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  1. OK, thanks. I do have a reloading manual, but I just wanted to get pointed in the right direction on good powders to try. There are so many different powders that it can be confusing to try and narrow it down to just one or two types that work well with the 10mm. I sure can't afford to buy every kind of powder listed in the reloading manual just to try them all out. Thats why I asked. I only have three powders on hand right now that I use for reloading .45 ACP and .44 Magnum, and those are Bullseye, Unique, and WW 296. Would any of these work well for what I want to do? I am thinking that Unique might be a good one to try. I mostly use Unique for reduced target/plinking loads in .44 Magnum. What about the other components I have? Are those all OK? Any other recommendations? Also, I see mention of a heavy recoil spring for use with the full power loads. What is a good spring to get? Thanks again.
  2. I'm new to the 10mm, and looking to start reloading for it. I know the full power and nuclear loads are what gets all the attention, but what I am looking for is a good plinking/target/practice load. Something like a 180gr bullet at around 1000-1100 fps. I mostly have Winchester brass, but I also have some federal and some Remington nickel plated stuff too. Is this all ok brass? The primers I have are WLP's, and the bullets are Montana Gold 180gr. FMJ's. I just need to know what would be a good powder(s) to try? The pistol I have is a Glock 20SF with the factory barrel. I've been told that the hot loads aren't good to use in this pistol anyway because of an "unsupported" chamber. Any truth to this? Should I buy an aftermarket barrel? Are there any other recommended modifications to this pistol for shooting the full power loads? I would like to try loading some full power loads, but only after I gain some more experience with reloading for the 10mm, and only if it would be safe to do so. For now I'd be happy with a good target load so I can shoot it more, and if I want higher performance, I'll just buy it from Double Tap. Thank you.
  3. Sorry, here are a couple crappy cell phone pictures I took. That's the best I can do at the moment. I just moved and my camera is still in storage.
  4. ***UPDATE*** Well, I went back to the gunshop. They have a decent selection of both EOTechs and Aimpoints. They had the following Aimpoint models: M3 with 2 MOA dot $549 + mount ML3 with either a 2MOA or 4MOA dot $489 + mount M4 with 2 MOA dot $729 Micro T-1 $599 + mount And the following EOTech models: 511 $389 512 $409 516 $429 552 $499 553 $559 557 $499 All but the 557 had the standard 65 MOA circle with the 1 MOA center dot. As most of you probably already know, the 557 has a variation with "hold over" dots for different ranges. Since I don't have night vision, the NV compatible models were eliminated from consideration, they also cost more, especially the Aimpoint models, those would have been well over my $500 budget. That left only the Aimpoint ML3 and the EOTech models 511, 512, and 516. Anyway, after comparing all the sights side by side, and learning to focus on the target not the reticle, I came to the conclusion that I liked the EOTech reticle better. The only real downside to the EOTech is that battery life is not as good as Aimpoint, but then again, nothing is. I have also seen a lot of negativity expressed towards EOTech all over the web on certain other forums, and this also gave me pause. The upsides to the EOTech are that there is no extra mount to buy, and the reticle seems to work a bit better for my eyes. After much consideration I bought the EOTech 516. The reasons I went with that model over the others are I liked the side buttons better than the buttons on the back. They are easier for me to get at. I also liked that this model has a built in riser to allow lower third co-witness. I didn't like the way absolute co-witness looked. The CR123 batteries it uses do cost a bit more than AA, but I had no difficulty finding CR123 batteries at my local Wal-Mart. The CR123 batteries are also what most tactical lights use, and I plan on buying a light for my carbine next, so that would mean I would only need one type of battery to run both my optic and my light.
  5. OK, now I am not so sure I should get an Aimpoint over the EoTech. I just found out about the EoTech rebate offer they are doing right now. I don't know what to get now. I do like the EoTech, and I haven't really found anything negative about the newer models. Seems like most people who have them like them. Those of you with EoTechs, how do you like them? Any problems? The models I am looking at are the 516 or maybe the new XPS2.
  6. I think I am going to go ahead and try an Aimpoint. After all, if it doesn't work out for me, I doubt I'll have much trouble selling it. Thanks for helping me out.
  7. I was thinking maybe I will just have to try harder to concentrate looking at the target instead of the reticle. I have been an irons only shooter for so long that I am used to looking at the front sight with the target out of focus. Maybe it will just require practice. I am just reluctant to plunk down $500 on an optic that may not work for me.
  8. I haven't shot with them. I just looked through them in the store by pointing them at a "target"(a no parking sign) about 100 yards away down the street. So, I was focusing on the "target", but the reticles still appear to "bloom" or get fuzzy. I've been told it is because of my astigmatism. Of the two, I think the Aimpoint might be more usable to me, but I do kind of like the EoTech. With the EoTech, the center dot is fine, it is just the circle around it that is fuzzy, which is kind of distracting. Like I mentioned before, I think either one would work inside of 100 yards. I'm just concerned about sacrificing precision as well as the ability to make the occasional longer shot out to 200+ yards. That Leupold Prismatic looks interesting. Have you used one? I haven't ever even seen one.
  9. I guess I should have mentioned my budget is only around $500. Thanks for the suggestions though.
  10. Hello, everyone. I recently bought a S&W M&P15 MOE Carbine. I really want to put an optic on this rifle, but I am having some issues. All my friends recommended a red dot sight for a carbine like mine, specifically Aimpoint or EoTech. I have looked at both Aimpoints and EoTechs, I like them both, they both have advantages and disadvantages. The biggest problem I am having with them is they don't seem to be very compatible with my eyes. The Aimpoint dot looks like a star to me, not a clear round dot, even when I turn the power level down to just barely visible, it "blooms". That is the best I can desribe it. The EoTech reticle is fuzzy, kind of "pixelated" looking, at least the outer ring is, the center dot is better, but I find the fuzzy outer ring distracting. Both would be usable at close range, but I don't think I could confidently make a shot further than 100 yards with either one. I'm not sure I could even make a precise shot at 100 yards even with either one. It is bad enough that I am considering a magnified optic, but I'm not sure I want to do that to such a lightweight handy carbine. A magnified optic, specifically a 1-4X variable, seems like it would just unbalance the rifle too much. This is so frustrating. Does anyone else have this problem? Suggestions?
  11. CJ1

