Jump to content

TackleberryMCS

Gold Patron
  • Content Count

    2,262
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

TackleberryMCS last won the day on March 10 2020

TackleberryMCS had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,163 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Location
    Pensacola, FL
  • State and Country Flags
    Florida

Profile Fields

  • Interests
    Guns, cars, and old movies

Recent Profile Visitors

2,383 profile views
  1. I suggest looking into the A5 intermediate buffer system. It still gives you the option to use any number of carbine stocks.
  2. Look forward to seeing more pics of that old Wrangler. I wish I had the cash and the room for a nice old CJ5 or CJ7.
  3. I was really wanting a HEMI powered GC, but no nice ones were to be had for the cash I had. I ended up with the 3.7L V6. Although not a V8, it still works for me and it was in great shape. It had been well taken care of.
  4. Hey Steve. FYI, I just ordered a set of JBA Offroad upper control arms for the GC.
  5. I did the same thing several years ago when I bought a Hummer H3. I wanted to makes some mods, but had to have the cash to do it. In that event, I sold off some ARs to fund the project. It turned out really well. My goal is to have a very useful utilitarian vehicle that not only looks good, but is functional as well. I have always had a habit of making any vehicle mine by making it a bit different form others that are around. Here is the Jeep as it sits right now. Here is the H3 I had.
  6. I am still around too. I have not done much of anything gun-related except selling four of my ARs in the past 6 weeks. I am putting some that money into my 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4. I have already did a 2" lift a couple years ago. I upgraded the wheels (XD818 HEIST) a couple weeks ago. This coming week, I get the following installed: CORE 4X4 trackbar and control arms, POWERSTOP performance brake kit, and a Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust system. I am still trying to sell on more of my ARs (20" A4 type with A1 type wood furniture). I have even considered selling my WWII weapons and affiliated items. Anyhow, that is what I have been up to lately.
  7. There is something seriously wrong with this listing. You do not buy a Surefire weaponlight that cheap, especially with the pressure switch. These normally for $270-$300 plus another $80 for the pressure switch. BTW, if you want to spring some cash for a really good quality and battle proven weaponlight, Surefire weaponlights are the way to go. I own several of them. The important thing is to buy from credible sources and that means not buying from an airsoft retailer.
  8. I agree. Unless you are going to be using NODs and shooting under low light conditions (using a green laser), a laser (primarily red) is useless and a waste. If one is concerned about quick target acquisition and getting rounds on target, practice with your optic and/or BUISs. DO NOT rely on a laser. Get a good quality weaponlight and be done.
  9. Might I suggest going with a black FF M-LOK handguard in a length somewhere between 13"-15". A 10"handguard will barely cover the gas block. Also, a longer handguard will giver you more mounting space for accessories like a weaponlight, handstop or foregrip, and additional picatinny rail sections if desired. I would recommend using rail panels and other accessories that are in FDE to help break up the black much like what I did with these ARs. If you really want to use a FDE handguard, it still pairs well with black receivers.
  10. I saw this optic advertised at PA too. With no history on these to go on, it may be a crap-shoot, lifetime warranty or not. If I was building a cheap shooter and did not have funds for a decent optic, one of these may be considered. Other than that, I would rather spend more and get a real MRO. As a matter of fact, I have a MRO with a new LaRue Tactical mount sitting on my shelf. I bought it last month when they had the combo on sale. It was too good of a deal to pass on.
  11. There is absolutely nothing wrong with MAGPUL MBUS sights. I have a few of these on some of my ARs. They are a very good less than expensive alternative. It is just that I like the MAGPUL MBUS PROs and MI Combat Rifle Sights a bit better because they are metal and have a lower profile. They do, however, come a higher cost. As far as a light is concerned, I would not want to go lower than 500 lumens. Take a look at the SureFire M300 Mini Scout Light (500 Lumens) in Tan. It is very reasonably priced as far as Surefire weaponlights go. For a SHTF AR, you want to make sure your accessories are good stuff. https://www.primaryarms.com/surefire-m300-mini-scout-light-500-lumens-tan-m300c-z68-tn
  12. As Sean said, nothing wrong with the standard MBUS sights. I have used them many times over the years. Good option for the budget-minded while still getting good quality.
  13. Sean makes a vital point. The DD rear sight, being a fixed rear sight, will interfere with a magnifier. You would need to have a low profile flip-up rear sight for a magnifier to work. I would nix the idea of using DD sights and opt for some that are folding like the MAGPUL MBUS PROs or even the Midwest Industries Combat Rifle Sight set. Both are low profile and are robustly constructed. There are other options, but these are two I prefer.
  14. First off, I would not put a TRS-25 on a DD. Secondly, using risers is not recommended as they create two mounting areas that are capable of misalignment or loosening. I would recommend getting a decent red-dot with a correct lower 1/3rd or absolute co-witness mount. If you are strapped and need something affordable, but of decent quality, I recommend red-dots by HOLOSUN, the SIG SAUER ROMEO5, VORTEX SPARC AR, VORTEX CROSSFIRE II, or any of the Primary Arms Micro red-dots. These are all very affordable and either come with a correct mount or have mounts available. For your BUISs to co-witness with your optic, it has to sit at the correct height (lower 1/3rd or absolute). Lower 1/3rd means that the front sight post will be viewed in the lower 1/3rd of the lens below the red-dot where absolute means that the red-dot sits right on top of the front sight post. Here are a few of mine with some of the red-dots I mentioned. VORTEX CROSSFIRE II Primary Arms SLx Advanced Push Button Microdot Red Dot Sight w/ Primary Arms Absolute Co-witness Micro Dot Mount SIG SAUER ROMEO 5 VORTEX SPARC AR HOLOSUN Paralow HS403A Red Dot Sight - 2 MOA
×
×
  • Create New...