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Everything posted by Gasbar

  1. Gasbar

    $600 AR-10!

    I have both, and love them both equally. The M1A is cool in an old school steel and wood way, and I have 100% confidence in it to be SHTF option. Plus the Garand/M14/M1A have the best factory irons every put on a rifle. Mine is in the original 22" standard configuration. My 16" 308 AR is just a blast. Big boom, in a small handy package. Way easier to swap parts/mod the way I want, and way easier to put optics on. Mine has been 100% reliable through it's life, others have not been so lucky, as it can be a finicky platform. My buddy has a Socom 16, and after a long range day with 16" .308's my AR is less fatiguing to shoot. The recoil impulse on it is softer and different than the M1A. My M1A was $1000+ new, I don't have more than $500 (minus optics) into my 308 AR................sort of. I traded an old import marked beater M1 carbine for it at the LGS that I paid $300 for a long long time ago, and I only had to pay sales tax/transfer fee, and for the parts my LGS uses to make them NYS compliant (mag lock, extended rear take down pin, and 10 rd pmag to fixed into the rifle). After adding some magpul furniture to replace the plain jane factory stuff, a rear BUS, getting rid of the railed Alum. gas block for a pinned FSB, and adding some reliability enhancements to the BCG that long time 308 AR users recommended, I have a rifle that runs like a top, and shoots excellent for not a lot of money.
  2. My 20" AR is an iron sight's only rifle. Pinned FSB with an LMT A2 style rear sight w/o the carry handle. I love it. The rest of my AR's wear either red dots, or low powered scopes. Not a fan of big magnification nor does anything above about 4x suit my needs/shooting style. My other iron sight only rifles are my old school stuff....Garand, M1 Carbine, M1A, etc...
  3. I do, it's not my "go-to" but it works well for 9mm and 45 acp. When I am loading with 800x I get out the old Lee Dippers, as I have found it the best way to handle that powder. Published load data for 9mm and 45ACP using 800x is laughable at best. I found the .7cc dipper which throws about 6.5 grains of 800x works excellent with no pressure signs for 115gr RN plated Xtreme 9mm. The same dipper with 45 ACP using 230 grain RN Xtreme plated bullets makes a very, very mild load that has always functioned my 1911's and other 45's flawless, and my wife likes shooting that load a lot better than my (and everyone else's) standard 5 grain bullseye load with the same bullets. It's just such a PITA to load fast and in volume when your having to dip each charge. The saving grace of this powder is that it's cheap, and during the powder panics always seems to be available as it's often overlooked by a lot of pistol handloaders. Some people will say it leaves behind a lot of un-burnt powder, but I don't think it's any better/worse, or any dirtier than most, it's just that the flakes are so huge that you can see any un-burnt ones very easy. My "go-to" powder for 9mm and 45 is Bullseye, followed by HP-38, then 800x.
  4. I bought 15 rifles from the CMP ( a mix of Garands, carbines, 03's, 1917's) between 2001-2007. I have kept my best/favorite 2 (one Garand, one Carbine) and they ain't going anywhere. I'll play the wait and see game on these. I would like to pick up one more Garand to convert to 308 now that I have other .308's to share ammo with.
  5. Are you trying to knock them out in the right direction? They only go one way if they are the usual taper pins used on 99.9% of FSB's. Most of the time they GO OUT from left to right, you should, by looking at the heads of the pin see that one end is slightly bigger than the other.
  6. I own and have used the plastixrevolution ones for several 308 barrel installs, works great. For 5.56 barrel installs, I have borrowed my buddies magpul bevblock and it's the cat's meow.
  7. Bushnell AR optics are very good for the money. IMHO they are better than Vortex in that price range. Once you get above the $300 range the Vortex's start to shine. The Bushnell 1-4 x 24 second focal plane, model # AR91424 can be had for less than $150 most places, and combined with an Aero Precision LW mount, is a hard "budget" combo to beat.
  8. FWIW...I have loaded 10's of thousands of 223 rounds for my AR's and have never needed small base dies, even with using unknown sourced range brass that may or may not have been MG fired. Now, 308, that's a different story. I don't have small base dies for that either, but I avoid MG fired brass like the plauge, as I have had issues with it in the past. If I stick to non-MG fired brass everything is just fine.
  9. Thanks... Other than that, has the block held up well? Side adjustment is of no concern to me, I was eyeballing the receiver height railed gas block they have for a 300 build upper that's using a traditional drop in handguard/delta ring set up with a 16" carbine gas barrel, and wanted an adjustable block to dial it in if I ever decide to run subs in it, as I have read/heard carbine length gas and subs often don't work well together with out an adjustable block.
  10. I have been interested in the BTE, can you tell me what you don't like about it?
  11. My .02 I am not in the camp of "don't bother wasting your time loading plinking ammo" BUT.............it only makes sense if you buy in bulk, and use free brass. I make all my plinking ammo out of once fired brass that I pick up from the range that I either bought as new factory ammo and fired myself, or was given to me by other shooters. Buying brass to load into range fodder kills the savings aspect, which is slim to begin with. Then there is the time factor.... Some people put too much value on their time. Sitting at the reloading bench making plinking ammo is fun, and beats the heck out of watching TV. It's also a good skill set to have, just in case you ever really need to use it. Just don't waste too much time with it. Making a safe, reliable, accurate load for blasting with an AR is not difficult.
  12. That would be handy to keep in the truck and for the boat trailer tires, and I do have Ryobi tools...Thanks!! I didn't know that existed.
  13. Primary arms is GTG. Troy...................I'd rather not give them any of my money for personal reasons that will remain kept to myself (a google search will give you a clue). That being said, from all accounts, Troy makes quality products. It's up to you if you want to support them.
  14. Gasbar

