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Colt45Guy

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About Colt45Guy

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    The Hoff

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    South Carolina
  1. My Springfield came NIB with a FLGR. My Baer came with one that was installed by the previous owner......both were ditched immediately. Anything 'new' added to a pistol needs to be weighed against the negatives too. The FLGR is supposed to eliminate spring bind--which actually isn't possible inside the recoil spring tunnel. It's supposed to help manage muzzle flip--but a good grip and a beavertail do the same job better. The cons are that it's a PITA to strip/assemble, and worse, they can tie up the gun if the FLGR loosens up and goes flying downrange. (had that happen twice before my Brownells shipment arrived)
  2. I'll let Racer post the details about how to install a FLGR **I think we got it Stu--pop a few rounds and let me know how she does
  3. Give me a holler tomorrow night--I'll walk you through the extractor tweak your pistol needs. It'll take us about 15 minutes.
  4. yeah--no kidding. I like having a relatively poo flinging free forum to moderate.
  5. Maybe you should just send your 1911s to me for maintenance....I work for beer
  6. Reassembly of the slide: Again--only the important stuff will be photographed. Push extractor into extractor channel. Push firing pin spring onto firing pin. (**note: when it's on correctly, the spring won't fall off. One end of the spring may be tighter than the other.) Drop firing pin/spring into firing pin channel. This is where it gets harder--it helps to have 3 hands. Use your punch to push in the firing pin. Slide your firing pin stop (rounded part at the bottom and facing back) into the cut. You may have to adjust the position of your extractor to get it to start. Once the firing pin stop is in the cuts, slide it up to the shaft of the punch. Carefully relieve the spring tension--if you have the firing pin stop in far enough, the firing pin won't be able to come out. Push the firing pin stop in the rest of the way. When it's all the way in, the firing pin will snap into the circular hole. Insert the barrel into the slide from the muzzle. Ensure that the link is laying forward. Place the slide on it's sights and lay the recoil spring guide in. With the slide upside down, put the slide and frame together. Align the half moon cut and the slide stop hole. Insert the slide stop making sure it goes through the barrel link hole--CAREFULLY--to avoid the dreaded Idiot Scratch, place the slide stop as shown without allowing it to contact anything else. Push in and up at the same time. You will overcome the plunger spring tension and the slide stop will snap into place. Return slide to the forward position. Install your barrel bushing, recoil spring and recoil spring plug. Perform safety checks--ensure the safety lever works. Engage safety lever and try to pull the trigger. Nothing should happen. Ensure that the grip safety works. (Hold the gun without pushing in the grip safety) With the safety lever disengaged, pull the trigger. The hammer should not fall. Ensure that the disconnector works. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Cycle the slide. The hammer should not fall. Release the trigger. You should hear a 'click'. Pull trigger again and the hammer should fall. Lock the slide back and release it using the slide stop. (yes--this isn't good for the hammer hooks, sear or your trigger job, but it lets you know if the sear and sear spring are engaging properly) Drop a pencil down the barrel. Cock the hammer and point in a safe direction: pull the trigger....the pencil should fly a few feet--you now know that the firing pin works. Insert an empty mag. Cycle the slide. It should lock and eject normally. There's no real need to test the extractor unless you tweaked it while you had it out--but this is best done live fire....so, you're done!
  7. Reassembly of the 1911 is almost as straightforward as disassembly--there's a few things to keep in mind. I'm not going to go through a pictorial of the entire reassembly--I'll just hit the important stuff but I'll type out the directions step by step. Frame: Insert trigger. It only goes in one way--don't try to force it! The angle at the back of the bow should match the angle at the back of the frame. Insert magazine catch. Hold the mag catch in the 'actuated position' and turn the screw a half turn to the right. When it aligns and releases the spring, you'll feel the pressure against your finger. The screw slot should be close to straight up/down when it's locked into position. Take your disconnector and sear. Put them together like this: It will take some finesse, but place the sear and disconnector into the pistol with the flat part of the disconnector resting on the trigger bow and the top up through the hole in the frame. Insert the small pin from the left side. If you put it in backwards, the pins will fall out and you'll never find 'em at the range. A toothpick or dental pick will help you align the holes--this pin holds both the sear and disconnector. Insert the hammer and pin it the same way--for the same reason. Place your sear spring so it fits like so--make sure your hammer strut is out of the way: Be sure to put the bottom of the spring into the little slot in the frame. The 'finger' on the left is your sear spring. The middle 'finger' is the disconnector spring, and the 'finger' on the right will be sticking up--this one is for the grip safety. I partially install my Mainspring Housing now to hold the sear spring in place. Just slide it up into the frame slightly past the bottom of the spring. This will keep it from flopping around as you manipulate the frame. Now, insert the grip safety. You'll need to align and insert the safety lever--ensure that the hammer strut is in the channel: You will need to use a credit card or that small screwdriver to compress the plunger while you push the safety in. The hammer must be in the cocked position for the safety lever to fit Lower the hammer and slide your Mainspring Housing up. Ensure that the hammer strut is in the cup. You will need to compress the grip safety while doing this. I hold the mainspring housing against a table while holding the frame in a firing grip. Push down on the table and insert your mainspring housing pin. Once it's started, just push it home with your punch. Install your grips. Frame is completely reassembled.
