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  1. 30 years out of a Competition Electronics chronograph- Yep! I purchased a ProTach Classic chronograph in about 1985. Lately it has become a little unreliable, but it still works most of the time. 30 years was pretty good service so decided to lay out for a new chronograph. Price is much less considering the value of the dollar then and now. I researched all the available chronographs and decided on the ProChrono. After I received it I became aware both had been made by Competition Electronics- How about that? Thought ProTach manufacturers had just disappeared. Took it out today for a quick test and ran a lo-vel .22 through it. It caught that so ran 10 hi-vel .22's through it and it caught each of them. Still had two .308 rounds left from what I was checking when the old ProTach started acting up, so they went down range and it caught both of them also. Thirteen out of thirteen, not bad... I'm Happy. When this style of one piece unit with the screens integral within it came out I was not particularly impressed; After using it It has proven much easier to handle than the old two piece units. If I get 30 years out of this one they can probably bury me with this one.
  2. Moderators should consider 'sticking-up' this reference material..
  3. Glad that some of you enjoyed the opportunity for a free copy of this great manual. When I was in the service I read the complete book and the supplement cover to cover to become knowledgeable to the point I could debate with anyone on the subjects contained therein. A gunsmith-friend back home built me a custom 7x61 Sharpe and Hart on a Mauser 98, fitted it with a Leupold 4X post and hair scope and let me pay him in monthly payments. Was a real 'shooter' I was elated when I stumbled on the free PDF. Unfortunately the supplement is not there.
  4. Here is a link to the PDF copy of the book by Phillip B. Sharpe. I stumbled onto it on the web and have owned my copy since 1960. There is a gold mine of information there even though it is old and dated. Most of the ballistic information is still relevant. http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerdog/generalstorage/pdfpublications/complete_guide_to_handloading%20-%20sharpe%20-%201937.pdf Enjoy
  5. The nuts (Democratic Congress) are running amok. https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/house-bill/4269/text H.R.4269 - Assault Weapons Ban of 2015
  6. Troy Industries- the Good, the Bad and the UGLY Good: I have three of the Troy Folding Battle Sights (M-4 and HK). THEY are GREAT! But something you may be interested in is under UGLY.. Bad: I purchased a set of the the new HK 45deg. Offset Folding Sights even though there were few reviews so here's one; The upper portion appears to be the same but the similarity ends there. The sight base and the picatinny rail mount are different. The base attaches to the rail mount with a single counter-sunk screw and the rail mount has a snug fitting relief that the base slides in for stability. The rail mount is one piece with two cuts to allow it to flex slightly, clamping onto the picatinny when the cross screw is tightened. There were two problems encountered with these new sights. (1) The countersunk mount hole in one of the mounts was slightly offset causing the base to ‘tweek’ and not tighten down properly within it. (2) The tolerance on the picatinny cut made in the mount was so close it barely squeeked onto the upper receiver and was wa-ay too tight to fit on a SLR Sentry 7 Railed Gas Block (quality stuff). The picatinny mount is aluminum and rigid to the point it could easily crack in the relief cuts if one attempts to spring it outward to fit onto a tight picatinny. If you are LUCKY, you will have mounting points these will fit onto. If you are NOT lucky, it is possible to make judicious use of a file to coax corrections to these sights but the anodizing is top quality and going to fight you all the way. REALLY?: Who wants to drop a couple-hundred bucks for something that has to be rebuild to fit? UGLY: A call to TROY INDUSTRIES got me a gentleman who politely advised me, “These units are assembled from parts that manufactured on a one-to-one basis, meaning NO PARTS ARE AVAILABLE FOR SALE”. Curiously, this is the same line I was given when trying to purchase a new aperture for the DOA- style I wanted to switch some while back. Personally, I should have learned from the DOA communication, but I guess I was swayed by the quality of the original HK and M-4 sights I have. I was considering DUECK DEFENSE offsets but thought the folding design would better meet my needs. BUMMER! TROY INDUSTRIES gets no more of my business.
  7. MODULUS provides an excellent jig design. IF you use due diligence and care you can turn out a very satisfactory unit. Go SLOW and take shallow router cuts, AND be sure the depth setting is locked tightly on your router.. the router bit will try to increase the cut depth(plunge) ..and.. it will succeed if you aren't careful. But, don't let that scare you, if you are mechanically-minded and take your time with the details it should come out fine. Think each cut you are intending to make through before cutting anything
  8. GREG; As most of us know even many factory nose punches will mark your bullets. A little 'trick' on making an exact copy of a given bullet for either a seating die plug or a sizing die plug: Clean the original seating plug well with acetone or lacquer thinner. Place a small dob of acraglass-gel or marine-tex into it. Pre-coat the bullet of of a loaded round (if using in the reloading press) lightly with sizing die wax to prevent air bubbles. In your reloading press or sizer lubricator run the new bullet up and keep a light tension with something like rubber bands and leave it overnight. Trim any squash-out with a sharp knife. This makes a perfectly exact nose punch that can be later recovered if necessary by applying heat to remove the filler. I have used this method for years. 'CHEERS'
  9. Thanks GREG; I am a black-bullet fan and that quirk always creates an experimental data curve. "NORM" always gives a reference to shoot for. (No pun intended)
  10. Followed your other post on the first group with FGMM. What were the chronograph velocities?
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