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jwilliams0408

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Everything posted by jwilliams0408

  1. I agree, I was very careful when stoning my trigger, making sure not to remove any case hardening of any kind. I've heard some real disaster stories about trigger jobs going full auto at the range, something that I'd rather avoid!! I'm just going to shoot it some more and hope that it smoothens out, which it will, but I'm impatient! Thanks for the input, I would have probably said the same exact thing, good looking out! Have a wonderful Thanksgiving Day weekend (what's left of it). Pew pew
  2. So, when I first started to shoot AR's I immediately bought a NiB FCG and stoned it to remove burrs, I then threw on a set of yellow JP's and the trigger was amazing for what it was, cheap. Now I'm wondering if I should try something similar with my new MBT-2S, has anyone out there tried this? The trigger is already amazing, but I wanted to test the waters and see if anyone else out there had any success with doing a fluff and buff on a 2 stage trigger. Hit me up and let me know your thoughts. I'm not worried about voiding any kind of warranty, only wanted to know if it would be worth trying.. Happy shooting folks, thanks in advance for any kind of input. s
  3. Recently purchased a Larue MBT-2S and am wondering if it's compatible with the Battle Arms Development's BAD-CASS-SA, since I've read about compatibility issues with the first couple of production runs. I've read that there was a clearance issue that prevented the function of the BAD-CASS when paired with the MBT, anyone out there experiencing issues with these two? If so, what's the best route to take, Dremel or file? Thanks in advance, Happy Thanksgiving to all! :D
  4. I do like this option and it does everything that I previously stated! Thank you for the info!
  5. I'm in the market for a new safety selector and am looking for a modular system, one that will serve as an ambi, right handed, or left handed option. I want a modular design so that I can apply the most comfortable option when shooting, any suggestions? I've been looking into V7, Battle Arms Development, and Griffin Armament options, but figured that I'd check here for a second opinion. Like I said before, I want the option of the safety selector to be left handed, right, and ambi, just in case I feel like switching things up a bit from time to time. Thanks in advance for any and all info, this forum has never failed me in the past and I look forward to the input.
  6. Good point, I'll fire it once at the range and replace the FCG.
  7. The more that I research the "DIY trigger job" the more I agree with you, basically by doing as I previously stated I'd be creating a slam fire-happy AR 15, which kind of defeats the purpose of having one in the first place. If I'm constantly worrying about the integrity of the case hardening then I think that my attention would be better served by just replacing the damn thing, instead of waiting for a double/slam fire. The risk of injury far outweighs any kind of reward that I could possibly gain by lightening the trigger myself. The ONLY other idea that I had was to use Cherry Red to harden the engagement surfaces, I may do it just for the experience.
  8. Trigger jobs? I figure that if the polishing, new adjustable grip set screw, and JP springs don't do it for me then I'll just purchase a drop in. It was more about the experience of having done it myself than anything else. I build for a living, every aspect of construction, so I thought that I could handle polishing a FCG. Guess that I was wrong, because I didn't foresee the trouble of stoning off the case hardening.. Like I said before, you live and you learn, and at least I didn't destroy a $200 trigger! Now I know what not to do, I tend to learn better from my mistakes than accomplishments anyway, it's the way of the construction world, real world experience wins hands down every time! Thanks for being upfront about everything, it's greatly appreciated.
  9. Very true, what I meant was that I lightly took down the harsh edges and machine marks, hence removing metal/material.. You are correct sir!
  10. Well I've done all of my own smithing on all of my guns, I guess that it must've been the black rifle bug that got me. Just wanted to lighten up the trigger and do it myself, next time I'll be sure to just buy an aftermarket trigger. I had no idea of the complications that could arise from polishing a FCG, I guess that you live and you learn. Thanks guys, I'll send away for another EPT.
  11. Yeah I only chamber a round when at the range so a negligent discharge at home won't be a possibility. I'll replace the EPT after my next range session, one trip to the range shouldn't produce excessive wear to the point of failure, or at least I hope not. I really didn't polish all that much off, only a couple of swipes on the stone to take the machining marks down a bit. Thanks for your advice, I'll order another FCG pronto!
  12. Would you feel comfortable firing the gun in it's present condition? I don't foresee any catastrophic failures in my near future because of the polishing, but I do expect excessive wear, or at least accelerated wear. Pretty sure that it'll be okay for range use, I'll just be sure to replace the FCG if I plan on using it for home defense purposes. I'll pick up another EPT from PSA in a couple of weeks, until then I'll heavily monitor the wear just to be on the safe side.
