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  1. porterdavid98

    Bushnell TRS 25

    Ah, last six months? Well, my last one probably a year plus. However, I had no reason to think the new one was a fake, but it does infact feel a little different but not really cheaper. Performance wise? Better than my abilities in each case. I tend to be a little rough on my guns and I consider the sights disposable if something happens but I swear by these as tough and reliable. If I had one of the $750.00 more expensive type of red dot my enjoyment factor would downgrade to more stress. I personally don’t think anything more expensive than my TSR 25s would help me much. Just my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. porterdavid98

    Difficulty Mating Upper to Lower

    Well I assume you first verified the pin hole in the upper allows easy insertion of a pin without the lower being involved. If yes then of course the issue is alignment of the assembly (lug and pin) are the problem. While this sounds like a undesirable situation some would say it allows for a custom fitting of the upper and lower better (tighter) than most. I would be one of those liking to be able to adjust this fit to minimize that annoying wiggle. If this is an alignment issue you should be able to see what direction is off by a few thousands. Take a careful look and post back what you find. A little effort perhaps with a reamer might fix your problem. I have seen a very common problem with 80% lowers pinching the lug not allowing full insertion of the lug causing this type of misalignment as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. porterdavid98

    barrel nut torque

    Aluminum is strong enough to handle 70 ft lbs. so from my perspective this is not a concern. However, I would never feel the need to replace a barrel nut after several barrel changes and re torquing on a steel barrel nut. Yet, I would consider changing a aluminum barrel nut that has been reused for multiple builds or barrel changes if using torque values above 55/60 ft lbs. Reasoning is aluminum stretches a little each time and over time you might experience some problems. The point to be made here is the whole idea of torque values in the first place is to assure a rock solid mating of the barrel to the upper receiver. A good gun Smith will recommend you recheck tightness after shooting the gun for 500 rounds or more. Many of my most serious builders and shooter friends also bed the assembly with “green” locktite. Which kind of glues everything together so to speak but factory made guns do not do that nor do military weapons do that. Perhaps one last piece of advice. Make sure you lubricate the threads of your barrel nut and work your torque process tighter and tighter in small increments to let all the parts align properly. Any torque value above 35 ft lbs should be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. porterdavid98

    barrel nut torque

    There will be several opinions on this. In my opinion I have had good results torquing to 45/50 for my builds with a non indexing barrel nut. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. One more curiosity for me. If in fact you wound up building without a muzzle brake, how were you going to finish the end of the barrel? Leave the threads showing, cut those off or what? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Well I think you have answered your own question. In my opinion you are correct in that a lightweight bcg even when paired with a tuned gas block will have very little to do with perceived recoil kick. Your question number one can be fielded by someone else. Regarding your compassion to shield someone along side from your muzzle brake blast that is mighty nice of you. I have several different muzzle brakes that each direct that blast differently. Most direct the strongest part of the blast upward in an attempt to hold the barrel tip down, limiting barrel rise. But you are right, I have felt the blast when standing to the side of someone else. You might want to avoid the more common “bird cage” styles. The designs that deal with the visual flash won’t help with perceived recoil. Yes your comment about the leverage from any weight mounted on the end of a barrel will be noticeable but again not very helpful either way with perceived recoil forces. Good luck to you, under 5 pounds is really unusual congrats. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I hesitate to comment on this one. First why the firm stance against a muzzle brake/flash hider? Weight saving? Second: have you ever shot a 38 special snub nose air weight pistol? Kicks like a mule. Compared to a 357 Magnum full frame. Much more power in the Magnum but not as much kick compared to the light weight 38. From my side of your situation you are too concerned about carry weight and can’t have it both ways. Perceived recoil kick will always be greater in a super light weight build...period! The muzzle brake/flash hider will have almost no noticeable effect in your hands for actual shooting feel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. porterdavid98

    AR-15 BCG Getting Stuck in Buffer Tube

    Did I lose something trying to understand this post? Are you thinking the Cerokote has or has not changed the fit in the interior dimensions? I have done powder coat and that was a problem but not with Cerokote. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. porterdavid98

