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  1. I ran across this reference a while ago that supports fdxpilot's comments - http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html Scroll down to section entitled "Twist Rates". The table specifies a maximum bullet weight for a given twist rate. I interpret this to mean the maximum bullet weight and anything less. A faster twist rate is required to stabilize heaver bullets; lighter ones only need slower twist rates. "Fast twist (1:8) barrels have more drag and friction, which can slow the bullet down. Ideally you want to use the slowest twist rate possible that will stabilize the bullet you choose to shoot." http://www.6mmbr.com/barrelFAQ.html
  2. Addax, Thanks for the valuable feedback. I put a lot of weight on the experience of someone who has "been there". I took a look at the link and was impressed. Now I can move on to make the decisions on the other parts for my upper build. Thanks again.
  3. Would have been interesting to see a performance test with original rifle. Then do another test after you made all the changes. Is you hand guard free floating. Free floating barrels are more accurate. Have you thought of stripping your new configuration down to only the essentials and see how it does? I just purchase a YHM barrel off the internet (because a supplier had only 2 of them in stock and I needed one yesterday) and was also surprised to see so very little performance tests anywhere on the internet.
  4. Reviews are good. Reviews with shooting results are better. Did you do performance test, and have I just missed the post?
  5. Is your hand guard free floating? I noticed on a post further on, that the shooter wasn't getting the groups he wanted, but then I looked all the other accessories, and wondered if that has something to do with his results.
  6. I placed an order for a complete upper, but because of the "crunch" on guns and ammo after November election, the supplier couldn't deliver. So I decided to build piece wise. The tough part is deciding from so many different choices. I am trying to decide between a free floating type hand guard that has rails, example seen at- akpartskits.com website, model AR-A-18 OR, one that is a tube type - JPE modular handguard which can be seen at http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.4_hg.php . Does anyone know who makes the one shown at akpartskits.com? Or is it a proprietary part? The claim is easy installation for both. Anyone have build experience with either of these types? The four rail gives a rifle a more ominous look, but in all honesty, the number of places to accessorize looks like overkill. To make it more easy on the hand, one adds hand covers. One the other hand, the JPE is already stripped and smooth, so to speak, and allows for addition of a variety of rails at a number of places. I know there are tubes that can be purchased for less than a half or third of what these cost.
  7. I've been in the market myself. I just ran across this from Lilja - "As of April 2009 we are now offering a chrome-moly version of our drop-in AR and M4 barrels. " They are lower cost than the stainless. I was looking for a rifle length barrel with M4 feed ramps to match my upper; most M4 barrels seem to be 16 in. http://www.riflebarrels.com/products/patrolman_ar.htm I don't know about delivery time.
  8. I cannot suggest the best, but, as I recall at one time a number of months ago, there were only about 4 or so actual fabricators, the rest were just retail suppliers - Gas Piston kits - http://www.blackweaponsarmory.com/store/in...p;productId=493 Adams Arms $500 http://www.bushmaster.com/products.asp?cat=6#GP-GSR $400 http://www.impactguns.com/store/100003961.html CMMG $489 http://www.centerfiresystems.com/ar15m16ga...-gaspiston.aspx $250 http://www.pkfirearms.com/content/1/20/98/120 Ares $635 http://www.pkfirearms.com/content/1/20/99/121 CMMG $670 http://www.pof-usa.com/upper/upper415-64X.htm http://www.tnwfirearms.com/ar_gas_piston_kit.shtml ($249) Other references - http://www.kel-tec-cnc.com/su16a.htm http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=59203 http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthr...2624&page=4 http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&...18&t=396972
  9. I cannot tell you for certain that the supply is dwindling, only that my gunsmith bought a lot of 15; sold 9 at a gun show one weekend; I bought one from him and one or two other people were lined up for what was left. That is some sort of indication along with my research on the internet; I found only a few commercial sites that have them in stock (not the auction sites), but I don't seen an abundance Surplus mags are scarce and pricey; aftermarket mags seem plentiful. Question: The CZ52 will have small "dots" on the sight rib. The interpretation of their purpose is in dispute - http://www.harringtonproducts.com/markings.php Anyone know anything else about these markings?
  10. CZ52 supply seems to be drying up, so from the standpoint of availability and collector value, you may want to get this one. I just bought a CZ52 from my gunsmith a couple of months ago. I personally like the appearance of the CZ52 more than other pistols using the 7.62x25. I'm sure you must be aware that the rifling is polygonal, and that the bullet is so fast out of this gun that it can penetrate body armor. I am told that if you take one to a firing range, it is a real blaster and will cause everyone else to stop what they are doing to see what all the noise is about! One last note. I bought two Triple K aftermarket magazines. Both jammed out of the box. However, they can be made to work properly. One, put the front of the magazine in a vise, and squeeze the front curved part of the mag so that a cartridge will move freely when perpendicular to the mag body; in mine, the bullet end was jamming against the front due to lack of proper spacing. Two, the back side of the mag has a metal overlap that is too wide. Use a Dremel type tool to grind off about one and one half inch on the top left of the overlap to reduce the width. That fixed it for me.
  11. ncpatriot

    BRD Shop

    I live in Wake County area. Have not yet seen what you are seeking anywhere in the immediate area; just internet sites. There are probably other shops about which I know nothing. NC partial list with some ar15 stuff: http://www.classicarms.us ..........Indian Trail, NC (near Charlotte) http://dpharms.com/ ................DPH Arms, Burlington, NC http://www.tickbitesupply.com/ ...............Tick Bite Supply, Ayden, NC (near Greenville) http://www.del-ton.com/ ...........Elizabethtown, NC http://www.ftfindustries.com/ .........Hickory, NC Also, there is Perry's Gun Shop in Wendel, NC which normally had good selection of hand guns, some rifles, ammo, but no ar15 as I recall. Still, an interesting place to visit. I did get a Hi-Point 9mm there. If you find a good shop as you are seeking, be sure to post. Do you go to the gun shows at the NC State fairgrounds? If you are looking for NC contacts, check out http://www.ncmilitia.org/ .
  12. What is a good source to show how to do a trigger job as you did?
  13. Some time ago, after I bought an M91/30, I also got "Enemy at the Gates" starring Jude Law. More recently, I got "Sniper 2" starring Tom Berenger. Not particularly well written, but entertaining, the writers mistakenly have Berenger refer to a Mosin Nagant as a Mauser! OOPS! If you can get by that, the visuals are entertaining; fun to see a Mosin Nagant sniper rifle in action.
  14. Roger on the stock number. The receiver and barrel match; nothing else. There was a new number put on the side of the butt part of the stock to match the receiver. I found that the real stock serial numbers were placed on the bottom edge of the butt part of the stock, about half way along the edge towards the back. It is extremely vague.
  15. Deleted. Redundant web link.
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