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  1. LOL. Yeah, there's some real bullshitters out there, that's for sure. I did get it sold. Laugh if you want but someone was selling used scopes that had been upgraded from a range. They were $20 each and pretty banged up. The one I got the battery housing is busted off, but I don't care about that. The picture quality is good but if it turns out this scope is a dud, can't hold zero or whatever, I can still use it as a spotter scope. But those new scopes that people were talking about earlier in this thread are awesome! I really liked the Strike Eagle. Can someone help me identify what I got? Like I said, it was only $20 and may end up just being a spotter scope. Thanks
  2. I appreciate everyone's feedback, but you are right. There's a gun show in San Antonio today. I don't plan on buying a scope but I will look at a lot of them to get an idea of what I like. I'm also have a Yugo SKS I'm trying to sell but this is an an AR board, I know.
  3. Thanks everyone for the feedback. I really appreciate it. I'm old school with my rifles. This is the first scope I've ever installed myself, so operator error is entirely possible. I'll get the scope zeroed in and after a while my shot group will start getting worse near the end of my shooting - usually around 200 rounds since I've been zeroing it in. Then the next time I go I have to re-zero it. Now that I thought about it more, I think it's not torqued down tight enough. The pencil idea is so good that it seems completely obvious now that you said it. Thanks for that. The rifle is still being broken in, so that's a possibility. I'm just trying to eliminate variables. I had this on a BCA Grendel upper for 500 rounds, but I decided to go to 5.56 and got a Ballistic Advantage .223 Wylde Hanson stainless steel barrel. (I changed the bolt for the caliber, of course.) I only have about 100 rounds in the new barrel but the zeroing problem was the same for the previous barrel. I'm new to scopes, as I said. If I had to do it all over again, I'd get something smaller that went to 4X. More than that seems unnecessary for the range I'm shooting at (300 meters/yards max). It's getting a little frustrating, though. Beginning to wish I had just stuck with iron sights but I'm sure I'll eventually get this sorted out. I just wanted to practice longer distance shooting than the 100-200 meters I usually shoot at. All my other rifles are old with wooden stocks. So far my 1944 Finnish Mosin Nagant is the most accurate thing I have but there's no way I'm ruining a piece of history by slapping a scope on it which is why I got a new AR for target practice. That, and I wanted something semi-auto and liked shooting the M16 in the Army. I'm almost afraid to ask, but if I did get a different scope, what's a decent mid-quality scope (less than $200) that's good for ARs and is 4X magnification? I don't like the dot in the middle. I think it obscures the target too much but that might also be me not being familiar with it. I wouldn't need anything with a battery. Kind of all over the place, I know. Sorry. Thanks for being patient with me.
  4. Well, in the interest of helping others, I'll admit what happened. It wasn't easy getting the roll pin in and when I did I moved the tube without realizing it and installed the tube upside down, so no wonder it didn't work. I now know to check that before putting it on the barrel...
  5. Got off work early so I decided to take it out to the range and it shot great and even cycled those rounds that were getting stuck with ease. Thanks everyone.
  6. Well, the gas tube is completely blocked somewhere, so there's not much of a mystery now. I just learned the hard way to check the gas tube before taking a new build to the range. I feel a little foolish, but, you don't know what you don't know and this was my first attempt.
  7. PS, why would the bolt be stuck after shooting that steel-cased Wolf 75 grain ammo? It moves back and forth just fine when I dry test it and the 62 grain didn't seem to bother it.
  8. It's a Mueller multishot. I bought it new at a gun show a few years ago. Love the sight picture but the thing is huge. It's mounted at the very end of my upper receiver because I didn't want to mount the front onto the rail.
  9. It does have set screws. I'm thinking more and more that the problem is the gas block and the gas tube. I'm going to see if I can blow air through it. Thanks for the replies, everyone. Much appreciated. It's been fun to mess with this and ARs are fun to shoot.
  10. Interesting. Thanks for helping me out. Is there a standard size for the gas block to gas tube?
  11. Looks like I need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-556-1-Inch-12-Pack/dp/B00HYK3QSC/ref=lp_16410421_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1572150223&sr=1-2
  12. There are two roll pins. One for the gas tube to the block and another under the barrel to align the block to the barrel. I couldn't get the original roll pin for the gas tube to fit and used another one. That might explain my problem. But the carbon is mostly coming out of where the gas block mounts to the barrel. Perhaps the tube I'm using isn't lined up rather than the block. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks.
  13. Hi, This is a pretty basic question but I've always shot iron sights so I'm new to scopes. I can't seem to keep my scope to hold zero. I was told I need to use locktight on the bolts, which makes sense, but since I have to do that anyway I was wondering what sight mounts you'd recommend that don't cost a fortune. I have a cheap Monstrum sight mount for my scope and I think I need better mounts. Thanks
  14. Hi, A little about me. I was in the Army in the early '90s, so I know about shooting/maintaining the M16 well. I'm mechanically inclined and have worked a lot on cars but this is my first attempt at gunsmithing. This is also my first AR15. Anyways, I replaced the barrel and bolt on my Bear Creek Arsenal 6.5 Grendel upper with a Ballistic Advantage barrel in .223 Wylde. The rifle fired fine but the bolt carrier group wouldn't move. The gas block came pre-installed but I had to remove it to get the barrel nut on. I noticed there was carbon around the gas block and someone watched me fire it and said you could see gas coming out of the block. I think the gas inlet on the block and the outlet on the barrel aren't lined up right but the weird part is that there is a hole on the bottom of the gas block and barrel and I put a roll pin through it. (It which it originally didn't have one.) Whatever reason, gas doesn't go from the barrel to the bolt carrier group and the bolt doesn't cycle when I fire it. I'm willing to send it in to have it looked at. I bought it from Arm or Ally but I was wondering if Ballistic Advantage would be more helpful or if I should take it to someone locally. I was using cheap Wolf ammo 62 grain because I was just breaking it in. I had to pull the charging handle back each time I fired but kept doing it figuring I'd sort out the gas issue later. I tried some Wolf 75 grain and it became really hard to pull the charging handle back. I stopped that after 4 tries and a lot of oil. I hope I didn't damage something. I was going to remove the barrel and blow into the gas tube to see if it's blocked. If it is I'll wiggle it to see if I can get more air flow. I suppose I could attach a rubber tube with a zip tie to the gas tube so that I didn't have to remove the barrel. Any thoughts? Thanks
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