    Odd .22LR Conversion Situation

    The bench mark for 22 lr performance for me is the Ruger Precision. My understanding it has 1-14 twist rate and a 20 inch barrel. 100 yard accuracy? Why? But, not bad just a little too far for the most meaningful groupings. 3 inch groups are easy enough but not impressive in my opinion. 50 yards is much better for testing skill levels, again, in my opinion. Add to this mix your choice of sight and shooting stance. So what are your expectations? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. porterdavid98

    Odd .22LR Conversion Situation

    You know you are right and I messed up with my quick reply. You are correct the twist rate is the distance of barrel travel to rotate once. I fell in the same pit this subject always traps somebody. My turn, sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. porterdavid98

    Odd .22LR Conversion Situation

    One of my favorite topics, the 22lr conversions. First, ideal 22lr twist is indeed 1-16. That means 16 full twist in 12 inches of travel. More typical AR15 barrels twist less. Like 1-7 means 7 (seven) twist over 12 inches of travel. Less than half the number of revolutions in that foot. Reasoning is muzzle speed of a 556/2.23 is like 3,000 ft per second, with 22lr maybe 1/3rd of that. You could never rotate a 5.56 bullet that fast (1-16) so quickly. It would shear the sides of the projectile trying. Now from a practical point of view the accuracy of a 22lr conversion in a AR15 barrel is not to be expected sniper accurate. But, I had to smile at the soda can remark. I can plink soda cans all day long at 50 yards. Like 10 out of 10. Not quite that good at 100 yards, but gallon milk jugs perhaps. Even with my single shot 22lr Anshultz competition rifle 100 yards is not a reasonable distance. So back to the original issue on this post. There is something not being said to explain why a CMMG conversion will not fit the two 5.56 barrels being referenced. I have never, not even once experienced that and I would bet I have tried over 50 to 60 different AR15 barrels/guns. I have demonstrated the CMMG conversion process at gun shows and also at shooting camps, never had a problem. So I can’t explain it, sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. porterdavid98


    You shoot squirrels with a .223? Buy a inexpensive 22 long rifle conversion and plink away with cheap 22lr ammo. Still kills squirrels pretty efficiently.
  13. porterdavid98

    Bolt Carrier Group

    For my cheaper barrel I paid $49.00 from Primary Arms for a 16” carbine length with 1-7 rifling and for my Pro build I used a CMMG 16” heavy Diamond fluted Wilde with a 1-9 rifling rate and paid $239.00. For my dedicated 22lr barrel It was also a CMMG 16.1” 1-16 twist rate. That barrel was part of a package price but was around $160.00. My original post was just about twist rates. Now several thousand rounds later this describes my findings. Shooting .223 factory rounds through the first two barrels was a dead heat for my bench rest shooting from 25 yards out to 300 yards. Kind of puzzling though I got a fractional tighter grouping at 200 yards with the cheaper barrel. At 300 yards the Wilde barrel seemed a little tighter ( 1/4” )and more consistent but not enough for the money difference in my opinion. But damn that barrel is beautiful. Now shooting 22lr through all three? At 25 yards very little difference, and shooting out past 25 yards was a waste of time and by the time we got to 100 yards the higher twist rate was clearly better. So I guess I learned a little, the higher twist rate is noticeably better shooting 22lr past 25 yards. Now not that this is relevant, but for pure accuracy my Remington bolt action 22lr with a 20” Barrel is clearly more accurate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. porterdavid98

    Bolt Carrier Group

    This is a great opening for why spend money you don’t have for expensive parts that bring very little to the party. I built a very inexpensive AR with the least expensive milspec parts I could find. I also built a high quality name brand custom model that cost 3 times the money and even more than a Daniels Defence. Result? Only the trigger components could I tell any real difference. No trouble with the cheap bcg either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. porterdavid98

    weird barrel nut question, help!

    Of course you are correct. The guard inside threads would need to match the outer threads of the barrel nut. I have seen several and perhaps mostly either by luck or pure coincidence they did match each other. Now I could be wrong but so far I have not ever seen that style of barrel nut with a slim free float type of guard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk