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Everything posted by TigerStripe

  1. Addax GPU This is a breakdown of the piston parts of the Addax GPU. We begin with the gas adjustment knob. It has two purposes. The main function is access to the rest of the piston parts. It can also adjust the amount of gas vented through the gas piston for use with a sound surpressor. To begin breaking down the gas system the plunger lock must be pressed down or forward. That allows the adjustment knob to turn. Then, depending on which setting you have the adjustment knob at, you turn left or right. Either way the plunger lock should point up. As seen above. Once the plunger lock is pointing up, you can begin removing the piston parts. At this point all of the piston parts are contained inside the gas piston tube. All gas piston parts are shown in this photo. The parts are held together inside the gas piston tube by the cross pin. The cross pin is the silver piece in the first of two holes. Here is the cross pin alone. Once it is removed, the gas adjustment knob and gas piston can be taken out of the gas piston tube for cleaning or inspection. Above you can see the all of the piston parts disassembled. Once done cleaning and inspecting you start with the empty gas piston tube as shown above. You begin re-assembly by placing the gas piston back inside the gas piston tube. Then the gas adjustment knob is re-inserted into the gas piston tube. The gas adjustment knob is fully inserted and the cross pin is place in the first and largest hole. Notice how the cross pin has flat places on each side. If they are not aligned with the "flats" in that position the gas adustment knob will not re-insert completely. The gas piston assembly is re-inserted as shown. When done, the gas adjustment knob should have the same mark on the top side. In this case we have the "O" for open as when the disassembly began. TS Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 02/26/2013 02:42 PM
  2. Gear Sector GS 2P Weak Side [b][size=3]GS 2P Weak Side Attachment[/size][/b] _________________________ The Gear Sector Way Everyone knows I'm a Gear Sector user and that I have been one for a long time. I started out using an ASP before Gear Sector was known by that name. I was an original test and evaluation person on the SPRE prototype and I paid to do so. In this review I will show a GS 2P set up to be used "weak side" to similate a single point sling without the risk to the family jewels. I'll start out showing how to attach it the Gear Sector way. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P1.jpg[/img] Begin by running the adapter through the rear sling plate with the attachment point facing forward and the Ladder-Locs on top. The use of an SPRE is recommended unless you are using an M93 or UBR stock. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P2.jpg[/img] Here's a more close up picture of running it through the plate. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P3.jpg[/img] Now double the webbing back over itself and run it through both of the Ladder-Locs. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P9-1.jpg[/img] Double it back over once more, going over the first Ladder-Loc and then start to run the webbing through the remaining ladder lock. I use a small screw driver to help push the initial bit of webbing through the Ladder-Loc. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P10.jpg[/img] Pull the entire width of the webbing through as shown above. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P11.jpg[/img] Take up the slack left in the webbing. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P12.jpg[/img] Here it is completely tightened. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P13.jpg[/img] Repeat the process on the forward sling attachment as shown above. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2P14.jpg[/img] Now click each buckle of the sling onto the adapters and you're ready to go. _____________________________________________________________________ It is recommended to cut excess material off the adapters once attached. [size=3][b]GS 2P Weak Side[/b][/size] [b]Use[/b] In the other GS 2P review I showed the use of one as a "standard" or traditional sling. In this one I will show the advantages of using one set up to wear on the weak side. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak1-1.jpg[/img] Here it is in a firing position. Below shows a transition from carbine to pistol. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak2-2.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak3-3.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak4-4.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak5-5.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak6-6.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak7-7.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak9-9.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pweak10.jpg[/img] As you can see, it functions similarly to a single point sling without the worry a sling point brings. I showed a transition with a slight movement to the side for the transition. This isn't necessary, especially if you have it adjusted for a tight fit. The AR in this review is an Addax Gas Piston GPU. Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 12/23/2008 12:50 AM
  3. Gear Sector GS 3P [b][size=2]Gear Sector GS 3P[/size][/b] I was surprised when Jason from Gear Sector called me and asked me to do testing and evaluation of Gear Sector's new GS 3P (Beta Test version). As always it seemed to arrive in about thirty six hours. I played with it trying to decide what carbine to test it on. I thought about using it on the Daly D-M4 and then my frankengun but I ended up attaching it to my go to gun, the sixteen inch Addax GPU. And that's a great home for it. I'm sure you're wondering what is new about a sling, about this sling. Well as the nomenclature GS 3P suggests, it is a three point sling but more than that. It is also a single point sling... a three point sling that converts to a single point sling without removing even one part. First, let's look at how the GS 3P attaches to a carbine. It also has enough webbing to fit on a rifle or shotgun. When you remove it from the box it looks like this; [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2260.jpg[/img] The two ends of the sling and two Tri-glides. Set the Tri-glides to the side for a moment and lay your weapon with its right side on the floor, provided you are right handed. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2264.jpg[/img] You will need two sideways attachment points as seen on the Addax GPU above. A fixed front sling swivel or M4 side sling attachment will work. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2269.jpg[/img] Lay the sling with the Gear Sector logo facing the floor and insert the sling into the rear sling loop. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2274.jpg[/img] Continue until your sling gets to this point. It is important to have it arranged as above. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2281.jpg[/img] Pick up a Tri-glide and the loose end of the sling. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2282.jpg[/img] Double the sling over facing the rear of your weapon as seen above. Slide the sling through the bottom slot of the Tri-glide. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2225-1.jpg[/img] Take both ends of the sling. Insert the loose end of the sling up through the Loop-loc on the end with the logo. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2287.jpg[/img] Double it back over the Loop-loc and run the sling into the other slot of the Tri-glide. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2329.jpg[/img] Grasp the loose end and pull the logo all the way to the rear. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2298.jpg[/img] Take the second Tri-glide and slide the sling through both slots. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2231.jpg[/img] Insert the sling into the front sling loop and double it back through the second Tri-glide. Make sure to have a length close to the length between the sling loops on each end. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2307.jpg[/img] Double it back three times to be certain the GS 3P is secure. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2314.jpg[/img] Remove any excess webbing. Zip the logo all the way to the front to run the GS 3P as a three point sling. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2318.jpg[/img] Zip the logo all the way to the rear to run as a single point sling. [img]http://i860.photobucket.com/albums/ab170/tigerstripe1/firstkodakpics2336.jpg[/img] Like all Gear Sector slings the body of the GS 3P is made of one inch width tubular webbing which insures it will not dig in like many other one inch slings. The GS 3P is made in the USA. [b][size=3]Use of the GS 3P[/size][/b] Below I simulate the use of a Gear Sector GS 3P as an EOD technician might. The GS 3P is definitely not limited to EOD or medical personnel. Anyone wanting a more stable sling will like the GS 3P. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics2235.jpg[/img] Kneeling to check a suspicious patch of ground. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics2236.jpg[/img] Something has happened that caused me to change my focus to another possible threat. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics22372.jpg[/img] A separate threat has been identified and is about to be engaged. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics2239.jpg[/img] I have gotten to my feet, stepped away from the possible explosive device and I have begun to engage the target down range. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics22411.jpg[/img] Something has necessitated a switch from the strong side to the weak side shoulder. I pull the logo all the way to the rear. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics22631.jpg[/img] The weapon is lowered and is in the center of my chest preparing to switch from strong to support side. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics22641.jpg[/img] I have switched hand positions to allow weak side use and the weapon is moving toward the support side. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics22651.jpg[/img] The weapon is now on the weak side and I am engaging the threat again. If you dont like the instability of a single point sling but appreciate the flexibility one provides, the GS 3P is probably the sling for you. Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 06/29/2009 03:14 AM
  4. Charles Daly Defense D-M4 [size=3][b]CDD-15 D-M4[/b][/size] I received my Charles Daly D-M4 on Monday evening during a rain storm. I drove fast for the entire trip there. My FFL had gotten it in earlier and I had to call him to check on it because Michael Kassnar had told me it should have been there already. I had called and asked if he had received anything from Charles Daly and he said, “I think I do are you Tig...” I said yeah that’s me. Anyway I arrived safely, signed that beautiful form that we all love fill out and checked to see if everything was in the box was there and it was. Inside was an M4 flat top with carrying handle, a mag and what looked like some brochures. I drove home at an equal or greater speed to get a look at what I was going to be testing. I got home and immediately went to the “gun room” and removed the carbine from its hardshell foam lined case. Inside was a different flat top M4 than I was used to. The finish was a deep black but not Teflon like some nor spray paint looking black like some others. The finish is similar to an HK semigloss that’s just a hair less glossy. For black rifle lovers this is a very nice black that you will love. Now it was time to see how well it was made and do a detail by detail check. While admiring the black I began looking it over. The first thing I checked was the front sight base and the “F” was easily recognizable. I moved back to the carrying handle to be sure the sights I’ll be using would be sturdy and it was. The carrying handle is a standard A3 with the 6/3 minus one M4 rear sight. I looked towards the front and noticed that the heat shields in the handguard were black as well. I then looked over stock wondering if it used a commercial buffer tube or a mil-spec version. To check I used the Vltor stock from another AR but it wouldn’t fit. That was the first negative I found but it’s not a real negative as many stock manufacturers now make their stocks in both commercial and mil-spec versions should you decide to change stocks. I decided it was time to field strip it and see how well the internals were made so I pushed the take down pin and was surprised at the fit. The pin was snug but didn’t need to be pushed out with extreme effort or a punch. Which is just about perfect for field use. After having opened it up I removed the bolt carrier group and charging handle. The charging handle was the same beautifully evil black. I then removed the bolt carrier group I checked the gas key screws for staking. Many AR’s and M4's come with no staking or a cosmetic staking. The staking on the D-M4 was deep and actually extended into the gas key screws preventing walk out during extended fire.. The bolt carrier was lubed but not pouring out on my hands, just a nice coat to ship the carbine off the dealer. The bolt carrier itself is a chrome lined and parkerized. It also shrouds the firing pin which increases the life of the firing pin. Despite being parkerized it was quite smooth unlike some I’ve seen from other manufacturers. I reached for my pocket knife to remove the firing pin retaining pin when I noticed that it was a nice dark black. The pin wasn’t bent like some and came out easily by hand once clear of the recess where the head of the pin rests when assembled for use. Next I slid the firing pin out and found it was a normal AR-style firing pin, one of the few “standard” pieces in or on the carbine. Next came the cam and yet again it was a beautiful deep black unlike any I’d seen before. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1210262474/med_gallery_384_42_34225.jpg[/img] Proper Gas Key Staking Next came the bolt removal and inspection. I removed the bolt and some lube came out of the extractor area, not too much, but enough to fire it immediately after pulling it from the factory case. With the bolt removed it was easy to verify that the bolt carrier was chrome lined just as the bolt is. The last logical step is to check the extractor. The extractor pin was snug and wouldn’t walkout during hard use of the D-M4. I was able to remove the pin with a small punch to inspect the spring and insert. The spring is the extra power spring with the black insert. Also it came with the O-ring from the factory. The heavy spring and O-ring are what make the extractor snug, so you have two nice features that enhance each other. So the extractor and its constituent parts will make for a carbine with no extraction or ejection problems. The last thing I had to check was the barrel. The chamber and bore have a nice chrome lining and I’m a chrome or go home guy so that impressed me. As for the barrel itself it’s the same beautiful, evil deep black. On top of the barrel just forward of the front sight base are the markings; “5.56 Nato 1-9 CHROME”. It’s topped of with a USGI M16A2 birdcage flash suppressor. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1210262474/med_gallery_384_42_28821.jpg[/img] Pictures and my shooting impressions follow. Magpul was kind enough to send some of their new twenty round PMags so they will be tested along with the carbine. Also Gear Sector provided one of their new two points slings, the GS 2PS, for evaluation. At this point of my review I’m comfortable in saying that if I were to buy a carbine in this price range today, I would buy Charles Daly’s D-M4 over any other brand. [size=3][b]CDD D-M4[/b][/size] Shooting Impressions I took several trips to the range to get an idea of the practical accuracy of the D-M4 in its form straight from the factory by using the carry handle and factory front sight. I zeroed it using the green and white box Remington-UMC 55 grain FMJ round. Every other load shot to the left of the Remington point of impact. I used a variety of loads to see which I could advise as a beginning for D-M4 buyers. Among them were Black Hills 55 grain remanufactured, Hornady 55 grain TAP, Wolf M193, Prvi Partisan 55 grain FMJ M193 spec, Federal American Eagle 55 grain .223, Federal XM-193, and Winchester Q3131. All of them shot fairly well. The best loads were the Hornady TAP, Wolf M193, Black Hills remanufactured and Federal XM-193 in that order. I killed a lot of paper and Dr. Pepper cans with it. I put several hundred rounds through the D-M4 in this manner. I never had an issue with it during these sessions. When I was satisfied that I had determined the best rounds for it, I knew it was time for the torture test. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1212449754/gallery_384_42_916714.jpg[/img] One Shot One Kill [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1212449754/gallery_384_42_147648.jpg[/img] After Four More Shots [b][size=3]CDD D-M4 [/size][/b] First five hundred rounds of torture test Today I began the first run of my torture test of the Charles Daly Defense D-M4. Someone said that putting 2000 plus rounds through an AR type weapon wasn’t a torture test. They may have a point but with no cleaning and firing as many rounds as quickly as I have and will continue to do will definitely bring out any flaws and shake anything loose that isn’t on tight enough. For the first run I decided to use what I had left of the Adcom M855 ammo I had bought a few years back because it was the cheapest 5.56mm brass case ammo that one could find. I fired 540 rounds of this ammo. I had a bag of loaded mags including Charles Daly USGI aluminum, Bravo Company grey teflon D&H, C Products and Magpul Pmags. I loaded the first mag, which happened to be a C Products stainless, and began the test. On the twentieth round everything stopped. I flicked the switch to safe and took a look. There was a round in the chamber and one that was stripped out of the mag. I locked the bolt open, dropped the mag out and the second round fell out. I hit the bolt release and it hit home. I pulled on the charging handle and it was a no-go. I finally got the bolt back but the round was stuck in the chamber. This wasn’t a surprise to me. The Adcom ammo had done the same thing in my DPMS M4 with the original DPMS barrel and also with the same M4 with the CMMG M4A1 SOCOM barrel. I held the weapon while my dad knocked the round out of the chamber with a cleaning rod and hammer. I broke the D-M4 open and sprayed a little lube on the bolt carrier group. To reassure myself I loaded a mag of Wolf M193 and emptied it. I then reinserted the mag with ten rounds of Adcom left in it and emptied it. I inserted another magazine of the test ammo and emptied it. I continued to insert mags and empty them with single shots and double and triple taps. I was having fun and around the one hundred eighty round mark I had another malfunction of the same type. I also cleared it in the same manner as the first one. Again I loaded with a mag of Wolf M193 and emptied it with double and triple taps. Again there were no malfunctions with the Wolf M193. By this time I was sure it was the ammo and not the carbine. The gun was very hot at this point. The oil had cooked off of the barrel and it looked white. I stopped long enough to take a couple of sips of Dr. Pepper and insert another mag. At the 400 round mark the handguards were “warm”. In a little over an hour I had run six hundred rounds through the D-M4 with four identical stoppages, all of them having occurred with the Adcom ammo. The delta rings and front end of the upper receiver were hot but the D-M4 was still capable of going. All magazines functioned without a single malfunction. I doubt any civilian would ever run that many rounds through any AR for any practical purpose other than to test it, like I did. Again, I expected this ammo to have had failures as I had encountered them in the past. The D-M4 still hasn’t been cleaned. [size=3][b]CDD D-M4[/b] [/size] Second Five Hundred Rounds The second torture test took my father and I along with the D-M4 to our makeshift range in out deer lease. I had loaded a little over 500 rounds of Federal American Eagles 55 grain .223 in magazines of various manufacture. There were some of the same mags from the first test including all three thirty round Magpul Pmags, one of the C Products stainless magazines that has over one thousand rounds through it, four C Products stainless that were new, a few Charles Daly factory thirty round mags and one Colt twenty round mag. There were a few others but I don’t remember what the other few were. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1214453993/med_gallery_384_42_363494.jpg[/img] We drove out to the hunting club and the “range” and started getting ready to go hot. My dad asked if I wanted a target to shoot at... I thought on it for a few seconds and told him no because we weren’t testing accuracy. The mag bag was placed on the hood of my truck I reached in and grabbed a random mag and inserted it in the mag well. We both put on our hearing protection we both yelled to see if the other was ready and nodded in agreement to one another. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1214453993/med_gallery_384_42_2840.jpg[/img] I pulled the charging handle back and lit it rip a round off the mag. I started of with single shots for the first few and then went to double taps. It didn’t take long to empty the mag. I waited as my dad used his grabber to pick up the brass and put it in a pile. I grabbed another mag, inserted it and hit the bolt release. This time it was all double and triple taps. Even less time to empty. He picked the brass again. The barrel was smoking, and the handguards were a little more than warm. This continued until round two hundred(my dad was counting the shots/brass). On round two hundred I had a failure like the one from the first torture test. I released the mag and the round that tried to feed and they dropped to the ground.. The bullet was set back in the case. I laid that round on the hood of my truck. I pulled on the charging handle and surprisingly the empty round extracted. At this point I decided I might need a little more lube since I hadn’t added any lube since the first torture test. I took some pics of the gun smoking. I smoked part of a cigarette and took a drink of my usual drink. I reinserted the mag that had the problem round in it and emptied it. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1214453993/med_gallery_384_42_416331.jpg[/img] Other than the one round that failed to eject, there was not a single problem. After I had finished shooting all the ammo I looked on the hood of my truck for the round that had the setback. I was surprised to see the red sealant of the Adcom ammo. I had accidentally brought a mag with the Adcom ammo and left one with the Federal ammo in it at home. It would gone more quickly without the problem with Adcom round and it would have been boring report other than the fact that I fired five hundred-nine rounds out of a great gun. I saved my Pmags until the end. None had any melting. The amount of time from arrival to leaving totaled thirty nine minutes. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1214453993/med_gallery_384_42_143624.jpg[/img] [size=3][b]CDD D-M4[/b][/size] Third 500 Rounds This third test of five hundred rounds began essentially the same as the first two. The D-M4 had still not been cleaned. There was a mix of Federal American Eagle 55 grain .223 FMJ and Prvi Partisan Partisan 5.56 M193. My dad accompanied me to the same site that was used for the other tests. Again, there was a good bit of variation in the magazines used to assure that almost anyone who reads this will own a similar magazine. The magazines were laid out on the hood of the truck within reach to insure quick access. The first magazine was emptied in just a few seconds. I began with one shot, then double taps and finished with a septuple tap. The next two mags were emptied just as quickly if not more so. I kept the pace up until the three hundred round mark. I accidentally touched the area just in front of the charging handle and felt that it was quite hot. I took a short break to let the weapon cool somewhat because I feared a cook-off or gas tube failure might occur. After a sip of water and a drag on a cigarette, it was back to work. I finished off the last two hundred rounds very quickly and the carbine was extremely hot. So hot that I could only touch the pistol grip and the sling. That gave me even more confidence in the Gear Sector GS 2PS sling as I was expecting part of it to be melted or gone. There were no malfunctions of any kind. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1210262474/gallery_384_42_107012.jpg[/img] [size=3][b]CDD-15 D-M4[/b][/size] Conclusion After receiving a beautiful carbine that comes set up from the factory as one should with everything staked correctly, checked its practical accuracy and having run 2,000 plus rounds through it without cleaning I am confident that it can take any abuse a sensible civilian would subject it to. It will return to Charles Daly Defense looking almost brand new and functioning just as well. Everything is still in place, the gas key screws are still tight and the castle nut hasn’t moved. The old “trust the ABC’s” rule goes, there needs to be a CD added in for Charles Daly. TS [size=3][b]Appendix 1[/b][/size] A lot of shooters like to know how a rifle or carbine shoots at 100 yards. I was lucky enough that my brother came to visit on the July the 4th weekend. He brought his carbine with its ACOG. We put his ACOG on the D-M4 and his trigger finger on its trigger for just such a test. This was after the torture testing was done and this was the result. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1214453993/med_gallery_384_42_45678.jpg[/img] 1.75 MOA at 100 yards. Here's a pic of the carbine with that set up. [img]http://www.ar15armory.com/forums/uploads/1214453993/med_gallery_384_42_474918.jpg[/img] TS [size=3][b]Appendix 2[/b][/size] As part of my testing of the Charles Daly D-M4 I thought it would be nice to know the tolerances of the mag well. Many problems are caused by either bad magazines or out of spec lowers, especially tight mag wells. Good thing I'm a mag freak or it would have been an expensive experiment. I tested at least one of each magazine make. My test was very simple but I believe indicative of the tolerances of the mag well and the variation of magazine bodies. It was composed of a very simple action. I would insert an empty magazine in the D-M4's mag well, hold the carbine at shoulder height, and press the magazine release button. I used empty mags for two reasons. The first was to follow standard operating procedure of changing mags provided that problems don't arise. The second was to remove the effects of gravity as much as possible. My results are listed below. Only one brand had complications, Sanchez, and I tested three different Sanchez mags in the same condition and the problem occured with each of them. They had to be pulled semi-agressively from the mag well. All others dropped free immediately when the magazine release button was pressed. C Products - Curved 20 - yes Stainless 30 - yes Aluminum 30 - yes NHMTG Straight 20 - yes 30 - yes Center Industries 30 - yes Cooper 30 - yes Original US Thermold 30 - yes Bravo Company 30- yes D&H (after 04) 30- yes Okay 30 - yes HK Maritime (416) 30 - yes [color=#FF0000]*[/color] Sanchez 30 - no [color=#FF0000]* [b]Sanchez was a USGI magazine manufacturer but made several runs that had to be recalled and destroyed. Some obviously made it to the civilian market[/b]. [/color] TS Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 12/21/2008 03:19 AM
  5. Addax 11.5 inch Side Charger GPU [b][size=3]Addax 11.5 inch Side Charger GPU[/size][/b] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Sidecharger5.jpg[/img] A few weeks ago I received a prototype side charger GPU (Gas Piston Unit) from Addax Tactical. Once I had removed it from the very well wrapped cocoon it was in I was very impressed. It was a beautiful black. I had to strip it down to see the differences between a side charger and a standard charging handle type AR15. There were quite a few and they are quite ingenious. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Sidecharger6.jpg[/img] Side Charger before chamering a round. It had a Vltor CASV-EL rail system of a similar black. I had not used a weapon with the CASV-EL as I thought it was too bulky. It’s not and there are a great number of ways to attach rails and accessories to it. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics2098.jpg[/img] Vltor CASV EL Now we will look at the unique features of the Side Charger GPU. To begin we will look at working the charging handle. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Sidecharger6.jpg[/img] Closed on an empty chamber. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Sidecharger7.jpg[/img] Charger extended to load a round. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Sidecharger8.jpg[/img] Charger to the rear, ready to load a round. You can leave the charger extended or fold it down for use. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Sidecharger9.jpg[/img] When the magazine empties, the charging handle locks to the rear. To avoid having a throbbing finger the bolt release is cut down. I had no problems with the bolt release even though I began shooting it with a standard bolt release. [b][size=3]Addax 11.5 inch Side Charger GPU[/size][/b] Bolt Carrier Group Parts Now we can look into some of the other differences between the side charger and a standard AR style upper. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Rearofsidecharger1.jpg[/img] Since there is no traditional charging handle on the top rear of the upper that space is no longer needed for that use but needs to be moved to remove the bolt carrier group. That space has been filled by a small piece of metal that rotates to the side for field stripping. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Rearofsidecharger2.jpg[/img] Here it is beginning to rotate. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Rearofsidecharger3.jpg[/img] Here it is rotated to the side to allow the bolt carrier group to be removed. The bolt carrier group is removed just as a standard one with the exception of the missing rear charging handle. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/SidechargerBCG.jpg[/img] The bolt carrier group removed. Note the notch in the bolt carrier near the bolt. This notch is where the charging handle connects with the bolt carrier group for operation. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/SidechargerBCG2.jpg[/img] A closer photo of the notch in the bolt carrier. This bolt carrier is a modified Young Manufacturing Light Weight carrier. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/firstkodakpics157.jpg[/img] Proper GPU Gas Key Staking. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/SidechargerotherBCGparts.jpg[/img] The bolt, firing pin and retaining pin are interchangable with standard AR15 parts. [b][size=3]Addax 11.5 inch Side Charger GPU[/size][/b] The Piston Parts The piston parts on all current generation are Diamond Black ® Ion Bonded for increased strength and ease of maintenance. Carbon cannot build up or become embedded with the ion bonding. Anyone ordering a GPU now or in the future will have this upgrade to the system. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/SidechargerBCoprod2.jpg[/img] The Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) again. The BCG must be included along with the other piston parts because the ion bonded op rod is an integral part of the piston system. It both moves the BCG to the rear and cycles the piston back into the "start" position after firing. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/pistonparts1.jpg[/img] The complete piston parts removed from the gas block. All piston parts are inclosed here, minus the op rod of course. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/pistonparts2.jpg[/img] The cross pin, a small but important part. It holds the piston parts together. Break down of the piston parts begins by pushing the cross pin out either side of the front hole in the piston tube. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/pistonparts4.jpg[/img] The first step in breaking down the piston parts. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/pistonbreakdownstep2.jpg[/img] The second step is to simply separate the adjustment knob from the piston tube. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/pistonbreakdownstep3.jpg[/img] Next, with the adjustment knob out of the way, remove the actual piston from the piston tube. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/pistonparts31.jpg[/img] All the piston parts broken down. Top to bottom: the piston tube, the piston, the adjusting knob and the cross pin. This is the entire process of breaking down the piston parts. You can use your favorite cleaner to remove the carbon from the outer surface of parts. Wipe any remaining cleaning agent off the piston parts, then reverse the process to reassemble the piston parts. [b][size=3]Positives of side charger[/size][/b] [b]Why a side charger?