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    Hebron, KY
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    Cars, guns, and Moxie
  1. Colin

    Anderson AM-15

    Love my Anderson. Eyeing RF85 parts for my next project :-)
  2. Colin

    Hello, new to the site

    Welcome. I'm jealous of your range choices. I go 20 miles for an indoor range, 30 for outdoor. And I'm sure there are many here worse off.
  3. I installed a JP 4 lb set Monday night and it does indeed bring the pull down to 4 lbs. I'll have to test to see if I get any light strikes.
  4. Didn't Harvey rape more people than the Vegas shooter killed?
  5. Just a quick note... as I mentioned before, the trigger pull was long, heavy, and creepy with gritty undertones. I took a short course in AR triggers and made several minor adjustments. First I shortened the trigger reset travel by making small, incremental changes to the hammer-disconnector engagement. I also removed a small amount of material from the front tail of the disconnector and increased the length of the disconnector spring a bit so that the primary sear engagement would be closer to 100% (stock it was only about 50% engaged). I then polished the sear and the disconnector engaging surfaces and removed rough edges from the disconnector. Finally, I set that take-up screw to set the trigger back to the point where the sear is 50% engaged, about where it was when I started. The result is shorter travel, smoother pull, shorter trigger return before disconnector drop, and a reduction in trigger pull weight from 6 lb 9 oz to 6 lb even, on average. I really like the improvements and the fact that I was able to get them without changing components. I want to get to about 5 lbs so that the pull is similar to what I'm accustomed to with my 1911, but the sear is positive (which I don't want to change) so I'll need to change springs to get there. For the gainsayers, I'll note that 1) I consult good quality gunsmith training, 2) bench test each change, and 3) test at the range, first with a single round in the mag and then with two rounds in the mag. I also have replacements for each of the fire control group parts and would not sell the rifle without putting the trigger back to stock. For me this is part of a learning process in gun mechanics. Buying a trigger off the shelf would defeat the purpose.
  6. It was a lot of fun. I only hope that I can do another in the not-too-distant future. I'm looking for a second income to support the habit. I wish I knew where all these addicts got the money for their heroine, 'cause building AR's get's into your veins pretty fast! So, here's the latest. I'm going to have to sell this thing before I lose the house :-)
  7. Colin

    Magpul UBR gen 2

    Why not just raise the scope? Risers are cheap enough.
  8. You are definitely a stormtrooper, but you're not quite ready to attack the rebel base on Hoth. You need to get this together. Snow will be flying soon up in Rapid City!
  9. Next up is the bolt carrier group. I don't know who made this rig. Is that a nitride finish? It came quite oily, especially the bolt. Was a little sticky and took some oomph to get things moving. After working it a bit and wiping in down with a rag, the action is nice and smooth. I did a test fit of the barrel and associated parts. All fit together well. Takes a lot of spinning to get the nut and fore end apart or together. Those are some fine threads. I should have skipped this step of fit testing. Took a long time to get that floater on there and back off, but I was curious to see how everything lined up. That foot-long cheese grater isn't too heavy and it looks sexy, but I'm not going to try holding it with a bare hand while firing. I probably spent 30 minutes taking it apart and reassembling it, but I felt better about it the second time. Torquing took a little time due to hole alignment fun. At first there was a clearance issue with the pivot pin, until I figured out that I forgot a step. The incidentals like the forward assist and the muzzle brake went fine, except that I did get the roll pin for the forward assist snagged on the spring at one point. A whack on the back end set it free and the pin went flush. Then it was time for some testing with the headspace gauges (Go was a go and No Go wouldn't close), so I put the bolt back together, assembled the carrier group, inserted the charging handle, and slid the carrier home with a solid click. I finally had an assembled rifle to test out. Woo! I loaded the fake rounds into the PMag and all five ejected into the same corner of the room, almost perpendicular to the rifle. Cycling seems fairly smooth and solid. I eased the carrier forward so that the bolt wouldn't lock and used the forward assist to finish the advancement, so the mechanical process works. I'll have to wait until Monday (if I can) to visit the range and finish testing. I'm curious to see if the gas system works. I don't like not being able to directly check the gas tube alignment to the barrel opening. I tried the compressed air method and air comes through, but I have no idea how much is enough. We'll see. So, here I am with a stupid grin, holding my M4 carbine, Frankenstein, parts bin AR that I built myself from a ratty plastic bag full of parts. The shirt says it all; it's a rat rod, but it has been fun so far.
  10. Colin