  13. Throw the old PSA EPT in the trash, or take it to the range and fire it a couple of times for the Hell of it?
  14. Indeed. I was careful not to remove any metal, but I may have removed the case hardening or NiB coating in the process. I guess that time will tell, I'll fire it at the range and keep a close eye on it. If I notice any unusual amount of wear then I'll retire the FCG altogether and purchase a better one. I guess that you live and you learn! :D
  15. I lightly polished it by hand with a fine stone, just enough to remove the machine marks that were left there by PSA. It feels much smoother now and I was sure not to remove any metal when polishing. I couldn't believe the amount of marks on the engagement surfaces that were left by Palmetto State Armory, I was under the impression that it was polished before applying the NiB coating, but unfortunately someone must've forgotten to polish the mating surfaces on my FCG. Would it be better to just order another, or would it be okay to use at the range until I start to notice a considerable amount of wear? Thanks for your honest criticism, I should've taken all of this into consideration beforehand.
  16. I'll hit the range with it and see how it goes, I'll most likely replace it with another aftermarket trigger in due time, but for now I'll tinker around with it. I'll make sure to inspect all parts for wear and tear as time passes, if I notice anything negative about the way it fires then I'll just retire the fire control group and purchase another.
  17. Yeah, I was a little afraid of that. I slowly stone polished the engagement surfaces by hand to remove the machine marks, then cleaned it up and threw it back into the rifle. The fire control group still has very little creep and an even cleaner break now, I just hope that the case hardening holds up. I'll keep my eye on the wear and tear, hopefully no problems in the future. Planning on throwing on some JP springs to lighten the pull, and a grip screw trigger adjuster to take the creep out. After that I think that I'll just purchase a better trigger, it was more about the experience of it all.
  18. If I stone polish the engagement surfaces on a PSA EPT will I remove the NiB coating from the fire control group, or does it really matter? Any information would be appreciated, happy shooting.
  19. I had a question pertaining to a DIY trigger job that I wanted to perform on my AR-15, I was wondering if a DMT single sided Diafold Sharpener would work to smooth the engagement surface on the fire control group. It's a fine sharpener that should work, but I thought that I'd ask someone with more knowledge before I did so. I've been practicing with it on an old mil-spec fire control group that came with my rifle, so far so good, but I thought that I'd inquire just to be on the safe side. As always, happy shooting and thank you in advance for any information, it's greatly appreciated.
  20. I was speaking of the Hornady 5.56mm 62 grain TAP barrier ammunition, I was also wondering if MK262 performs well against light barriers.
  21. Currently running a 1/7 twist, 16" stainless middy and would like to know which of these would sufficiently defeat light barriers. I know that the MK318 was designed to do this so I probably answered my own question, but I thought that I'd inquire anyway. I saw some of this ammo on sale on PSA's site and would like to know what the best barrier blind ammo would be for a 5.56 chambered AR15. Take into consideration that I know that there are many different TAP loads, I was speaking primarily of their barrier blind variety. Any information would be appreciated, Happy Shooting! If you can then shoot me a list of the best 5.56 barrier blind loads to take into consideration! Thanks!
  22. I'm proud to say that it's working like a champ, the cleanup is a breeze, and the rifle feels smoother now when fired. Glad that I picked this little gem up on sale from PSA, it was well worth the money
  23. It's a fighting rifle/range toy. I already ordered the PSA Premium NiB BCG that comes with a carpenter 158 bolt, I suppose that I could always replace the bolt later on if I wanted to. I really just wanted a backup, or to switch it out with my original parkerized BCG. To tell you the truth it really just came down to looks and ease of cleaning, I'm sure that the original BCG was just fine, although I'd prefer to have the 9310 bolt due to it being 7-8% stronger than it's carpenter 158 counterpart. Thank you, guys! Happy shooting.
  24. I had a question if someone out there could help me clarify, my issue is with the line of NIB BCG's produced by Palmetto State Armory. I purchased the Premium 5.56 NIB BCG and wondered how it differed from their PSA Complete NIB BCG, I'm pretty sure that the PSA Complete NIB BCG offers a 9310 shot peened bolt as opposed to the Carpenter 158 bolt that is offered with the Premium package. Will I see a dramatic difference between the two, it's my understanding that the PSA complete NIB package that comes with the 9310 bolt is a tad stronger than the carpenter 158 bolt that comes with the premium. Any info would be greatly appreciated, happy shooting!
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