[/b] If you are looking at a piston system, you know that the original AR15 design has some flaws. Like the positives a piston system has over the direct gas designs, the side charger has positives over the standard rear charging handle design. So why would you want a side charger? Here are a few reasons. If you are a police officer or military who has to carry your carbine in Condition 3 due to department policy or rules of engagement and need to chamber a round it takes time to contort it into position to grab the charging handle. With a side charger no contortion is needed. You can have your carbine at the shoulder ready to fire, pull the side charging handle quickly to the rear and release. You are in Condition 2 or 1 and, if the threat is clearly present, ready to fire. If you use a standard magnified optic, also known as a scope, or a red dot plus magnifier the rear charging handle can be difficult to reach. The big latches and tactical latches can help but you’re still just putting a bandaid on the problem. You can mount a scope or red dot plus magnifier on a side charger and not have to worry about that problem. The handle on the side charger is unobstructed so you can load a round very quickly. I have heard people who run their carbines suppressed complain about gas in the face. The reason for this is in the rear changing handle design. With the side charger upper that area is sealed when the carbine’s takedown pin is engaged. No more gas in the face. Are these the only positives of a side charger? No. This is simply a short list of positives of the side charging GPU. [b][size=3]Range time with the Side Charger[/size][/b] It took a while to get all the parts for the pistol lower that would allow me to use the 11.5 inch side charger, so when I got it all put together I was ready to go to the range. Direct Impingement AR pistols are known to be the least reliable of the standard AR setups, generally due to gas problems or buffers that are too light. I decided to see if I could stop the side charger with a light buffer or bad ammo. I brought a standard carbine buffer, a 9mm buffer and poor ammo. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Chargingaroundshooting.jpg[/img] My first magazine was loaded with Wolf. I pulled the charger and a round went home. Notice the gun pointed straight downrange. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Chargingaroundshooting4.jpg[/img] I pulled the trigger thirty times and it went bang every time. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Chargingaroundshooting2.jpg[/img] My next magazine was loaded with Adcom M855 spec ammo. It is known to be very poor ammo and I have had stoppages when using it in the past. Not this time. I then tried a 9mm buffer with both Wolf and Adcom ammo until I ran out of it. The GPU ran fine and did not have a stoppage with the 9mm buffer. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/Chargingaroundshooting6-1.jpg[/img] Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 01/26/2009 11:02 PM
  6. Review: "The Art of the Tactical Carbine" [center][b]Magpul-Dynamics THE ART OF THE TACTICAL CARBINE[/b][/center] [center][img]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c61/Schutzmann/Sampels/dvd1web.jpg[/img] [/center] Magpul-Dynamics is a branch of Magpul-Industries. They have specialised themselves to firearms and all kinds of tactical training. Beside the standard program they offer classes for VSBB and aerial sniper-support, defensive off-road driving and tactical training under HAZMAT conditions. Travis Haley the president of Magpul-Dynamics and Richard Fitzpatrick, president of Magpul-Industries meet during there tours in the Marine Recon/Force Recon. The director of training, Chris Costa, served several years with the USCG and worked the last few years for the DOHS, as a contractor for several types of tactical training in unconventional environments. The DVD-Set „The art of the Tactical Carbine“ is a collection of intensive fundamental and advanced combat-carbine training, drills and other useful hints for any carbine operator. The training is based on the AR15-weaponsystem, but except a few typical AR15 manipulations you can adopt most of the material for any type of self-loading-rifle. The Set is made up out of 3 DVD´s. The first Disk is all about fundamentals: magazine placement, optics and accessories, battle sight zero, iron sights / electronic optics, shooting stance, weapon grip / recoil control, speed- and tactical reloads, solving malfunctions, shooting on the move, natural and improvised shooting positions, individual and team barricaded drills. On the second DVD of the set you learn about the advanced skills: individual and team stress drills, rapid threat analysis & acquisition, weapon transition, advanced shooting on the move, multiple target engagement, weapon and reaction side barricade drills, advanced individual and team barricade drills and the “check-drill”. DVD # 3 has a lot of features on it. You can go to 23 different drills from the first and second DVD. Each drill is shown in full speed (and Travis and Chris ARE fast) in 50% and 30% slow motion from different camera angles. Later on Chris Costa is talking about weapons accessories, disassembly and maintenance of the AR15-System and weapon storage and travelling with your gun. [center] [img]http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c61/Schutzmann/Sampels/dvd2web.jpg[/img] [/center] The difference between this set and most other training stuff I have seen is, that this training film is not a monolog by an individual. The viewer is like a “ghost shooter” imbedded in the Magpul-Basic-carbine-Course on the first and the Magpul-Advanced-Carbine-Course on the second disc. The First course is held by Travis and Chris together. Both are animating the class in a very friendly but very serious way. What I like is that they don’t use the well known “my way or the highway” method but rather than that they acquire the techniques with the participants. By the way, this is also the way I like to go. The Instructors live what they teach and sometimes they show it of with breathtaking speed and accuracy. Breathtaking is also the speed of Chris Costa’s comments. He has most of the text in this production and he is talking very clearly and he is good to understand. But if you wait for a breather, you’re lost. But this will do not any harm to the quality. Just on the 3rd Disc when he is talking about weapon accessories, maintenance and travel it is still very clear but it gets a little hard too. But may be, its just me. The shown manipulations and manoeuvres are rational. Every shooter, depending on his/her skills, can adopt the techniques very easy. The philosophy of Travis Haley and Chris Costa is definitely speed