    Vltor's NEW Front Sight Assembly

    +1, I was thinking the same thing.
  12. CJ1

    AR "kits"?

    Thanks for the replies everyone. I still have a few questions. I've seen several other companies offering kits besides Del-Ton, like J&T/Double Star, M&A Parts, and Model 1 Sales. Which is the best for overall quality, as well as having excellent customer service if I should need it? I've seen people post about their horror stories with some of these companies on other forums. I've never seen anything bad about Del-Ton though, so they may be the best to go with. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Again, thank you all for your help.
  13. CJ1

    AR "kits"?

    Yeah, I could see how someone could drop some serious coin into a ground up build. I may do that very thing someday, but for now it seems that a kit gun would be my best bet to get me started. I can always upgrade it later as my finances allow. That's one of the things I find so attractive about the AR, its adaptability. ETA: Thanks for the tip NONEYA!
  14. CJ1

    AR "kits"?

    That's what I thought. I already have a set of punches, so I have that covered. The kit I'm considering uses the standard A2 stock, so no need for a stock wrench. As far as cost, the kit I want from Del-Ton will cost $540 shipped. A local dealer sells stripped DPMS lowers for $139 + tax. Total cost, including tax would be $690. All the prices on AR's in my area start at around $800-$850 + tax. For the version I want, 20" chrome lined A3 flat top rifle, they go for $850-$900 + tax. By my math, thats a savings of at least $160. Since my total budget is only about $1000, that gives me at least $160 more to use towards magazines, ammo, and optics. Seems like a good deal to me, but since I've never used one of these kits before, and I don't know anyone who has, I decided to ask everyone here if these kits are any good.
  15. CJ1

    AR "kits"?

    It is my understanding that the uppers in these kits already come fully assembled, headspaced, and test fired. I'd only have to assemble the lower, which doesn't require any special tools if I understand correctly, then pop the upper onto the lower, and viola! Isn't that how these kits come? Am I missing something?