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Everything posted by GoMopar440

  1. GoMopar440

    Gun plating finishes

    I was hoping if someone here with a bit of experience on the subject could help me with a little info. I'm looking into getting my AR plated rather than using an applied finish like Ceracoat or Duracoat. So far the matte Hard Chrome seems to be the closest match to what I'm looking for color and appearance wise. I'd like it to be more of a medium greyish color but I haven't really found anything closer than the Hard Chrome. Most of the websites that came up when I Googled for it had everything listed as one price for this or that and then listed a bunch of other prices for other pieces seperately. Just a bit confusing if you ask me. Has anyone here had their entire AR Hard Chrome plated and approximately how much did it cost? I'm also looking for recommendations on where to get the plating done at. I'm trying to get feedback from actual customers about quality of work, turnaround time and customer service.
  2. GoMopar440

    Gas prices in your area

    We got some regular for $2.04 today at a local Wal-Mart (Murphy's). Of course we have about five oil refineries across the bay from us, so that may have a little to do with it.
  3. GoMopar440

    The next step

    Howdy folks, It's the Mopar nut again. It was suggested that I move my HBDVMAR thread out of the beginners section, but I was a beginner when it started there so I let it stay. For this next AR build I will be starting the thread here in the Armorer section due to the amount of custom parts I plan on building for it. My plan is to build a shorter dissipator style AR this time. This one is for my wife, so I let her tell me what she wants in and on it. So far she's said she wants a light weight rifle/carbine with a long hand guard, short stock, tactical light and a laser. There's one stipulation though... She want's me to to manufacture as many of the parts as I can with the tools and materials I have available to me. So far I've come up with a few ideas for the custom parts: - Stainless Muzzle Brake/ Compensator. (kinda like a Midevial or Shark) - Aluminum Butt Stock (something like an Ace or SOCOM) - Aluminum FF Hand Guard (round tube type with some short rail sections added where needed) - Aluminum Gas Block w/folding BUIS - Aluminum rear BUIS For the commercial parts: - CMMG Lower Receiver (got it yesterday) - DPMS LPK (got it from the AR15Armory/Addax group buy) - A3 style upper - Magpul MIAD Full Grip kit - Commercial Carbine Buffer Tube (without detents for M4 type stock) - Magpul Pmags I'm still researching sources for the dissipator parts, but the ones listed above are pretty much definate at this point. I built up the CMMG lower yesterday using the DPMS LPK, but I can't post any pics till my home internet connection is fixed. Photobucket and a bunch of other stuff is blocked here at work.
  4. GoMopar440

    The next step

    Thank's Chris, I appreciate the offer. Tam got home from Florida yesterday and tried her Dissy on for size. With the 16" HB on it, the AR's heavier than she thought it would be, so I doubt I'll go any longer on the barrel. If anything I may go the other way and cut the barrel down to 14.5" and flute it to lighten it up some. I'll probably swap out the steel gas block and FSB with some aluminum ones to trim some more weight off the front of the rifle.
  5. GoMopar440

    The next step

    I sent 100 rounds down range today without a single problem. I didn't bother putting any targets up since I'm still waiting on the rear sight to arrive.
  6. GoMopar440

    The next step

    The correct parts arrived in the mail this afternoon I was finally able to get started assembling the Dissy. I was under the impression that a Dissipator AR was supposed to have a rifle length gas system, but this one came with a CAR length gas system under the handguard. The new quad rail handguards wouldn't fit over the barrel because the gas block was too wide to clear under it. Not wanting to just hack it up, I put the upper assembly in the vise on the mill and trimmed the gas block down to the bare minimum. I checked the fit of the handguard again but there was still some contact between the gas block and upper half of the handguard. Next I clamped the handguard in the vise and milled out some room to clear room for the now substantially smaller gas block. The upper half of the handguard now fit over the gas block with room to spare. The clearancing could have been done with a dremel, but I wanted it to look more professional. Getting the foam on the stock wasn't too bad after I added a little soap inside the foam. It went on the assembled lower without a hitch. However, it looks like the ACE Skeleton Entry stock won't leave me enough room to make it adjustable like the drawing I made. I guess I'll just save that idea for the next build since I like the size of this one as is. I'm going to put a few rounds through it tomorrow to see how it runs.
  7. GoMopar440