  8. Moving on to the Detail Strip of the Frame--this is where things can get hairy if you don't know what you're doing.....fortunately, it's not as difficult as you may think, and it gets easier every time. Remove the grips. I have Torx screws on this Springfield--the correct screws can be unscrewed with the rim of a .45ACP cartridge. If you can't remove the grips without a picture, this tutorial probably isn't for you. GENTLY lower the hammer if it isn't already forward. Allowing the hammer to fall without the slide installed is a sure way to crack the hammer. Using a small punch, press in firmly on the Main Spring Housing pin. Stick the punch in the little divot and push. Sometimes, you have to push hard. A little tap on the punch with the back of a screwdriver or hammer is perfectly acceptable--you should be using a brass punch to avoid damaging the finish. With the pin removed, simply slide your Mainspring Housing out. (I got ahead of myself with this pic--but you should get the idea) Hold the pistol in your right hand. Cock the hammer and push the safety lever up (safety engaged) With a combination of pulling and wiggling, remove the safety lever. **CAUTION: If your pistol doesn't have a dogleg in the plunger spring, the little knob shown in this pic can fly across the room--and it's a pain to find on the carpet! This is a good opportunity to use a clear plastic bag--remove the safety inside the bag, and you won't lose the part. Once the safety lever is out, the grip safety will just fall out. Your sear spring (some guns have a 3 blade, some a 4--removal is the same) has probably already fallen out on it's own--if not, take it out now Turn your frame over on it's left side. See these 2 pins? Remove these pins, and the hammer, sear and disconnector will fall out the bottom of the frame. Time for the magazine catch. Push in the mag catch like you're ejecting a mag. While you're pushing in, use a small screwdriver and turn the screw a half turn to the left. It sometimes takes a few attempts to line up the screw key with it's keyway, but you'll push the magazine catch out when it happens. DON'T TRY TO FORCE THE SCREW! It's soft metal, and you'll chew it up. The screw will turn fairly easily when it's aligned properly. With the magazine catch removed, push the trigger back into the frame. It should pretty much fall out of the frame if you point it straight up. You have just detail stripped the frame! Your pile 'o parts should look like this: **I didn't remove the grip screw bushings or the ejector. Those are parts you don't want to mess with unless they're bad--the bushings are staked, and the ejector is pinned with a 1/16" roll pin and red loctite.
  9. Detail strip of the 1911 slide--Series 70 only. There's more to it with a Series 80 After you've Field Stripped your pistol, hold the slide so that you can see the back. You'll see the firing pin. Use a small punch and push the firing pin in about a 1/4". While you are pushing in on the firing pin, pull down a bit to slide the firing pin stop down. Depending on how tight your firing pin stop is or how dirty the gun is, this may take a little effort. BE CAREFUL! The firing pin is under spring tension, and if you pull the firing pin stop completely out, the pin will fling into your eye or get lost in the scary places under the work bench. If you've managed to slide the firing pin stop just enough to unlock it, (you'll know this because you can no longer see the pin in the pack) just slide the firing pin stop all the way down while blocking the firing pin's escape route with your other hand. The firing pin stop also locks your extractor in place. Poke your finger into the ejection port and push aft on the extractor hook. Pull the extractor out from the back. Your slide detail strip is complete! Your pile 'o parts should look like this: **there are 2 extra parts if you have a Series 80--not shown here. I'll have to reinstall those parts on one of my pistols to show what they look like.
  10. After talking to the Boss the other day, I decided to do a pictorial 1911 detail strip--we're talking complete pistol to bare frame and back. First step: Make sure that the pistol is UNLOADED! Most of the negligent discharges I've heard of happened with 'unloaded weapons' while cleaning. Close the slide (don't let it slam shut--you don't want to damage that trigger job) If you have a tight barrel bushing, use a bushing wrench. Push the recoil spring plug in, and rotate the bushing about 90 degrees to the left. CAREFULLY remove the bushing wrench--the recoil spring and plug are under quite a bit of tension and will try to fly across the the room or into another dimension if you allow them. Remove the plug and spring. Rotate the bushing about 160 degrees to the right and remove. A tight bushing may need some persuasion--use the barrel to tap it out after you remove the slide stop (see next step) To remove the slide stop, move the slide to the rear until the little half moon cut lines up with the slide stop. CAUTION: To avoid an Idiot Scratch, you must be careful not to use excessive wiggle or pressure to remove/install the slide stop. From the right side of the pistol (as you hold it) push straight in on the slide stop. You will get some resistance from the plunger, but once you're past it, it will swing freely. Just pull it out and set it aside. Hold the pistol upside down and pull the slide forward. Remove the recoil spring guide. Ensure that the barrel link is fully forward, and slide the barrel out the front of the slide. ***This completes a Field Strip. This is all that is necessary for normal cleaning--taking the pistol apart further will often void your warranty, and will cause undue wear/tear on the pin holes and such. Your pile 'o parts should look like this:
  11. I just finished the pics--be sure to check out the 1911 teardown--complete pistol to bare frame and back!
  12. ummm---revolvers don't have a safety either.
  13. no legal reason not to have it on a mini.....the legal problems come with a piece of string to help bump firing. (there's plenty of reasons not to have one of those silly devices on ANY firearm--like the fact that they don't work well, it's unsafe because it's hard to aim, and they waste ammo when they do work)
  14. correction: ATF reconsidered their ruling in 2007. A shoelace is no longer an unregistered machine gun, unless it's being used on a rifle with a reciprocating bolt to assist in bump firing. Mini 14/30 owners are allowed to have shoelaces again edited to correct date **I have a copy of the ATF letter, but I can't seem to post it--PDF or Word format
  15. yep--those things have been around for years. I don't know how they're still legal when the BATFE considers a piece of string 'Criminal Intent' (if you have a mini 14/30, DON'T have a shoelace in your posession!) but you can still find these things at the funshows or buy them online. http://www.sksman.com/acces/Hellstorm.php
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