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    South New Mexican Mountains
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  1. Cloudhunter

    10mm 1911 questions

    Hello everyone, another 10mm new guy post hoping you’ll share some info. I am an avid shooter, reloader and hunter. I recently added a Kimber TLE-II to my other 10mm’s, a Glock 20 and a 10” TC Contender, and I have questions about the way 10mm level pressure is utilized/absorbed/dissipated within the 1911 system. More specifically, I am seeking to better understand the relationships between recoil springs, firing pin springs, mainsprings and the firing pin retaining plate (I’ve read the posts pertaining to the EGW part swaps) if/when I change out those various parts. My experience with my G20 is a typical Glock experience, point, click, bang…regardless of the load. My TC is fun and can show what the 10mm is really capable of. I was recently confronted with a good deal on the Kimber, so I jumped, hence my questions. My immediate goal for my Kimber is to find a pair of 180 grain loads, one FMJ (1100 fps range) for practice and one JHP (1250+ fps range) for serious carry. Later, I’ll probably explore 165s and 200s but that’s for later. So far, range sessions with my Kimber have been good but needs improvement. Accuracy is great, what I expected from a tight fitting 1911. Reliability is good with various loads with the exception of the last round in each of 3 Kimber (9 round) magazines. Each malfunction is a failure to fully go into battery. The round appears to be caught at a steep angle, bullet entering the chamber and the web still held within the feed lips. Sometimes, a bump on back of the slide clears the malfunction, sometimes not. Limiting the mags to 8 rounds solves the problem. I expect to switch out the magazine springs for Wolff +power springs as a first option. I may try other magazines too. Thoughts? Ejection is impressive. Cases are consistently found 5 yards to my 4 o’clock position (factory FMJs). Heavier loads are in the same direction but maybe 15 yards away (not an exaggeration). Good thing I have a lot of brass. So, back to the reason for my post. Based upon my goals, I’m thinking I should add a stronger recoil spring. The factory spring (according to Kimber’s website) is a 16#er. This surprised me. Other posts seem to identify 20# or 22# springs as middle of the road and appear in line with my loading goals. If I go this route, how will this change affect the other parts I listed above (reliability, proper function, long term wear)? What other problems can I expect as a result of this change? I appreciate your input. Dan