    Newbie Wants to build a varmint/ranch AR15

    I'm fairly new here myself so some of the other more knowledgeable guys will be better able to answer your questions. Having said that, it sounds like you may want an open sighted AR with a red dot type of optic on it. They will allow you to look through them to your sights when your not using the optic without having to remove it first. The red dot type optics also allow for extremely fast target aquisition. Someting it sounds like you'll need for the rifle's intended use. For length, I've heard that a 16" is adequate for most GP use at those ranges. 1" MOA at 100 yds accuracy should be attainable on a well built AR with a good 16" barrel. Use a shorter CAR (carbine) type stock to keep the overall length manageable. You should be able to bring the rifle to bear from the vehicle fairly easily if you get used to the length and how you plan on storing it by practicing with it. The trick is to train yourself the same way you plan to use the rifle. BTW: Welcome to the Armory. Where in South Texas are you? I'm located just north of Corpus Christi.
  8. GoMopar440

    FF Rails, ring height, and butt-stock question

    I have an Vltor MUR A3 style upper with a SuperSniper 10X42 scope mounted on high rings and a PRS stock on the last AR I built. I had medium rings on first, but I had to crane my head over too much to see through the scope. That was even with the PRS cheek rest all the way down. The high rings fixed that. I wish I had found Addax's site before I bought my PRS. I could have saved about $40 by getting it from them. BTW: Check out the Bobro Gen II bipod on on the Addax site. I have one on my AR and IMHO they're rock solid and are lighter than they look.
  9. GoMopar440

    New guy, new gun...

    The pins went in as per the directions without a hitch. It only took about 5 minutes to install them. Unfortunately the shooting range is EXTREMELY muddy as they've been getting a lot of rain while I was gone. Looks like more of the same weather for today as well. Hopefully it'll be dried up enough to head out there this weekend. I'd like to get at least another hundred rounds through it for break-in before I start to try to dial it in.
  10. GoMopar440

    New guy, new gun...

    I'm building an AR for some moderately long range paper and/or little furry target shooting. I'm still learning about these rifles and there's a lot to take in. I figure it'll be good practice for the gunsmith course I'm taking right now. So far I've decided on building it with the following parts: - CMMG .223/5.56 lower - DPMS LPK - Vltor MUR upper w/ shell deflector only - Magpul PRS stock - Badger Ordnance AR-15 Stabilizer Handguard - Sabre Defence 20" Heavy Varmint barrel, stainless steel, 1-8 twist, fluted & threaded - Harris swivel bipod (now using a Bobro Gen II) - SWFA 10x42M Super Sniper scope w/ side paralax adj. (used the rear paralax model instead) EDIT: Added some updated info: - Magpul MIAD Full Grip kit - Magpul 20 rnd Pmags (x6) - High Mount Tacticool Scope rings (needed to achieve proper sight picture) - Aluma Guard II, SS Grey for the main metal parts. It will be a two tone medium grey and black overall. Well, that's the majority of it for now. I still have to work out the fine details before I get all the parts together. I welcome any suggestions regarding any compatibility with the parts I listed above.
  11. GoMopar440

    The next step

    Well, all is not yet lost. They were willing to make it right and they gave me a shipping number so I could send the parts back out to them. Since I sent it from the local UPS store they said they are going to be sending the replacement parts out today. The packages should cross each other in the mail tomorrow and hopefully arrive by Friday.
  12. GoMopar440

    New guy, new gun...

    It's not the size, it's how you use it. Anywhoo... The KNS pins arrived from Addax. I'll install them tomorrow and head out to the range to check it out.
  13. GoMopar440

    The next step

    Too late, the parts are here. Two boxes were waiting for me when I got home from Florida. The FF quad rail from Addax was here as well as the dissipator kit I ordered from Ranger Sales. After looking at it, the FF quad rail actually isn't a FF rail at all. It uses the delta ring and the forward hand guard retainer to hold it in place. It was my mistake for not reading the details on that one so I'll just run with it. The other box containing the kit was labeled as coming from Model 1 Sales LTD, NOT Ranger Sales. I don't really mind that but I would rather know who I'm dealing with upfront. What I found when I opened that box was a bit more bothersome though. I ordered a 16" Dissipator kit with an A3 upper and an ACE Skeleton Entry stock with the appropriate CAR length buffer parts. What I got was a 16" Dissipator kit with an A2 upper and a rifle length ACE Skeleton stock, rifle buffer tube, buffer and spring. I'm a bit pissed about the parts I received from Ranger/Model1, but I'll reserve further judgement until after I call them tomorrow to see what they are going to do to make this right.
  14. GoMopar440

    The next step

    Whichever one was the cheapest FF 4 rail that Addax had in stock. I'm probably going to modify it so I didn't want to spend a bunch on it. EDIT: Here's the one: http://www.adxtactical.com/store/pc/viewPr...p;idproduct=292
  15. GoMopar440

    New guy, new gun...