    New guy here

    From one new guy to another welcome. I have only been here a few days, but so far it's been a friendly place, with knowledgable people. I am sure you'll find all the info you need for your build/purchase. Have fun.
  15. I have never bought plated bullets for loading 30 carbine, because I was always told to keep plated bullet velocities under 1500 FPS. And 30 carbine is NOT a cartridge that lines up powder wise real well out side of that 1800-1900 FPS window that it was designed for, nor do M1 carbines cycle real well with powder puff loads (so I have been told). Most of my loads are high mid range to near max (it's soft shooting to begin with) and some powders like H110/W296 you are told to not under load EVER. As a plinking toy, a lb or two of powder and a 1000 FMJ bullets lasts me a long time, as I do most of my blasting with AR's and 9mm handguns, so the extra cost of FMJ bullets isn't too much to me. The last batch of FMJ bullets I bought were Armscor 110 grainers from Graffs , 500 for $57.45 + $7 shipping. I buy all my plated handgun bullets from Xtreme, and their 30 carbine bullets were $50/500 + shipping. The cost difference wasn't enough for me to worry about using plated and pushing them too fast.
  16. I cured BRD in the early 2000's when I contracted CMP/Garand flu....and the only way to get rid of that was to get BRD again. I once thought I was on the road to recovery when I got Handgun virus, but BRD reared it's head and took over again. Now I have all of them at once.
  17. Excellent choice on the LW operator....that gun is on my "must have list", it's one I fondle every time I go to a LGS that has one. I was like you OP when I was looking for a 1911 many years ago, kinda of in the dark on them other than knowing what they were. I decided at the time, because they were never cheap, to save my $$$ and just get a Colt when I had enough and be done with it. They may not be the best anymore, but they are far from the worst. A classic plain jane Colt is a fun gun to have, and there is just "something" about having a Colt 1911. On the other hand, my other 1911, the Ruger SR1911 5" gun is fantastic, especially what you get for the money. When I got a second 1911 (the Ruger) I went with something a little different than the Colt. The Ruger has a Novak sights, beaver tail, and other little add on's the Colt lacks, and I like it that way....My next 1911 purchase is going to be a 9mm commander, or a 5" 45, with a rail (LW range officer operator like yours OP)....I can't decide yet. Let us know how the LW operator shoots for you....I'm jealous already
  18. My 1911's get a film of grease on the frame/slide rails. And by film, I mean film. I don't want to see it, but I want them to feel greasy/slick. Grease stays put, oil runs. Then the locking lugs on the top of the barrel get a drop of CLP on them spread around with my finger, where the bushing and barrel meet gets a drop of clip spread around with my finger, and that's about it. I don't go out and shoot 1000's of rounds in one range session, but sometimes put 300 or so through one, and the grease/clp is always still doing it's job when I am done.
  19. I spend late Nov- late March reloading, shooting, and doing "gun stuff", but then the switch flips and it's all bass fishing all the time until the next fall. I fish a lot of small local tournaments, and run a local weekend + after work evening team trail on my home lake. I am usually on the water 2-3 nights a week after work, and at least one full day every weekend rain or shine. I am lucky to have a couple of great smaller lakes (Silver and Conesus) in my backyard that offer fantastic smallmouth and largemouth fishing.
