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    Tazwell County, Illinois
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  1. The information I am trying to get out to everyone, is an article from Tom Vanden Brook, USA TODAY 12:59 a.m. EDT April 28, 2014. He outlines our governments plan to destroy over $1.2 billion dollars in weapons and munitions due to the various services ordering and logistics electronic systems not being able to talk to each other. Please call your Congressmen, Senators, and other 2nd Amendment politicians and let them know of the waste of money that is about to happen because the military cant seem to spend funds on modernizing the logistical system surrounding our weapons caches.
  2. In the future, I will try to make it shorter, I guess I just needed to vent.
  3. Greeting my fellow AR gun owners! Let me start this short tyraid by saying "Stupid, Stupid, Stupid". Notice no "Happy, Happy, Happy" there. I have an Eagle AR-15 that I have owned since the 80's. It is 5,56, 12/1 ratio, collapsable stock, stock sights with a weaver rail mounted on the top of the carry handle. A very nice NcStar Tactical Rubberized Scope and totally spotless and clean. I have been having good ejection of rounds (even though I recently found no buffer or o-ring in the extractor, just a spring. And found that by accident. The problem that I have been having is that it would not pick up a round and load it into the chamber. I fire a round and would have to manually pull the bolt back and release it and then it would pick up the next round. I was packing up to leave, when a kind gentleman showed me is mint condition DPMS 100th (or was it 50th) anniversary rifle with a nice chrome looking bolt, tricked out trigger, floating barrel hand guards, etc. As I was pissed off at my current issue, my response was something like "Yeah, yeah, nice weapon". (One of many Stupid things I did). I guess he had been watching me with my issues of lack of pick up, two rounds trying to go into the chamber at once, rounds half way in the chamber with the bolt putting a big dent in the side of the case and felt sorry for me. He never said anything about nothing other than to walk over and give me a hand full of .223 rounds. "Here, give these a try.." He even was going to lend me his DPMS magazine to use too. So I mumbled something about "thanks." (Stupid) and proceeded to shove them into the magazine and lock and loaded. Well, as it turns out, those rounds ran as fast as shat through a goose or as fast as I could pull the trigger. My response to him was somewhat of the type that I almost didnt seem impressed. (STUPID). I told him thanks and said that it must be my ammo and continued to pack up. He very nicely said " hey, you leaving? I have a bunch of ammo you can shoot if you want. I got another 3000 rounds at home I am going to burn through. I nicely thanked him for the offer but made an excuse to just get home. I grabbed my two arm fulls of gear and headed up the hill to the car. (Stupid, Stupid, and again Stupid). Here I had met a nice guy, who gave me some working ammo to try, made an offer to shoot as much as I wanted to (and worked in my weapon) and I am walking up the hill feeling dejected. (Stupid). Didnt get his name or phone number. (Stupid) Did not find out what that ammo was that ran perfectly in my weapon. (Stupid) and feeling sorry for myself that I have a piece of doo doo for a AR. (Stupid). I called experts, ready books by people that were labeled as Master AR Gunsmiths, called companies, emailled and did just about everyrthing I could to find answers to my problem. I heard you need hotter loads, gotta run those rounds at 3000 fps or more. It is your magazines, throw it away and buy new ones. Ok, what do I do with the 30 new ones in plastic, from a reputable company that I have sitting in new MTM AR magazine boxes. I listened to more people tell me more about how much of a POS I had bought from Eagle Arms (this was not a piecemeal weapon, this is an actual Eagle Arms AR-15 built at the factory, tested and sold with the instructions,cleaning kit, sling and such. I even had a "expert" at Armalite tell me that Eagle Arms never made fully assembled weapons and the very few had a special mark on the magazine well (which mine didnt have), so his opinion to me was worthless from that point on. Now I did ask him one question that proved to make a big differance in the future of my life. I asked him what Armalite drilled out thier carbine gas holes to. He quickly responeded that all holes in the Armalite AR-15 Carbine Rifles were bored to .021 of an inch. I thanked him and quickly got off the phone. I made a large post it note with the number .021 written on it. As it so happened, that day that I felt very much Stupid and down about a bad AR, an older gun range, ex-army team shooter and his "gunsmith" brought up a comment and were bantering back and forth about it. One said, "As I recall, the Eagle Arms AR-15 was one of the better built guns at the time because they had not been taken over by so and so, therefore they could machine the parts to the specs that made them run right and sold the parts to other companies who were building AR/M16s at the time. The tollerances were better and the material really was mil-spec stuff." Then a stunning comment came up that made me start thinking and wanting to get home to the books and all the data I have lying around. The older gentleman said, "now I know there was a short period of time that Eagle Arms had recalled a small percentage of the barrels because the gas port was not large enough. Ok, semi-stupid time. Everyone I have read or listened to has said leave the gas port and tube assembly alone. If you have a problem with your AR it is somewhere else, not in the area of the front site. Period. So, guess what Stupid does as soon as he gets home? Come on, you'll never guess? Yep, thats right. Stripped that AR down to the top half minus the hand guards and got me out a new roll of duct tape. What is the duct tape for you ask? Well, on the reciever end you put a two by for or some similar size piece of wood under the back end and the front site fits right nicely on that roll of duct tape, especially a new roll. Had me a set of pin punches and followed the "Grand Master AR Gunsmith's" every word on how to take of the compensator (helps to heat that bugger up with a small flamed torch and it just twists right off). Took my large brass hammer and the just the right size punch and loosened up all the pins. Then I took my small bronze hammer to drive the pins out. Slick as snot and it went nice and easy. Ok, so now I say the magic words, Stupid! I was doing the very same thing that everone said never, ever do. The site and gas tube came off without any issues. (in the future, I will say that you need to not puch out that gas tube retaining pin.