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makdaddy386

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  1. This is a detailed write-up on how to install/change out the end plate on your collapsible stock AR-15 for a sling attachment end plate. Tools needed: -Castle Nut Wrench / AR-15 Multi Tool (pictured below) -Small Tool to depress Buffer Retainer (anything will work, I used a small hex tool) Here is an example of an AR-15 Multi Tool below. I am not advocating one brand over another, just make sure the tool you do purchase has some strength to it. Please DO NOT make the mistake of buying one of the "disposable" tools which will very likely break and injure you in the process. The tool on the left is a solid tool which has the castle nut wrench built in. The tool on the right is the "disposable" tool. Step 1: The first thing you will want to do is separate your upper from your lower. Remove the front and rear takedown pin, seperate upper from lower and set upper aside. The only part of the rifle needed for this is the lower. Step 2: Take the collapsible stock off of the buffer tube. To do this pull down, away from the buffer tube, and slide the stock off the end of the tube. Step 3: Now you can take the castle nut wrench and remove the CAR Stock Lock Ring. To remove the Lock Ring, turn it counter-clockwise. The Lock Ring is on tight and some come staked from the factory so take it slow make sure you don't slip. If your Lock Ring is staked there is a couple different ways of approaching this. Some prefer to take a small punch and push the metal burr back out of the way. If you have a good wrench you can pull right through the staking without problem, just make sure you do not slip. This is where having a bench vise comes in handy to hold the lower while you turn the wrench. Staked Lock Ring (courtesy - gotm4): Not Staked: Remove by turning counter-clockwise: Step 4: Now you can pull the end plate away from the main body of the lower. BE CAREFUL HERE! There is a small spring located behind the end plate which will go flying if you do not pay attention. The spring presses the Detent Pin against the channel carved in the Rear Takedown Pin which is why the pin will not fall out of the lower. Here is a picture of the small spring: Step 5: Once you have loosened the Lock Ring and End Plate, remove the Buffer Tube Spring and the gold colored piece inside it (Buffer Body Assembly) by depressing the Buffer Retainer Pin with a small tool (I used a small hex key). Any smaller diameter tool will work. Then just pull out the Assembly along with the Spring. Set these parts aside. Step 6: Now depress the Buffer Retainer Pin again to allow you to turn the entire Buffer Tube counter-clockwise. Once the notch in the Buffer Tube clears the Retainer Pin you will be able to completely remove the Buffer Tube. Step 7: Remove the stock End Plate and replace with your choice Sling Attachment Plate. Pictured here is an Ambidextrous Double Loop Sling Attachment End Plate. Step 8: Reverse steps 1-7 for re-assembly and pat yourself on the back. Now you can attach a single point sling to your weapon. Pictured is a modular system by Urban E.R.T. Slings. Before & After: Feel free to add something if I forgot about anything. Open to advice if these How-To's are helpful and you guys would like to see more or if you don't really care for them. Please give feedback....Thanks. -Kevin ***Disclaimer: These are guidelines and to be treated as such. Modifications to your rifle may void your warranty if you have one. I do not assume responsibility for any damages incurred as a result of modifying your rifle.***  
  2. How To Install Sling Attachment Plate This is a detailed write-up on how to install/change out the end plate on your collapsible stock AR-15 for a sling attachment end plate. Tools needed: -Castle Nut Wrench / AR-15 Multi Tool (pictured below) -Small Tool to depress Buffer Retainer (anything will work, I used a small hex tool) Here is an example of an AR-15 Multi Tool below. I am not advocating one brand over another, just make sure the tool you do purchase has some strength to it. Please DO NOT make the mistake of buying one of the "disposable" tools which will very likely break and injure you in the process. The tool on the left is a solid tool which has the castle nut wrench built in. The tool on the right is the "disposable" tool. Step 1: The first thing you will want to do is separate your upper from your lower. Remove the front and rear takedown pin, seperate upper from lower and set upper aside. The only part of the rifle needed for this is the lower. Step 2: Take the collapsible stock off of the buffer tube. To do this pull down, away from the buffer tube, and slide the stock off the end of the tube. Step 3: Now you can take the castle nut wrench and remove the CAR Stock Lock Ring. To remove the Lock Ring, turn it counter-clockwise. The Lock Ring is on tight and some come staked from the factory so take it slow make sure you don't slip. If your Lock Ring is staked there is a couple different ways of approaching this. Some prefer to take a small punch and push the metal burr back out of the way. If you have a good wrench you can pull right through the staking without problem, just make sure you do not slip. This is where having a bench vise comes in handy to hold the lower while you turn the wrench. Staked Lock Ring (courtesy - gotm4): Not Staked: Remove by turning counter-clockwise: Step 4: Now you can pull the end plate away from the main body of the lower. BE CAREFUL HERE! There is a small spring located behind the end plate which will go flying if you do not pay attention. The spring presses the Detent Pin against the channel carved in the Rear Takedown Pin which is why the pin will not fall out of the lower. Here is a picture of the small spring: Step 5: Once you have loosened the Lock Ring and End Plate, remove the Buffer Tube Spring and the gold colored piece inside it (Buffer Body Assembly) by depressing the Buffer Retainer Pin with a small tool (I used a small hex key). Any smaller diameter tool will work. Then just pull out the Assembly along with the Spring. Set these parts aside. Step 6: Now depress the Buffer Retainer Pin again to allow you to turn the entire Buffer Tube counter-clockwise. Once the notch in the Buffer Tube clears the Retainer Pin you will be able to completely remove the Buffer Tube. Step 7: Remove the stock End Plate and replace with your choice Sling Attachment Plate. Pictured here is an Ambidextrous Double Loop Sling Attachment End Plate. Step 8: Reverse steps 1-7 for re-assembly and pat yourself on the back. Now you can attach a single point sling to your weapon. Pictured is a modular system by Urban E.R.T. Slings. Before & After: Feel free to add something if I forgot about anything. Open to advice if these How-To's are helpful and you guys would like to see more or if you don't really care for them. Please give feedback....Thanks. -Kevin ***Disclaimer: These are guidelines and to be treated as such. Modifications to your rifle may void your warranty if you have one. I do not assume responsibility for any damages incurred as a result of modifying your rifle.*** Author makdaddy386 Category Submitted 02/16/2013 03:59 PM  
  3. How-To: Mag Refinishing Courtesy of Nwatson99: This is for home use and quick repair, if you really want a finish to last you would have to send them off for a Black T or Teflon Coating. I use to use Perma Slik G it comes in an aerosol can. 1. Go and buy your self a square cookie sheet that you will only use for the Mags. 2. Clean your Mags inside and out with a degreaser and tooth brush. ( I use the MR. Clean lemon degreaser your wife probably buys for mopping the floors ). 3. After you clean your Mags stick them in the oven at 200 degrees for 30 to 45 minutes ( This dries the moisture out of the Mags and opens the pores in the metal ). 4. Have you a nice clean place to lay you Mags after you get them out of the oven that you can spray the Perma Slik G and it won't make a mess so your wife doesn't kick your ass. 5. Spray the first coat of Perma Slik G on the Mags until the entire Mag is covered except for the side the Mag is lying on. You will see the Perma Slik G dry almost instantly when you spray it on. ( Spray it with light Coats not heavy or thick it will run and you will have splotches) 6. Flip over the Mags and coat the bare metal sides. Once the side you just sprayed has dried to the touch, flip them over again and repeat the process until you have Lightly covered the entire Mag twice. 7. After the Mags are covered with two coats and you can touch them turn your oven on to 300 degrees, place the Mags back on the square cookie sheet and bake in the oven for one hour. After the hour is up remove the Mags from the oven and let them set until they are room temperature. 8. After the Mags have cooled down and cured for 6 to 8 hours is the time I give them, you will feel a light grainy texture to the Mags, get a clean cloth and spray one side at a time with WD-40 and them wipe the Mag with a clean cloth. You will see a gray film on you towel or cloth but don't worry it is only the over spray and what lube has hardened and turn to like a dust grain. Some people might say don't use WD-40 that it hold moisture but it works the best for this that I have found, however I would not clean you guns with it. WD-40 will wash off your Gun oil and your gun will start to rust then. 9. Once you have cleaned your Mags they will be shiny and have a new finish. Remember unless you send the Mags of to have a $20.00 per Mag Moly Resin finish they will get rub Marks and scratches on them. If you want to touch up your Mags with this stuff it is easy just clean it heat and re-spray you do not have to remove the finish that is left on the Mags from your first or third coating while using the Perma Slik G. Here is the only photos I could find of the Colt mags I did. [b]Before:[/b] [img]http://www.AR15Armory.com/forums/uploads/1227796671/gallery_1_1_56630.jpg[/img] [b]After[/b] [img]http://www.AR15Armory.com/forums/uploads/1227796671/gallery_1_1_56740.jpg[/img] [b]30Rd Labelles[/b] [img]http://www.AR15Armory.com/forums/uploads/1227796671/gallery_1_1_21620.jpg[/img] Author makdaddy386 Category Submitted 12/26/2008 03:12 PM  