and communication in the team. Besides the actual training it is a lot of fun to watch the first two DVD several times again. My wife was very interested in what she saw and would have loved to join the training at the class. Of course I was in the same boat. The very well trained combat-carbine-slinger will not see too much new stuff. But you will may see quiet a few options and helpful suggestions for advanced tactical carbine training. Over ten years ago I bought a couple of training-movies from “The Burner”. It helped me a lot back then but it also cost me about an arm and a leg. Compared to that, the Magpul-DVD-Set is quiet affordable. The camera work is also worth mentioning. Static takes in front of an old batik-curtain are history. The camera is “running” with the shooters or it is mounted to the carbines, in both directions! I really like the way they made it and it reminds me on modern action-movies. When the action starts and the view is jumping back and forth between 3-4 different camera positions, the audience needs to pay attention. Is this positive or negative for the individual viewer? I can’t tell. I guess this is up to every single observer. Well, at least I like it. Overall the set impressed me and I like to watch it more often then other training-movies I have. It’s bringing up a fresh breeze in some of the dusty collections and it covers a quiet large area of the needs a carbine operator has. The whole system is build up in a way, that an individual or a team can train separated segments or combinations. I hope you enjoyed my review on “The Art of the Tactical Carbine” Cheers, Gunner Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 12/21/2008 03:26 AM
  7. Gear Sector GS 2P [center][b]Gear Sector GS 2P[/b][/center] I would love to say that Gear Sector asked me to do this review for them but it wouldn’t be true. After Charles Daly picked me to review the D-M4 I knew I would need a sling for it. I was an early customer of Gear Sector from the days after I bought my POF. I bought one of the true first generation of their ASP single point sling and I was a T&E guy on their pre-production SPRE single point attachment. I could go on but I should get back to the review. I knew they made great gear and that they had a new two point sling out, the GS 2P. I sent them an email telling them what I’ve told you, that I needed a sling to use for the D-M4 review. Very shortly afterward they told me that they would send me a sample GS 2P. I guess you’re wondering the same thing I would be at this point. What’s the difference between it and other slings? For starters they use a one inch wide tubular webbing that doesn’t dig in like some inch and a quarter and inch and a half slings. Unless you are carrying an M249 or M240G this sling won’t dig in. [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2PwCap.jpg[/img][/center] Also, the lack of wide webbing keeps it from hanging in your gear, getting entangled with your tac-latch and the like. I don’t know how many times my three point sling kept me from using the bolt catch. Small things like that can get you killed if you use the slung weapon to save your life and the lives of others. The GS 2P has two QD points, one on each end. If things do go wrong you can use either quick detach to relieve yourself from the sling and weapon and the attachment points will still be on the weapon. [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pfront.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Prear.jpg[/img][/center] [center]It has a Base Adjuster which is the device that allows you to adjust the sling to fit your body.[/center] [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2PBA.jpg[/img] The Base Adjuster is in the lower left corner of the photo above. [/center] [center]It also has the Ladder-Loc which locks the Ripcord in place. [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2PLL.jpg[/img][/center][size=1]In this photo the Ladder Loc is even with the rear of the carry handle. The Ripcord is forward and below the Ladder Loc[/size] The Ladder-Loc is a buckle just above the Ripcord that sets and holds the amount of slack in the sling and, most importantly, allows you to pull the weapon up into the ready position by use of the Ripcord. [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2PRCloose.jpg[/img] [size=1]The Ripcord is shown in the loosest position in comfortable carry position. Notice my thumb is ready to adjust it.[/size][/center] To adjust the amount you pull the Ripcord in a downward or forward direction. With the sling fully taut it mimics the way a Marine is trained to use his sling for greater accuracy as it pulls the weapon into your shoulder. [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Ptaut.jpg[/img] [size=1]It is pictured here in the taut position as mentioned above on the weak side.[/size][/center] When you no longer need the weapon in that position you pull on the Ladder-Loc to release it for a carry position, as in the picture below. [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2PloosenLL.jpg[/img] [img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Pfullyloose.jpg[/img] [size=1]Here it is back in the fully loose position.[/size][/center] My favorite feature is the ability to attach the GS 2P to the weapon, or more accurately weapons. The stock sling comes with two adapters to mate with a standard sling swivel on each end. Other adapters include an HK hook type attachment point, a QD push button adapter for rail or Magpul stock QD attachments, a stock adapter and a solid stock adapter. I have mine set up with a stock adapter set up to be a webbing version of a “sling thing” and a standard sling swivel adapter attached to a side sling swivel. [center][img]http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo310/TigerStripe/GS2Prearslingthing.jpg[/img] [size=1]Rear sling thing.[/size][/center] You can buy one sling and several adapters and use the same sling on all your weapons. You can also set up your weapon to accept a GS 2P and Gear Sector’s single point ASP. A review of a weapon set up to use either sling is coming up. TS Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 12/21/2008 03:12 AM