    I took the HBDVMAR out to the range today along with my friend who also brought his AR15 carbine. I shot about two mags before the trigger pin popped out again. Before that, I was getting about 1" groups at 50yds. When I got home I popped the trigger pin back in place and started to clean the rifle. It was then that I noticed that the barrel nut had started to loosen up a little bit. First things first though, I completely dissassembled the upper and cleaned everything up. Then I reassembled the upper assembly, this time adding blue locktite to the FF mounting block and barrel nut as well as the rest of the barrel parts. Hopefully I'll be able to get some better groups next time out. Before I take it out to the range again, I'm going to install some non-rotating KNS trigger pins. I ordered then from Addax tonight so it shouldn't be too long before I'm back in action.
  16. GoMopar440

    The next step

    I found a couple of sources for Dissipator kits online. after searching around for a while, Model 1, Blackthorne, AR-15 Kits and Ranger Sales were the ones I found. After hearing about Blackthorne's questionable reputation for parts quality and poor shipping, I decided to take them off the list. Model 1 is based in TX, so I skipped them to avoid having to pay state sales tax. AR-15 Kits didn't list wether they had any kits in stock or not, so I skipped them. That left Ranger Sales which was out of state and they listed 12 kits available and in stock so I ordered from them. I chose an A3 style upper and added an ACE Skeleton Entry stock on the order. I also ordered a FF 4 rail handguard for it from Addax tonight. It's not even here yet and I'm already switching it up. LOL!
  17. GoMopar440

    Hurricane Ike and Texas

    It looks like Ike blew most of it's wad up around Galveston/Houston area. We didn't get any of the expected rain and wind at all down here last night. The tides came up about 5'-6' feet above normal about 4am but that seems to have been the worst of it for the Corpus Christi/Port Aransas area.
  18. GoMopar440

    Well with impending doom from ike

    I stocked up on a little more ammo Wednesday when Ike was still forcast as heading directly for Corpus Christi. I now have six 20 round Pmags loaded for the AR, 6 30 round mags loaded for the AK, five 3" 00Buck 12ga rounds in the 870, two slug shells in the SxS, two 7 round mags of .45ACP+P Tap ammo for the 1911, and two 7 round mags of 9mm+p Tap ammo for the PF-9. I didn't load the bolt action rifles. As Red Barron stated above, if I need any more ammo than I have loaded right now, I shouldn't be where ever I'm at.
  19. GoMopar440

    Hurricane Ike and Texas

    I feel like an outfielder looking into the sun trying to find the ball. I know it's coming, and it's not a matter of if it's going to hit us or not, just how bad will it be. I'm still in the forcast landfall cone area, but at the lower edge, just North of Corpus Christi. The city hasn't ordered anyone to evacuate (my work wanted me to though) but they have been bussing out special needs people since yesterday. I have the RV ready to go but I'll have to leave my truck behind since it's too heavy for this thing to tow. If Ike doesn't change course at least a little bit further North soon, I'll be pulling out about 4:00pm and heading West towards Laredo.
  20. GoMopar440

    I would like some opinions please

    Have you tried different mags yet? EDIT: Different BRANDS of mags that is. Were the mags you tried all from the same manufacturer is what I meant to ask?
  21. GoMopar440

    Question about Selling a AR10

    Since you're not a FFL holding dealer it would be difficult for you to verify if the buyer meets the above criteria. The best way to CYA on that issue is to have him provide a hunting lisence as proof that his state is willing to allow him to use a firearm. I'm not 100% that would fly as a legal excuse, but as a private party sale, it's probably more than mose people do in FTF sales.
  22. GoMopar440

    New guy, new gun...