  4. How-To: Make Mag Pull Loops [center][b][size=3]How To Make Homemade Mag Pull Loops[/size] from 550 cord[/b][/center] This write-up is to demonstrate how you can make cheap and easy mag pull loops by using a small amount of 550 cord. The process is very quick and costs pennies compared to buying them pre-made. Keep in mind this is one of many versions and I by no means claim to have developed this method. The purpose of mag pull loops is varied depending on operator. Magazine loops can be used for a quicker draw from a magazine pouch, consistent hand placement during magazine retrieval, an assist to hold multiple magazines at a time (as in a tactical/"plus-up" reload) and also as a hold for empty magazines to keep from dumping into dirt/sand/debri during an engagment. You can also use magazine loops for carrying empty magazines on a carabiner as an alternative to a dump pouch. First you will want to cut a length of 550 cord for each magazine which you intend to modify. The length will depend on how long you want the loop. I like my end result to leave room for about 1 and 1/2 fingers inside the loop. This would translate to approximately 5-6 inches of cord. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2484.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2486.jpg[/img] Next you will want to take the cut strands of 550 cord and "gut" them by pulling out the interior strands. Gut all cord lengths. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2488.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2491.jpg[/img] Then simply take the cord and tie a simple overhand knot on each side of the length of cord. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2493.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2498.jpg[/img] This step is not necessary, however, doing this will ensure the cord will not fray. Take the cord and close up the loose ends with a small flame. (It only takes a few short seconds) [center] [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2499.jpg[/img][/center] Next, open up your magazines by gently prying open the floorplate and sliding it open. (Make sure to bend back straight after you open for a good lock when you close it) [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2502.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2504.jpg[/img] Now you can take your lengths of cord which you have tied on the ends and place inside the magazine body. I place mine just under the first spring loop. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2505.jpg[/img] Then just close the magazine floorplate back up and voila! Now you have some nice looking pull loops on your mags which can easily be removed/replaced if desired. [center][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/DSCN2506.jpg[/img][/center] Author makdaddy386 Category Submitted 01/12/2009 06:13 AM  
  5. This is the support topic for the tutorial How-To: Install Sling Attachment Plate. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  6. Magpul Gen III Self Leveling Follower [size=3][b]Magpul Gen III Self Leveling Follower[/b][/size] [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0179.jpg[/img] Christmas came a few days early from my loved one this year. I was lucky enough to receive enough new followers from Magpul to replace all my magazines green followers. The new followers are designed to fix the problem with the standard issue green followers which are notorious for being the cause behind many failure to feed issues. My initial impressions are very solid. Magpul's Self Leveling Followers hold true to Magpul's reputation of pushing the envelope to produce top shelf working rifle parts. All the gear I acquire is subjected to serious abuse in real world operations and training. Having that said, everything I have tested from Magpul has stood up to the abuse and continued to take more without fail. First impressions of the Gen III followers look like this product will be no different from the rest of their line. Alright so on to the evaluation: [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0182.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0181.jpg[/img] Pictured above is the new Magpul followers (yellow) next to the standard issue green followers (green). Here is the classic problem with the green followers. As you can see, the green followers will tilt from time to time, preventing the follower from traveling freely inside the magazine body. This is due to a design flaw with the green followers. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0183.jpg[/img] Magpul has designed a new plastic follower which includes an extended piece which travels down the body of the magazine preventing the follower from tilting. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0185.jpg[/img] [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0186.jpg[/img] [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0187.jpg[/img] Installation of the new followers is a breeze. Simply take your magazine, lightly pry up the bottom of your magazine baseplate via the hole. You can use almost any tool to do this. Pictured here is a small allen/hex key. In a pinch you can even use the tip of a cartridge from your ammo stock. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0193.jpg[/img] Next, slide the baseplate off and remove the spring from the magazine body. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0195.