  8. AR Acronym Thread AAR- After Action Review/ After Action Report - (what'd we do right what'd we do wrong) AFAIK- As Far As I Know AO- Area of Operations AR- Armalite Rifle AR10- the orginal .308 Armalite Rifle AR15- the .223/5.56 AR we've learned to love (or hate) main designer Eugene Stoner AR18 / AR180- Eugene Stoner's attempt at a piston rifle. ACOG- Advanced Combat Optical Gunsight BAC- Bindon Aiming Concept, firing with both eyes open, particularly related with an ACOG. BB- Bull Barrel BBL- Barrel BCG- Bolt Carrier Group the bolt, bolt carrier and firing pin of the AR. Used for other rifles as well. Buffer- The weight in the stock of the AR10/AR15 system that resists the rearward movement of the BCG. There are several types, mainly rifle and carbine. BOHICA: Bend Over, Here It Comes Again. BRD- Black Rifle Disease BUIS- Backup Iron Sights- used mainly on rifles with a non-magnifying optic (EOTech, Aimpoint) Can be front and/or rear sights CAR/CAR15- Compact or Commando AR15 the first short barrel version of the AR15, used mainly by Special Operations Forces CH- Charging Handle CL- Chrome Lined CMV- Chromemoly Vanadium- the steel used for most AR barrels; Chromemoly doesn't necessarily mean chromelined. COB- Combat Operations Base COM- Center Of Mass CQB- Close Quarters Battle - generally from a couple of feet to fifty yards. CS- Customer Service DI- Direct (gas) Impingement- the operating system used on AR's. The gasses from the fired round are directed back into the bolt carrier to operate the system, eject spent round and load another. DIAS- Drop In Auto Sear EBR- Evil Black Rifle ERD- Evil Rifle Disease FA- Forward Assist or Full Auto FBR- Full Battle Rifle FBR- Full Battle Rattle - carrying all your gear, including the kitchen sink. FCG- Fire Control Group FF- Free Float FH- Flash Hider FMJ- Full Metal Jacket FMJBT- Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail FNG- Freaking New Guy - F^cking New Guy FOB- Forward Operations Base FS- Flash Suppressor FSB- Front Sight Base FSP- Front Sight Post, the actual sight itself FUBAR- F'd Up Beyond All Recognition GTG- Good To Go. In working order, exactly as needed, ready HBAR- Heavy Barrel (not a bull barrel) HG- Handguard IANAL- I Am Not A Lawyer IIRC- If I Recall Correctly IMHO- In My Humble Opinion or In My Honest Opinion. I never use this acronym. My opinion is never humble, but it's always honest. IMO- In My Opinion IFAS- Improved First Aid System JAFU- Just Another Fvck Up JMO- Just My Opinion KBR- Kan't Be Reliable (Kellogg Brown & Root) LL- Lightening Link LMT- Lewis Machine and Tool- Top Line AR manufacturer LOS- Line of Sight LPK- Lower Parts Kit LRRP-Long Range Reconaissance Patrol MOA- Minute Of Angle- the equivalent to 1 inch groups at 100 yards. MOB- Minute of Bad guy- Accurate enough to hit a person. MOWTHDTG-Minute Of Where The Hell Did That Go ND- Negligent Discharge- not following rules &/or not paying attention and firing a round. OAL- OverAll Length OEM- Original Equipment Manufacturer OTM- Open Tip Match (ammunition). Border Patrol/Immigration- Other Than Mexican POA- Point of Aim POF- Patriot Ordnance Factory (I checked their site and it is still that)- make a gas piston AR15 POI- Point of Impact. PRS- Precision Rifle Stock RAS- Rail Adapter System RDIAS- Registered Drop In Auto Sear REMF-Rear Echelon Mother F'er(sittin in the rear with the gear) SASS- Semi Automatic Sniper System SBR- Short Barrel Rifle- rifle, carbine with a barrel less than 16 inch total. A 14.5" barrel with a Phantom or Vortex FS permanently attached is not considered an SBR. SDMR- Squad Designated Marksman Rifle. SHTF- shat Hits the Fan- from relatively minor or local events on up. SPR- Special Purpose Rifle SSDD-Same shat Different Day SWAG- Scientific Wild-Ass Guess TEOTWEAWKI- The End Of The World As We Know It. TOC- Tactical Operations Center VFG- Vertical Fore Grip / Vertical Forward Grip WECSOG- Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing YMMV- Your Mileage May Vary- your item, event or situation may differ. ___________________________________________________________________________ Thanks for everyone's input. TS Author TigerStripe Category Submitted 11/27/2008 02:28 AM
  9. If it works in your gun, use it. Brass cased ammo is generally better quality but if you don't mind cleaning your gun... Look at an Addax piston gun and you can run anything and not have to clean as much. TS
  10. The 75gr is nice... I think they tried a little too hard to keep up with demand and overran it. TS
  11. I don't know if Corbon DPX is a gimmick or not. I do know that 55gr TAP will explode near the surface, at least it will on a hog. The Barnes TSX bullet is a good design but I don't know what effect it will have out of an AR. FWIW, lots of LE agencies use 55gr soft point. I believe JC and Pepper both carry Remmy 55gr SP for duty, IIRC. TS
  12. Good to be back... I don't know how active I'll be able to be (right now). TS Sorry for the hijack.
  13. Hi! You could try setting the sight to the second setting, usually green. A bump should then turn if off. Also turn the brightness down to the lowest setting. A stubby VFG might loosen the fit in the case... TS
  14. If you need a sling Gear Sector is the way to go. TS
  15. The "problem" lies in the height of the gas block. Some gas blocks are "gas block" height and some are rail height. You have to get the correct sight for your gas block. A picture would help us immensely in helping you. TS
  16. My triggers done by Bill are noticeably and distinctly single stage triggers that break like glass. They have no travel or creep, simply squeeze and they break. If they didn't I wouldn't recommend them. I would contact Bill about your problem. TS
  17. My current favorite is the Tactical Innovations forged lower. JTAC has them on sale. You have to add one to your cart to get the real price here. I also like DPMS and Charles Daly. I don't like Spikes due to problems they have with Pmags. TS
  18. The T1 is nice. If you are buying new, I would think about the H1 for the reasons mentioned above. TS
  19. I would go with a Young's chrome or Micro-Slick the Bushmaster you have. I haven't gotten to play with the Micro-Slick yet though. Chrome is naturally slick and needs less lube, phosphated (standard) bolt carriers are porous and soak up lube which requires you to constantly lube the weapon. The lube mixed with the phosphate collect carbon. TS
  20. You can mix up the Dark Earth and OD panels here to give a more camoflaged look. I would use the shorter panels. TS
  21. to the Armory! Is the Aeroprecision-Bushmaster mix an A2 or a flat top? TS
  22. to the Armory! A lot of the answers you're looking for are personal preference questions. The ARMS #40L is my favorite rear BUIS. Pmags are very tough and durable. Color is definitely a personal choice, but I like FDE, Coyote Brown (almost extinct) and OD green. There are many good stocks out there. to you as well. I wouldn't spend money at Cheaper than Dirt because they were rapists during the Obama panic. As to color, go with what pleases you. TS
  23. A .223 75gr load has more recoil than a 55gr 5.56 load. They have to add powder, or pressure, to make up for those extra 20 grains of difference in bullet weight. TS
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