(Stupid) Things would have been so much better at this point. Some vice grips,a lot of lubrication, a little heat, some twisting and pulling and I finally got the gas tube out. (Stupid) What for? If I had left it in the front site with the pin in, i could have just shined a light into the hole and could have seen if the gas tube was lined up right or was of center, but I did not need to take it out. (Stupid). I went a got my precision drill set and after looking at the barrel and the sorta 3/4 moon shaped hole, I used the drills to see which I could get into the hole. I finally knocked enough of the edge of the hole off to get a .012 inch drill into the whole. EUREKA!! All the worlds problems were solved! Being smarter than the average bear, I drilled out that gas hole to .018 inch and finally to a finished .021 of an inch. All the worry and gun problems were solved. Except that I had a chewed up front site and gas tube. Off to my brownells catolog and parts were here in two days. That in itself is increadable around these parts. Put the gas tub in the front sight, lined up the hole in the front site and the gas tube and very carefully put in the retaining pin. So far, so good. Well, how in the devil to you line up the front site and gas tube hole and the barrel hole to make sure they are all connected? (Stupid). I made marks and drilled holes (as this new front site did not come with any holes and lined things up and put in the last two pins. Got me some high temp, flat back matching paint and did my thing. Next day, took it to the range to test her out, but needed my "gunsmith" to put the compensator on for me. After he did that, he came back proudly handed me my fully restored and refurbished weapon and said "whom ever did the work on this gun (Drm roll, here comes the credits for all the hard work) He says, "sure freaked up this front site and I dont think you will ever be able to hit anything at all. He then asked me to look down the top of the weapon from the reciever to the front sites and asked "did you happen to notice that the front sites point off to the 11'oclock position. Grabbing the AR, my heart sank like the Titanic as here the front site was definitely pointing off to 11' oclock. Nope no doubt in the world. He said that it could be fixed and as long as I had been planning on getting a 1/9 twist barrel, I had him give me the list of parts to order and they should be there for him to do the weapon by Friday.. So hopefully, I can still make it to that Carbine Class I have been wanting to take next week. Bottom line: If you want to be "happy, happy, happy" then dont be "Stupid, stupid, stupid". Find a damn good AR Gunsmith, drive the 100 or so miles and let them do it right the first time. Steven
  4. I have been attempting to load AR ammo from various manufactures powders using the recommended charts from each and I have been taking the middle of the load and loading rounds at that middle ground of what the manufactures have put out. I have been going to the range and since I cant afford a chronograph, I have been attempting to shoot for accuracy at 100 yards. Now one would think that you could throw the round at 100 yards and hit the target. Well, no so true. So, went and called Lake City and talked to a tech there, attempted to talk to someone at the company that took over manufacturing of my weapon system and even the powder manufacturers. I have been pouring over books and online bullet data. My problem is: I can fire off the first round of x bullet weight at Y powder load, all made on the same press,etc. and what I am getting is the first round going off, getting spent case ejection, however no second round pick up. I have to manually load the next round, fire, eject, not pick up, manually load, fire, repeat. After about three differant loads, bullet weights, etc. I wanted to send the weapon off to have a expert look it over, offer some trick parts or work, but have failed to find someone in my area. So back to the books and such. A concencous of opinions is that the bolt had enough reverse movement to eject the spent case, but was not moving far enough to the rear to pick up the next round. This was proven by another shooter allowing me to use his ammo that was loaded to the upper powder end of the scale and the rounds just loaded and fired as fast as I could pull the trigger. What I have discovered is that the round for the .223/5.56 operates with various loads that are very close to each other, not in the powder loads, but in the operating FPS (feet per second) range. I reloaded some bullets using the half way powder weights, however looking through all the materials and talking to differant people, this particular round should have been running around 3100 FPS which was the very top end of this particular manufacturers load chart. Not so bad, I only had 100 rounds to pull and reload. Another weight of bullet and powder FPS was so low to the recommended 2975 fps, I am surprised that the round made it out of the barrel at all. As I get a data chart put together on differant loads, powders and recommended FPS, I will put it up here for you all to look at, but mind you, any use would be at your own risk. Just as an end note; I am finding that the weights and types of bullets from an AR with a 20 inch barrel is roughtly between 2850 and 3300 FPS muzzle. I am sure there are many of you that know this already, but the more data you have, the better decisions you can make.