  20. I am here just because I am a big fan of AR's and like to talk about them non-stop. I lurked for a while, and this place seemed very friendly, unlike other AR forums, so I joined.
  21. I like the Aero Precision light weight 30mm mounts, and Primary Arms 1-6 scope with the ACSS reticle for a varible power optic. For fixed power, I also like the Primary Arms 2.5x and 5x prisim scopes, also with the ACSS reticle, they come with mounts and are of decent quality and rock solid. My 308 AR wears the 1-6 in the Aero mount, I have a 16" 5.56 carbine with the 2.5x prism, and my 20" 5.56 rifle has the 5x prism on it.
  22. If your talking about a standard front sight base with taper pins here is what I have done to get them out without mangling things: #1 spray a little penetrating oil on each pin and let sit for a while... #2 buy the brownells front sight removal/installation block...it's not that expensive and saves a lot of grief and swearing. If your only going to use it once, you can sell on ebay or something once your done and get most, if not all your money back out of it. #3 MOST taper pins are installed from right to left, that means the go out left to right. Place the FSB in the block, on a firm surface, and give each one a hard whack with the right size punch. Sometimes it takes a couple whacks to get them broke free, but once they are they come out fairly easy. DO NOT beat on them endlessly if they don't budge....flip it over and try the other way because sometimes they are put in from left to right. #4 once it they are out, you'll need to take off your muzzle device. I like to use barrel blocks and clamp as close to the muzzle as possible to avoid putting any unwanted torque on the upper or barrel extension index pin. An A2 flash hider can be taken off with a 3/4" open end wrench. #5 Once the muzzle device is off, the FSB should slide right off. You might have to "help" it off the journal if it's been on there forever, a couple whacks with a rubber hammer, or a block of wood does the trick. OR.........you can just dremel the sight tower off and smooth out /round off the area with a file if you want to keep it as a gas block that's pinned in place.
  23. WNy....Wyoming county, about 50 miles south of Rochester, 50 miles east of Buffalo and 70 or so miles north of the PA border. As soon as the kids are finished with school.....we are leaving NY. Texas is on my short list. Firearms freedom and bass fishing...right up my alley. Plus I'm a truck driver, I could find work hauling ice at the south pole.
  24. I reload both. They are both pretty easy, and obviously 9mm is cheaper. The nice thing about both cartridges, is they have been around FOREVER, and there's a lot of well established loads published for them. Pick one and go to town, and you'll be making safe accurate ammo in no time.
  25. I have had good results with Hodgdon Lil' Gun, and also IMR 4227 when I have been out of H110/W296 and it's been out of stock or backordered where I buy it. But H110/W296 is still my "go-to". I usually use 15 grains of H110/W296, 14.25 grains of Lil'gun, and 13.5 grains of IMR 4227 with 110 grain Hornady FMJ 30 carbine bullets, and they function flawlessly in my 1943 Winchester.
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