Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Salt Lake, UT
  • State and Country Flags
  1. 800-x, in my experience, Does not yeild a very low velocity spread in my 1911 10mm.. Even when trickled with my electronic powder thrower (Hornady), I think the average spread is 30 feet (at least). Don't have my notes in front of me so don't quote me on that. Right next to 800X, in the burn rate chart,..is imr sr4756. I have some of that, and have never opened it. Does anybody out there know much about it? It has to measure better than 800x,. Since it's sitting next to 800x on the burn rate chart,..I would think someone may have done some workups on it (but not IMR since I see no "imr" loads for 10mm using sr4756.). I thought I might try it before I just switch back to power pistol. Anybody out there have any experience with SR4756?
  2. My understanding is that there was a time when there were no "magnum" primers. I do believe that due to the obamashortage,...darn near everyone in the country used any primer in any place it would fit...and they found out it worked. There have been articles written on using magnum primers only (with rifle) and skipping "normal' altogether. They were very convincing. The champion rifle target shooters seem to say you want the least primer possible THAT WILL STILL IGNITE THE LOAD... They say they get a smaller deviation that way. I guess primers are not near as consistent as handloads are..So you want to keep the primer out of the equation if possible (if you are a competition target shooter). When I pick strays up off the floor,..I just throw them in a bag. WHen I get enough I'll do a batch of plinking rounds lighting off unique or something like that.
  3. I am in the crowd that will use a dispenser to charge to about 95 percent,..then trickle the last 5 percent in with a trickler. I have some 800x but haven't used it yet. I need to set it up and see how much I hate the metering. I do believe that my old ideal powder thrower with the little ball to "bang" it after each thow...may be of some help with 800x. I really don't hear anything fun about trying to meter that stuff.
  4. Here's one for you...or anybody else... I've never gotten a straight answer in many years. "never copy somebody elses loads"...Does this "somebody else" include Federal? for instance.. Or winchester, etc.,.. Case in point. The original 357 mag load was 15.3 +/- (if my memory is correct) grains of 2400...over a gas checked 158 gr. swc. There were no other watered down loads like they have nowadays. I do believe from time to time federal will still publish this (or something close)..even though most other loads are watered down like you can't believe. Same is true for the 44 mag. and 2400. Seems to me like there should be a caveat there that if you duplicate factory loads with the same factory components...you are no different than factory except you have the ability to be more (or less) consistent. I do not have a go to load for 10mm yet... So I hope this thread chugs along for quite a while. There sure isn't a lot of info out there...that's for sure...And I no longer live close enough to a range that I can drag my chrony over there every weekend and dial in a nice load.
  5. Kaboom's can be mostly eliminated if you use a slower powder. I believe I read somewhere that there was a court case where someone was suing an ammo. mfgr. over a 44 mag kaboom. I think in court the defendant stated that they only used H110 in their 44 mag loads and that it was not possible to get enough h110 into the round to blow it up. That statement is a little bold,.. but I believe it is probably a true statement. I read of one instance where a lady brought a 44 mag blackhawk into a gunsmith because something was wrong... I think he found around 4 or 5 bullets in that barrel.....IT NEVER BLEW UP!.. He cleared the bullets and gave the gun back. Most kabooms I have heard of had to do with small charges of fast powder... And the person doing the loading always swears he didn't double charge. I know of one instance where a 30-30 went kaboom with factory ammo and the only weird thing was that the ammo was in a truck window in the hot summmer.... It was nearly too hot to touch. So...I guess you could blame that one on temperature. After hearing that I never leave ammo where the sun can shine on it through a truck window. A friend asked me to chrony one of his handloads in his 1911 45 auto. I think it was a 225 grain or so. It was a very stiff load. I shot one round and it chrony'd at 1450 fps... I handed him back his gun and told him that either the chrony picked up a bug or something....or he didn't have the powder charge in that he thought he did. Within a week of that incident he had to send his 1911 back to taurus because it quit ejecting properly... I think he had messed up a part and they replaced the part and sent it back.
  6. I shoot 180s, but I haven't been into it for very long. I had, for a long time,..always ran extra heavy with my 44 mag (over 300 gr.)..but my son didn't like the kick and I've since went back to 240s. I think I've got at least 1000 300s loaded up that may never get shot. I always do full power loads...or close to full power anyway. With the 180s and the 10mm I think I'm doing around 9 to 9.3 power pistol... I do have some 800x that I haven't done anything with yet.
  7. Where I'm at sometimes I can get alliant easier than hodgdon...but sometimes it's the other way around. 2400 has been pretty iffy for a few years...but I don't think hodgdon is making a wannabe 2400 are they? It has a lot of strong points that H110 does not have.
  8. My opinion is that Glock made that decision as a legal one..or possibly just because they didn't want to field questions, etc.,.. There are many stories of lead being shot in glocks.
  9. I use the FCD on nearly everything...but if you crank it down too much it's not a good thing. I think the optimum thing would be not to use it,..but I don't have the patience to make sure everything else is as it should be... It sure can help a lot.
  10. I've got a bunch of 800x but haven't yet tried it in my 10mm. I'll load some if the weather warms up...and take my chrony and see what I get.
  11. I've read many articles that state that you should use the minimum primer required to get good ignition. ANything above this will increase your standard deviation. For me...most 10mm get regular pistol primers.
  12. One thing that has not been mentioned (and is not mentioned very often in reloading forums) is metallurgy. It is a known fact (at least I think I've known it for many years) that when using most powders...there will nearly always be a point reached where you will get decreasing amount of velocity increases for each increment of powder...Then, at some point,..you will start to get negative returns or..at minimum..sporadic returns. I think this is more true for rifle powders than handgun,...but it still true to a certain extent with handguns. Steel will not stretch until it reaches a certain pressure point. When it reaches that point it will be at the same pressure each time. As the pressure increases beyond that point the steel will start to temporarily stretch...but since steel is very elastic,..the still will spring back when the pressure is relieved...So...no harm done,..and you've now increased the pressure beyond the steel stretching point and gotten a little more out of your weapon. (incidentally...the torque values listed for bolts are usually the point at which an engineer has determined that the steel is at that point stretching..and therefore pushing back...with less of a change of coming loose). HOWEVER....you can only go a certain amount past the stretching point before your stretch NO LONGER returns to it's original shape...and, of course,..a bit beyond that "beyond" and you have blown up your chamber. It is my opinion that when your amount of return per increase in powder starts to fluctuate a bit,..you are now at the "stretching" point.. In VERY OLD ancient reloading manuals,.. I believe they used to state that the best way to find your max load is to slowly increase your powder (with all other things equal) and in the beginning you have a straight line on your graph (velocity vs. amount of powder).. But the top of the graph will start to level out..it will look like the top of a bell. You can find the top...and then back off a little to be safe. I believe this is no longer in any type of manuals and hasn't been for way over 50 years. I'm guessing there were too many guys that wanted to make sure there wasn't another top of the bell curve that they hadn't seen yet..but I digress). Of course,...the above is just an added dimension to all of the different variables in reloading. Your powder is a greater variable. Some powders start to give you more return (per given amount of increase in powder) when they are compressed..... And it is well known that some of the faster pistol powders are very dangerous if you start to compress them (usually the faster ones..not the slower ones like H110 or 4227)., Ok, take what I say with a grain of salt...but it is an overlooked variable... Even though we'd all like to think that there are ansi standards for pistols requiring the weapon to burst at a minimum of 4x the stated safe pressure...pistols don't work that way. I believe (when a manufacturer will actually admit it) that most of them will blow sky high not long after you are around double the stated safe pressure..if not sooner.)...I would expect that you should be more careful if you are not using an american gun. I know most semi auto's don't necessarily blow up..they just bust slides, etc.,.. I mic'd the chamber walls on my Ruger p90..45 once,... And I think they were within a couple thousands of an inch of some of my 44 mags...So,..basically, within 1 or 2 percent. Also mic'd a 1911 or two but can't remember how thick the walls were.. OK, Just my 2 cents.
  • Create New...