    Alright Kentuckians

    Looks like everyone in Kentucky went out to buy ammo a couple of years ago and never made it back. Anyway, I'n in Hebron, home of Anderson Manufacturing. Anyone know a good place to go shooting in the great outdoors. I'm kinda stuck in the 'burbs. I'm about ready to do some coyote hunting off my back deck.
  11. Time to get the parts laid out for the upper. You know, compared to an Olympus OM-1N, the AR is like a Pentax K-1000. So, the lower does not have a designation, meaning that I had my choice of what to build with it. I chose to do a carbine because I don't see the point of a .223 pistol, but I like a compact rifle. So here is the flat top upper with a 16" barrel and a quad rail. Sorry, but that gas tube looks really short. Must be the whole M4 thing. The allen wrench is for the gas block. That looks short, too. Now I know why they call this a "free-float" fore end. The front end of it is just hanging out in the air, not touching anything. Talk about your cantilever. While I'm thinking about it, I guess this is really an M4 carbine that I'm building. Is AR-15 an applicable term here? The more I read about it the most confusing it seems. I don't mind calling it "M4". That's a nice, short name. The M is square and the 4 has sharp angles, so it looks more masculine as a name. I was thinking of naming this rifle, so if I call it an M4 I'll need to pick a masculine name. Maybe I'll name it after a hippie/commie/socialist from the 60's. How about "Arlo"? Yep, I've turned the BEV block over in the vice and I got out the carpenter's pencil, which will help me to align the gas block over the hole in the barrel. There are a bunch of parts that have to line up on this upper. Time for a test fit session.
  12. The upper is complete. Everything works well and the Magpul grip feels pretty good. That probably just means it feels more like my 1911 Yep, feels a lot like my 1911. For the record, I didn't specifically ask for the engraved lower. It was what they had on hand. But hey, if the shoe fits...
  13. For the record, the catch is not Anderson. The upper and the lower are Anderson, but the parts kit for the lower is generic. The kit did not come from Anderson and it did not come with a lower. I'm not sure about the barrel, the quad rail fore end or the bolt carrier group, either. As for Anderson, they are a local company and some of my neighbors work there. I'm satisfied with their quality at their price point.
  14. The MIL SPEC, low-dollar parts will do the job, no doubt, and all it takes is a new recruit's paycheck to get a perfect drop-in trigger, but somewhere in between standard equipment and the perfect trigger lives a good polishing and a take-up set screw. Now, granted, what this does is just start pulling the trigger for you, but where it leaves you is with your finger on a trigger that is going to fire before your finger transfers tension over to the next joint. It really doesn't change the weight of the trigger, it just makes it feel more like my 1911, and about the same weight (~5.5-6 lbs). The set screw is inside the grip screw. Basically, you install the grip screw as normal, then turn in the set screw until the trigger is too far advanced to be able to set the selector switch to Safe, then back off half a turn. You apply blue Loc-tite to keep the set screw in position and there you go. You've taken up any slop and your trigger pull is shorter. Maybe you only saved yourself 1.5mm of travel, but those are millimeters you will never have to travel again. This is how far out mine sits.Yes, I'd rather have that $99 trigger. Maybe next build.
  15. The pivot pin and the trigger group went in easy. For the pivot, I found a pin in my junk drawer that is a slightly smaller diameter and has a hole through the end that the pivot pin detent pin passes right through. I just pushed it flush with a punch and turned the pin with the punch so the solid portion of the pin would hold the detent. Then I aligned the pivot pin with the groove toward the detent and slid it behind the other pin into the pivot. Easy peasy. I'd already taken the time to make sure the springs were correctly installed on the trigger and hammer. I used the bench block to get the trigger guard roll pin settled. I was all nervous about breaking a tab off the lower (saw lots of warnings out there), but it went together uneventfully. Now, everything I read said to hold the disconnect in the trigger while placing the assembly into the lower, but sometimes I question authority.I put the trigger in and held it in place from below and then used tweezers to place the disconnect in the correct position. Then I held the assembly in position from above while I ran a punch through to align things for the pin. The trigger pin went in easily, unlike the hammer pin, which took about four tries to get properly aligned in order to pass through the far side. Getting the springs in the right position was a breeze by comparison. I wanted to show a pic of the sear surfaces, which ain't easy. They are polished pretty well compared with the other surfaces and the spring itself. I could, and I may, polish them further, but I may also just use the paracord method of breaking them in a bit. I won't be shooting this rifle enough to break it in that way :-/ Speaking of ugly parts, this mag catch looks like floor sweepings. Nobody will notice this nasty catch, but I'll know and it will bug me. I ordered a new mag catch assembly from Anderson ($5). I also ordered two trigger guards that are laser engraved with US flags (on clearance at $5) and an Oops! kit ($6.13) just in case my springs or pins learn how to fly. Now, about tweezers; from my days in locksmithing, I still have a couple of pair of pin tweezers, seen below. They make working with pins sooooo much easier. Detent pins, trigger pins, roll pins, and ever springs are easier to hold onto if your tweezers are made for the job. And by "made for the job", I mean you take thin, flat tweezers and bend them around a small rod and make them into pin tweezers. Ball bearing tweezers are great, too (also in pic), but easier to buy than make :-) I kept mine from my days in camera repair. Never get rid of tools! I feel like I'm making progress on the lower. I got the buffer tube on and the nut torqued. The buffer retaining pin was no problem and the buffer and its spring look fine and are in place. I'll do a separate post on the grip so that we can have a nice argument about the silly adjusting screw that takes up the travel on the trigger.