    Well, FWIW here's the vid. I can't figure out the editing stuff, so it's just some raw footage. It looks like the powder is all burnt up before it gets to the comp so there's no flash to hide. It does seem to help minimize felt recoil though. Unfortunately the video ate up the last of my batteries in my camera so it's the only vid or pic I got today. I put 100 rounds down range today and mostly just concentrated on getting the gun broke in. I only sighted it in for 100 yards since I don't have a spotting scope and I could barely see my hits at that range. I didn't bother to measure groupings on this trip so I don't have any data for that. The first 40 rounds were brass cased 55gr FMJ Monarchs (green box) from Academy. No problems with them function wise, but I'd like to see a little better accuracy. The next 20 were brass cased 55gr Soft Point Monarch (black&tan box) also from Academy. These were pretty good actually. It's more accurate than the Monarch green box stuff and functioned flawlessly as well. I need to shoot some more of this stuff to see how accurate I can get with it. The last 40 rounds was aluminum cased 62gr Wolf JHP. This stuff was total crap. It was jamming, failing to eject, had some copper from the bullet jacket shaved from the loading process and it had copper chips wedged in the crimps. I pitched out at least 10 rounds of that Wolf garbage that I deemed unsafe to shoot. The rest of it I kept fighting the jaming and sticking issues till it was finally all gone. I just wanted to get rid of that crap at that point. The only reason I tried the Wolf stuff was because it was the only .223 Rem ammo I could find locally that wasn't 55gr. I also had some steel cased 55gr Monarch ammo on hand, but after checking how well it fit the chamber I decided against using it. The casings were sticking in the chamber due to the coating on the steel. I didn't want to have the same issues I had fighting with the Wolf ammo so I gave that away to my friend. He put it to good use in the mini-14 that he had bought from me a few months back. Every 5-10 rounds I opened up the AR and cleaned it out thouroughly. It took a while, but I believe it was worth it. Some people say to clean after every round when breaking in a new gun, but I prefer to let the powder residue act as sort of a lapping compound between the internal parts. On another note, the Aluma Hyde has stood up very well to the cleaning solvents and lubes I threw at it today. I used some Otters Nitro bore solvent to clean out the bore, chamber and BCG and then some CLP to lube it back up. I laid it on thick to help keep the residue in the action moving around. Everything seems to be a bit smoother now so I believe the break in is off to a good start. The only issue I had with the gun itself at all today was the trigger pin popped out the left side twice. The pin came out 1/8" which was enough for it to come completely out of the right side of thhe receiver and the trigger would then twist and bind up. It caused me to look over the rifle till I noticed what was wrong. It was easy enough to just realign the pin and tap it back in place. However, I'm going to order a set of anti rotation pins to prevent that from happening again. I was having some pretty bad back spasams walking out to the targets after a while so I had to call it a day. I'll try to get back out to the range soon and start working on the accuracy next. BTW: I brought out a infrared themometer to check the temperatures on the barrel and the comp. Slow firing about a minute apart the barrel only got to about 95-98 degrees. This was measured between the gas block and the comp. The Comp and the gas block both seemed to run about the same temperature during slow firing, 84-88 degrees. When I was getting rid of theh Wolf ammo I started to rapid fire just to get rid of it. Not very fast, but fast enough to shoot and then reaquire the target and shoot again and so on. The shots were about 1-2 seconds apart for about 15 rounds. The barrel got up to 175 degrees and the comp and gas block got up to 145. What does this mean? Nothing really. I just got a new toy (the thermometer) and wanted to try it out on something.
  23. GoMopar440


    I'm Navy, but we all work for the same boss. While I'm not technically a vet yet, I'm still on active duty (19 yrs) and have one more year to go before I retire.
  24. GoMopar440

    new ar build

    Very nice barrel, same as mine but 4" longer and no threads on it. There's even room on the end to add threads later if you want to, so it's all good. Here's a complete chrome BCG for $155 ---> DPMS chrome BCG. For the same price as the YM BCG you can get a titanium BCG from Addax. BTW, Did you notice that the YM BCG doesn't have the forward assist grooves? The picture looks like it may have, them but the written discription says they are not on there. Might want to check into that before you buy if you plan on having a Forward Assist upper. The same CTR stock is cheaper at Addax's website ---> Magpul CTR stock I hope this info will help you out. It's good to be able to save a buck and still get quality stuff. EDIT: I almost forgot. If you sig up for an account at Addax and tell them your an AR15Armory.com member you get a discount. Once you sgn up and they add you as a member, you just log in to see the AR15Armory member prices. They will be displayed under the regular prices as long as you are logged in to your account. Give them a call and talk to them if you need to know the member prices right away before you account is activated. You won't regret it!
  25. GoMopar440

    New guy, new gun...

    So I guess I'll try to pick up whatever I can find (and afford) tomorrow then and just see what it does. The 55 grain stuff I'll initially use for sighting it in since I already have about six boxes of that. I'm trying to get my friend to go to the range with me. If he does go I'll have him use the video function on my camera to get an action shot of the new comp in action. I'd like to try to slow down the video frame rate and see if I can see the gas pattern as it exits the sides of the comp. I've never messed with video much though so don't keep you hopes up for that. There will at least be pics for sure though. I'll let y'all know how it works out tomorrow evening.