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0196.jpg[/img] Now take your green follower and remove from the magazine spring. Replace with new follower (this will only go on properly one way). [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0198.jpg[/img][img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0200.jpg[/img] Reinstall the opposite of disassembly. Note: make sure to bend the baseplate back down gently to ensure the detents will retain the baseplate from sliding out of the body. Fitment is better than the green followers. Now you can push down on the leading edge of your newly installed followers and see that you can not tilt them downward causing a feed failure. Hence the name Anti-Tilt followers. I currently have tested them on two brands of magazines. I have USGI mags from Okay Industries and a couple D&H mags which have black Teflon coating on them. On the initial evaluation, the Magpul followers worked flawlessly in the D&H Teflon coated mags. However, on the non-coated magazines, the followers would sometimes catch when I depressed them with my finger on the leading edge (the side which would point towards the front of your rifle when seated in the weapon). When trying to test if I could tilt the anti-tilt followers inside the Okay Industries mags, they would sometimes stick around 1 inch inside the magazine and not slide freely unless I dislodged them. The follower would sit level but it apparently wouldn't move due to the friction inside the magazine body. When I tried to replicate this problem so I could take photos the following day, of course, no more problem. Since then I have had no problems inside either magazine. Everything stated above is a preliminary evaluation based solely on the installation and I will update this thread with further testing as it is conducted. [img]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e232/makdaddy386/AR-15/IMG_0204.jpg[/img] Summary: I am very impressed with the quality of the part. Installation is a breeze. The followers come in packages of three with a detailed instruction pamphlet. I will definitely be upgrading any other green follower clad magazines with these followers in the future and I would recommend them to anyone who asked. And for those of you who don't like yellow, Magpul produces these in two colors to soothe your tactical taste buds. They come in Yellow (pictured), and Foliage Green. Author makdaddy386 Category Submitted 12/24/2008 12:36 AM  
  7. And I would prefer to do the Noveske 10.5" Barrel w/ Switchblock but I can't figure out where to find the quad rail with the gap on top for Switchblock adjustment. Any suggestions? I'm calling Noveske tommorow...
  8. Okay so the list is looking like this so far: -Noveske Upper/Lower -Complete Parts Kit from Palmetto State Armory w/ MOE furniture -10.5" Noveske Barrel w/ Low-Pro Gas -10" Midwest Industries Handguard -Magpul Front MBUS -Magpul Rear MBUS -Noveske BCG -PSA Charging Handle -AAC 51T Blackout Flash Suppressor Can anyone think of a single part that I'm forgetting about? I want to make sure I have everything
  9. Steelborn1, these are the kind of parts I'm trying to track down. Thanks. Keep the suggestions coming guys...
  10. Trust me I didn't mean it to shoot your reply down. I really appreciate all the input. I was just clarifying my purpose for the build. This rifle will have the capacity to reach out a couple hundred yards. It will just never make that shot outside of a range. Most people get lost in the reality of how far a 100 yard shot is. More particularly in reference to a live target. Having all the time in the world to aim at a piece of paper is one thing, but a moving target at that distance will not be engaged with this rifle period.
  11. gotcha thanks for the help. Where are most people engraving if the manufacturers info is already in the obvious spot?
  12. The work capacity for this rifle is pretty much CQB only. I think way too many people get caught up in the distance or range argument. No offense but so many people make these ridiculous decisions based on being able to reach out with their AR-15 to 100 yards +. If you want your rifle to perform like this at the range for fun thats awesome. If you want this for work purposes, there is something wrong if you are taking a 200 yard shot with your SBR AR-15. Can it happen? Of course. Is it great for peace of mind? Of course. But the reality is a sniper or somebody on perimeter will be taking a shot at 50 yards and out. Its just not what this rifle is intended for. Having that said I wont be purchasing a barrel under 10.5" unless it's the DD 10.3" so range wont be an issue. Please don't take offense to this I'm just clarifying the purpose of the build.
  13. Alright so I just wanted to take some suggestions on what your grocery lists would look like. I'm building a SBR and the goal is to build the rifle from the ground up. Budget is NOT unlimited so lets be somewhat conservative and the main idea is lightweight. This is a work rifle that will be used and carried daily so I want to take as much weight off my rig as possible. All input welcome... So far the list is looking like: -Undecided on exact stripped lower -Palmetto State Arms LPK w/ Magpul furniture -10.5" Noveske Barrel / 10.3" Daniel Defense Lightweight Barrel There is a lot of stuff missing from this list so far so I'm calling for help. Thanks....
  14. So if I currently have a rifle, and I want to purchase a SBR upper for it...do I need to engrave my lower or just submit the manufacturer's info since I didn't technically make the rifle?
  15. What's wrong with granola bars on the vest?! No seriously, what's wrong with granola bars on the vest? Nature's Valley FTW.....okay I guess I'm on my own here. P.S. The multi-camo works great
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