  5. Want .223 powders, look to Alliants new AR COMP, Power Pro 1200 and thier Power Pro 2000 MR. These are all made specifically for the .223 and 5.56 fan that is in all of us. They are clean burning, little residue and can be used in the .308 cal also. I will ruin the opinions of a few reloaders that say RCBS is the best without a fault. I started a long time ago with RCBS and have shifted over to the Lee Dies, a Progressive Die and a single die press I only use on .308 sniper rounds. I dont hate Lee products, they have been very, very good to me over the years. Another option if you are going to mess around with .223/5.56 and 308 rounds is to have a crimp press for each. Lee makes an increadibly good crimp die that doesnt over roll the crimp or crush cases. Enough to hold back the round to get a high starting pressure and this will equate to a better group in the process. I have been rolling with reloading for about 25 years and have learned alot that could fill volumes of books. Take my word for it. Have fun doing it too. When it is no fun,then it is a chore and you and I know chores just dont seem to get done.
  6. Alliant Powder has come out with a new powder called the AR COMP. In making attempts to set up my auto powder reloading device, I have to convert my grains x VMD to get a figure X. By using figure X, I can set up the LEE Double Stack Auto Loader and I believe the Dillon Press also. So anyway, after trying for several hours to stack disks to get my dream load of 25 grains in the .223 case, I recieved a call from Alliant with a number. It was wrong, so today I got a smart tech on the phone and he did the math and the new VMD number for AR Comp is .0648 Using the various charts for my equipment, I was able to set up twice to get to the exact number of grains loaded that I had wanted in the first place. I believe that only Lee Loaders and the Auto Disk Loader should need this number, but they dont come easy when you need them. Have a nice reloading day.
  7. I could have told you that EAA makes crappy weapon systems, but you didnt ask. You will probably get a dark colored slide rather than the nice chromecoat that matches the bottom. The rear site wil fall out and get lost in the grass. An after market sight will cost you about $58 just for the site, then the installation fees, etc. Either that or you can send it back to EAA with another $20 bucks to ship it back to you with a differant slide and maybe even a differant rear sight. This company has hostile employees, does not give a damn about the customer, has a long lead time between getting the weapon and actually doing someing with it. They have bought out a company called SAR Arms and are engraving the EAA logo on the slides. Half poly, half crap metal slides. I have heard more problems with EAA and thier "service" and warentee that I am staying away from them and getting my wife a new Glock 9mm , that runs in the rain, mud, snow, dust, etc and has a great service department.
  8. I have an unusual problem. I own a early version of an Eagle Arms, of Coal Valley, IL, pre-ban, EA-16 in 5.56 cal. It came with a colapsable stock, 16" barrel and standard flash suppressor. The bolt is very similar to the DPMS(?) bolt. Carry handle, modern front and rear steel sites. Other than that, there are absolutly no markings anywhere, on the barrel, upper, lower, inside or out. Purchsed the weapon back in the 80's and was told it was a newer A2 model. I have not used this weapon but briefly with a handle mounted scope and a red-dot E-O Tech type sight. I know of the history of the Eagle Arms Company, from original owners, being acquired by a Rock River Exec and onto Armalite. I was told that Eagle Arms only made parts for the M-16 and maybe the AR platforms, however I met one of the owners at the time I was looking for a AR type and recieved it from the factory fully assembled as I had asked for. So, dont have much on fact or info about barrel type, chrome no chrome, bolt issues or not, all the usual stuff an AR owner might want to stuff away for a future day. By the way, the little shooting I have been able to get in, this weapon runs like a champ. Put a poly and oring in the extractor and new grips and a forward handle. Other than that, it runs stock. Any info, however little it might be would be appreciated. Nosvette
  9. Not being new to the AR and M-16 line of weapon systems, the milspec lubricant is CLP. The problems that CLP had in the past was due to a teflon content to make things slippery. This didnt work out and caused issues with the weapon. There is a new CLP that thte government has adopted and issued for use and I want to say the formulation for the Cleaning and Preservation changed slightly, but the Lubrication using the teflon was resolved by the removal of the older teflon additive in the product. I have purchased some civilian CLP just recently and it has a slightly differant chemical teflon additive in it, so I dont know. I do know the military tested the crap out of this new CLP product and it was to have come through with flying colors. I have tried other compounds and to do it right, you need a copper removing compound, a barrel cleaning compound, a lubricant and a preservative, if you want to clean, lube and preserve the weapon right. I have used CLP in differant forms for years and it seem good to me. Oh, I met a competition barrel, bold and upper manufacturer here in Illinois that shoot competition on a regular basis and has the throphies to prove his metal. I asked him how often he cleaned his match rifle and his reply was "about twice a year." He also said that he did not use copper remover as all barrels have microscopic cracks, grooves, etc. and in his expierience the copper has the ability to fill in all the imperfections in the barrel. Hey, he has the 600 yd trophies and all, so I figure that the man knows more than I.
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