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JimKim

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    Dodge Co, GA
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    Georgia (old)

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  1. WOW three 300's? I have one, and keep hoping I'll catch a deal on eBay and snag another 300, or 450 for $150.00 or less. An RL300 sold on there in Feb for around $130.00. It came with the powder measure and priming system. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  2. My mind. If there is a way to do it, I can usually come up with something. Thank God for the human brain. Second most favorite tool is my Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 2nd edition. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  3. There are several YouTube videos on converting berdan to boxer. I do it when I make 410 brass from FREE 303 cases. I don't get doing it with 223 though. It's not like they're hard to find. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  4. I always thought the powder Hodgdon started with was surplus 4895. Later in either the late 50's or early sixties, he got his hands on Ball C. I thought Ball C lot 2 came about around 63. By the way, I have seen pictures of early Hodgdon powder bags. Yep, it was sold in small paper bags, at one time. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  5. Before you start depriming brass, inspect it. The instructions will be in your manuals. Shine a light in the cases and look to see if they are Berdan or Boxer primed. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  6. I just use it on the case mouth. I use a primer pocket reamer to do the primer pockets. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  7. With the chuck and a cordless drill, you can run through a ton of cases in no time. That Lee chamfer tool really does work. My old style Lyman cutter(like yours) started chattering badly, so I tried the Lee thimble looking thing. I couldn't believe how well it worked. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  8. The starting data in the Sierra manual is safe to use with any bullet of equal or lesser weight, with the possible exception of the H110/W296 loads. I'd get Sierra, Lyman, and Hornady and/or Speer manuals. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  9. No harm. If you have any friends that are machinists, you can always have them turned into something useful, later. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  10. No need to send it in. You can do it yourself. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  11. Try cleaning or polishing it. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  12. Yes on carbide. I personally prefer Lee, CH4D, Hornady-Pacific, Dillon, Redding, Lyman, or RCBS dies. In other words, I'm not touching that "tar baby". Go with whatever you can afford. For handgun, I don't see much difference, with the exception of the ease of disassembly for cleaning, or the ease with which some brands will open your arm up, if you screw up while reaching for something behind your press. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  13. I think he is the most experienced person in the country, possibly the world, at removing stuck cases. I'm betting he is misusing One Stuck for lube as well. My second guess would be Loctite brand lube. Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
  14. This method will work with any die from which the decapping assembly can be removed from the top. You can also find the tap and bolt method, as well as instructions on using the built in stuck case removers in Lee, and Dillon dies.
  15. Contact Lee Precision and see if they can send you the instructions for the Lee Speed Die. They supposedly have them available for download. I tried to save them twice, and both times it came up blank. The speed die was discontinued a good while back. https://leeprecision.com/instructions.html Sent from my VS880 using Tapatalk
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