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  1. HKgnnr

    online news

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  2. Nice build, now go out and shoot that thang!
  3. I have a YHM barrel - 16" 1x7 and it does have an M4 extension - as I'm pretty sure all of the barrels they produce are. Also, like glock posted, check this link as well, as it shows pictures of the receiver extension on the underside - M4 vs. Rifle POST #4 down in the thread
  4. HKgnnr

    Zero in a buis

    I've found the 50 yard zero to be very effective - now this is with a GG&G MAD BUIS (but will work with any flipup/deployable) and pretty much works with either a standard front sight housing/or BUIS front sight. Theoretically, from anywhere between 0 and 250 yards, you're only looking at approximately a 3" difference either above or below your point of aim. Excuse the visualization, but its the easiest way to explain it.... When engaging targets at under 50 yards....aim as you would "armpit to armpit" (visualize a line drawn across the body) on a human target - it'll drop the rounds below your line of sight hitting center of mass. So you'd be aiming slightly high on your targets - about 2". You can hold dead on from beyond 50 to 200 yards with about 1.5" variation, either up or down. Beyond 200 to just under 350 - again "armpit to armpit" Most ranges I have access to - the max I can shoot is about 200 yards - so I haven't been able to test beyond that. I've noticed that at 100, its a bit more like 2" high, but with so many variables like wind and such - it's hard to say exactly. There is absolutely nothing wrong with any of the other suggestions or methods. The important thing to remember is that, once you decide on a method, stick with it and learn your rifles capability, in combination with the ammo your shooting. Change the ammo, even if its the same 55gr and you will see a slight variation. The dope chart that I created was using Hornady 55gr FMJ reloads. When I shoot Fed/Fiocchi/etc, the range chart still works, but I can expect to see slight variations due to velocity/bullet type. You will get to the point where you can use a bit of "Kentucky windage" to drop your rounds in on targets beyond the 350 yard mark. For most purposes I've found the 50 yard zero fast and clean in dealing with critters found at most common engagement distances - from coyotes to zombies. ETA - Here is a great site where you can punch in different variables to work up your own charts. You may not know the BC *Ballistic coeffient* of the round you're firing, but often if you do a search on the brand + BC in Google - you may locate it. If not, there is a calculator next to the left on the page. It may not be 100% correct, but it will give you a "range workable" idea for your dope chart. HANDLOADS.COM
  5. HKgnnr

    Which Optic For My AR-15

    Let me explain it this way to clarify - To me, the Aimpoint "appears" to be a "blob" of a dot...whereas even though the Eotech's dot may not be sharper in design it is more "rounded" to my eye.
  6. HKgnnr

    velocity variances for reloads

    120 fps is kind of steep, going by my own experience even an average .2 grain variance could give you that however. On occasion, I've had one round of .223 chrony in at 2890, and the next at 2970. But, they should normally all settle in at least 25fps-75fps of one another What caliber are you loading? Because I'm figuring .1 grain could give you that difference depending upon power/caliber. What model chrony are you using, and do you think it could be any other factor such as sun/shade throwing the velocity off? Also, are you weighing your charges by beam or electronic scale? Just checked my last batch...from low to high (not in the order in which the rounds were fired) 2983 2987 2988 2991 2995 3005 3031 3033 3051 3065 Avg = 3013fps Diff of highest to lowest = 82fps Diff of Avg to lowest = 30fps Diff of Avg to highest = 52fps So in that string there was as much as an 82 fps difference - yet 2983 was round 1 out of the barrel, and the 3065 was round 7
  7. HKgnnr

    Zero in a buis

    clerk - check the "sight height" - should be either 2.5"/2.6" for an AR with irons - I think you have 1.5" calculated instead.... Thanks for helping though, my eyes are going wonky
  8. HKgnnr

    Zero in a buis

    I do POA/POI at 50 yards w/ 55gr ~3000fps at the muzzle Gives..."approximately" -1" @ 25 0 @ 50 +1.4" @ 100 +1.5" @150 0 @ 200 -3" @ 250 -8" @ 300 -15.5" @ 350 FWIW, for the 36yrd bzo WNY cites... -.75 @ 25 0 @ 36 +3" @ 100 +4" @ 150 +3.5" @ 200 +1" @ 250 -3" @ 300 -10 @ 350 Again, these are approximate (within .25") considering the muzzle velocity of 3000fps Should be close enough for gov't work
  9. HKgnnr


    I've been using Ramshot X-Terminator for Hornady 55gr FMJs - 16" 1x7 (tested with CMMG, Sabre, and Yankee Hill barrels - give it about 25fps either way) 2.23 OAL LC Brass CCI #41 24.8gr - 2930fps 24.9gr - 3000fps I have noticed the lighter loads give better accuracy by about .25 inch @ 100
  10. HKgnnr

    put primers in backwards

    You could spray the cup of each primer with WD40 to "kill them" - let it soak up for awhile, and then SLOWLY deprime as normal. Its kind of a pain, because you then have to degrease all the casings...so depending on how much your time is worth, you may just be better served at tossing them and consider it a learning experience.
  11. HKgnnr

    How do I remove primer crimp?

    I've used the Sinclair primer pocket uniformer on thousands of LC brass...just chuck it up in a power drill Its tedious, and there will be that piece of brass every so often that refuses to take a primer. However, it evens up & cleans out the primer pocket very well - smooths out the primer pocket wall, and takes that "edge" off of most primer pocket crimps. Sinclair tools
  12. Yes unfortunately, we got skunked here in NY, mirror of the Fed ban of '94....the only way you can have all the evil features is by having a preban lower/rifle - one manufactured prior to Sept. of 94. Don't worry about not having a flash suppressor - if you take a look around, most of the "newer" rifles are configured with very effective brake/comps. Several models to choose from with such companies as - PWS, TROY, YHM, Miculek, Smith Enterprises, etc. All of which do an excellent job at smoothing out the already light recoil of an AR. Just be sure to purchase a quality one - cause once its on the end of that barrel, it'll be a pain in the ass to remove it again. To do the work - and just as an example, ADCO charges about $65 for the threading...$30 for the attachment work - on top of the cost of the brake. Here is ADCO's website (I have no affiliation with them, just know of their quality work) ADCO FIREARMS Wouldn't hurt to send him an email with a cost inquiry... Oh - and by the way, I saw you mentioned 10 round mags....you can own 20s and 30s here in NY - they just have to be preban (pre Sept 94). Considering that "most" prebans weren't marked with dates and such, you'll have to do your homework and often take someones word that they are in fact prebans. I know, stupid grey area of the law. Lets just say, don't end up showing off P-Mags or anything to the local po-po
  13. Power Custom makes shims to take out the slop - they are placed against the interior receiver walls where the takedown pins go. See here... Link to Power Custom shims.... Haven't used them myself, but if your cautious of using an accuwedge, I'm sure these shims could be an alternative.
  14. Well - you've got two options....for a compensator. Unfortunately, you can't mount a flash suppressor on that rifle because it is considered "postban" here in NY. However, as for a compensator - there a quite of few effective ones out now - so with that said 1) Go with a set screw model, which I'd actually suggest against or 2) Have the barrel threaded and attach a comp permanently - either by blind pin/weld or silver solder. Where about in NY are you? I'm stuck behind the lines here as well. There may be a gunsmith nearby, or you could always send the upper off to reputable AR dealer/smith such as ADCO to have the work done.