set up like the other linear comps. I have one like the ICE Sunburst too, but although it works well, it looks like someone screwed a piece of black pipe on the barrel. And I have a heavy 20" barrel that is surprisingly quiet with.........a thread protector.
  9. Knotwild

    play between upper and lower

    I will take tight every time. My PSA with a JP rifles 20" barrel shoots better tight than it does loose. That is off a bench with a 3-15 power scope. My other PSA upper with the PSA SC (made by FN) lower was so sloppy that I would have never bought it complete off the rack. Who wants a rifle that is sloppy, since sloppy equals poor quality in the rest of the world? Or put it this way, if you go to the local gun store and pick up two rifles of with the same price and features; one is loose and one is tight; which one will you buy?
  10. Knotwild

    play between upper and lower

    I use both types of flat jacks and love that product. Anything that moves consistently in recoil will be accurate. If not consistently, then inaccuracy will probably appear. So, I like them tight. I don't like side to side play either, so I shimmed the front on one rifle. PSA uppers, FN lower and PSA lower.
  11. Knotwild


    How are Jard triggers?
  12. Knotwild

    Forearm/Handguard Length Measurement

    I want to dump the stock handguard because I know free floating will help with accuracy. I probably will never dump 10 rounds, much less 30, because I know how heat can cook a barrel / shorten it's life. I like as much accuracy as I can get and Dtech has free floats of his own design in stock, is American made, and he is a one man shop. I enjoy supporting small business.
  13. Knotwild

    Forearm/Handguard Length Measurement

    Thanks for the help. Since I am new to AR's I waver a lot making decisions, and I am trying to save all I can. I kind of wanted to save the front sight and add a back up rear sight, but then I realized that my 57 year old eyes just won't cut iron sights in most conditions, so I am going to get rid of it. I want a smooth forearm because rails and hanging stuff off of them don't appeal to me. Plus, I am having a hard time finding American made stuff that is in stock. So, for the final decision; I am going with a Dtech mid-length free float and Dtech gas block; reasonably priced, and instock.
  14. I am brand new to AR's, never owned one; and I have looked through the forum and don't see exactly what I am looking for information wise. I have a PSA mid-length 16" barrel upper that I want to free float. I want something smooth, availalbe to ship, and the right length to leave the front sight for now. Some handguards are simply labeled "mid-length" and some give measurements. How do I measure my upper to get an idea of what I need to buy. From the delta ring, receiver face? I don't have a clue. I do see that installing a rifle length would require replacing or altering the sight/gas block and I guess carbine length would leave some of the gas tube exposed. So do I go with a 9.2", 10" or what?