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Showing results for tags 'barrel'.
Found 15 results
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Link to my listing: NO EBAY LINKS POSTER DOES NOT HAVE THE REQUIRED NUMBER OF POSTS TO LIST HERE. PLEASE REFER TO POSTING RULES. Greg -
Hi all! Christmas was great, got a new comp for my AR15 platform. In my excitement I wanted to get right to removing the flash hider and adding the new compensator. I messed up. With two people holding the gun at every place but the barrel, we made the barrel rotate and not the muzzle device. Immediately it was obvious since this is a free float system that the gas tube bent and went FUBAR. I then to my despair went searching the internet with the worst thoughts of "how bad did I mess this up? Do I need a new upper? How expensive could this get?". Not much came up but I did see a lot about shearing the index pin, which caused barrel rotation in similar attempts to remove muzzle devices due to no grip on the barrel. However, I am not using a simple barrel nut. This is an American Tactical Imports AR with the Head Down Provectus system, which uses their own barrel nut that is not only difficult to get off since our combo wrench doesn't line up, but I can't tell with this type of rifle if there is an index pin. I'm fairly green to building ARs. My father recently bought his own and we made some slight modifications in-house. This included removing his front sight and barrel nut to install a free float rail and a gas block/pipe to go with it. There were bumps on the way and we worked around them, no details since I'm digressing as-is. TL;DR: Attempted muzzle device removal, barrel rotated, new gas block on the way, anything else I should be concerned with such as the index pin, condition of my upper, etc? Any help is greatly appreciated, and preference is good news first if there is any, or worst news first if there is no good news.
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/794051/ar-stoner-barrel-ar-15-223-remington-wylde-medium-contour-1-in-8-twist-fluted-stainless-steel?cm_mmc=pe_weekly-_-hotbuy-_-ar_stoner_barrel-_-20161010
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Thinking of picking one of these up for my next build. Just wanted to know everyone's opinion. Thanks.
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Hello, this is my first post on the forum and I am somewhat new to the world of AR. I hope that someone here will be able to help me identify what I have. I have a barrel that looks to be nitrided but the extension does not. The barrel extension has a stamp in the 9 o'clock position with a "S" and in the 3 o'clock position with a "4". I am wondering what material is and possibly who the manufacture is. Any help would be great. I will post pictures when I can. Thanks.
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I am really confused about weather I can shoot a .223 through a .556 rifle or a .556 through a .223 rifle. I'm not sure about what it really means to be "mil spec" or commercial. Does a Wylde Chamber matter? what is the essential difference between .223 and .556? If I'm buying stock ammo and not reloading, is that a factor? If I get into reloading, what will be different? I have a RRA heavy 16" mid system stock. I believe its a chrome lined 1:9 twist. I don't know if it is a mil spec or not but it was sold as a .223. I suppose I can find the serial number and get the exact details from Rock River. I'm doing my first build and am trying to get all parts mil spec and the barrel options have been daunting. I'm currently looking at a Criterion barrel with a wilde chamber and M4 feed ramps (which is another thing I'm not to sure about). I get the idea that the Wylde chambering is good since it is advertised so much but I'm not sure what the specific benefit is and if it leaves me with any other negative issue. I'm not sure what all this means in terms of interchangeability with ammo. Any thoughts?
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I'm starting my first complete AR-15 build and decided to go with the 6.8 SPC round. I'm going to be using this rifle mostly for hunting and a little target shooting but can't decide on a barrel. That's where i need y'all's help, i have two barrels picked out either an 18 inch barrel with 1:11 rifling or 16 inch barrel with 1:10 rifling. Note most of my shots will be between 50 and 150 yards and all on medium game sized game. Direct pin point accuracy is not a must. As long as i'm shooting about a golf-ball size group at 100 yards ill be happy.
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Hey I just wanted to update those of you out there with the same upper or BFH barrel from bcm. Mine has around 8000 rounds through it or so. Maybe a little more. Today I shot some of my reloads one being a 55 gr vmax proj./24 gr of varget/ cci 41 primers/ l.c. 14 brass and at about 100 yards I shot a 3/4 inch group and with my horn 75gr proj./23.5 gr varget/cci41 primers/l.c. 14 brass I shot a half inch group. Just thought you would like to know that your bfh barrels, after close to 10000 rounds of hard use and abuse can still achieve sub moa groups. Happy shooting.
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I've had my BHW barrel for about a year now. I've been real happy with it using federal gold medal match 69 grain ammo. Recently I decided to start hand loading. Since the 69 grain gmm ammo worked so well I decided to stick with the 69 grain sierra match king bullets. I'm reloading with PMC brass, Remington 7 1/2 primers, and 24.2 grains of H4895. Some examples of groups I've shot at 100 yards. I have a bunch of these so these aren't only when the stars align groups it happens with pretty good regularity. So after being very happy with it at 100 yards, getting zeroed, and testing muzzle velocity in various temps with a chronograph it was time to hit the longer range. First time out with my hand loads I set up a target at 600 yards. I dialed the scope for the conditions and fired a 5 round group. The 5 round group from 600 yards can be seen on the target they are marked with a black mark beside them. After checking that target and being happy I immediately moved out to 770 yards. I dialed the scope for that range and shot another 5 round group. With my calculations my hand loaded 69 grain smk's went transonic at the 700 yard mark. So I was 70 yards beyond the range of going transonic. The 69 grain smk's became unstable at this range and it shows with key holing on the target. I was still able to get all 5 shots on an idpa size silhouette target at 770 yards. Here is the target:
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So I'm looking at replacing my Delton 16" carbine gas 1x9 barrel with a 14.5" mid-gas 1x7 barrel, and I've narrowed it down to two brands: Daniel Defense and FNH (through Spikes Tactical). What say y'all? Pros, cons on either? Personal opinion, hearsay? I'm having a hard time choosing...
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Ordered 1 of these. Do any of you have good or bad opinions on it: http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=xatib556m4 Mossberg OEM 16" .223/5.56 AR Barrel New Mossberg OEM 16" .223/5.56x45 caliber barrels for AR type Rifles. These high quality M4 profile barrels feature a complete inside and out Melonite coating, 1:7 twist and M4 feed ramps. Specifications: -.223/5.56 Caliber -M4 Profile -1:7 Twist Rate -1/2x28 Muzzle Thread -M4 Feed Ramps -Carbine length gas hole -.750" Gas shoulder
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So I have a question about a part of the law about barrel length when it comes to having a 14.5" barrel with a flash hider/compensator. I know that the overall length with the compensator must come out to at least 16". And I know that the compensator needs to be permanently attached as well. This is my first AR but I plan on building more and was wondering when I have the rifle assembled and go to shoot it if I can legally shoot it to test the compensator to see if its what I want to use on that barrel/rifle or if I want to get another to put on instead before its on for good? I would be swapping them off and on at the same time I go to the range and not just sitting on it for days or weeks. I just simply would like to be able to make sure I'm putting the better compensator on for that specific barrel and rifle. -
Hi, I'm currently building my first AR-15. It is my first gun build and first AR-15. I finished building the lower receiver this last week and I'm getting ready to move on to the upper half. Now I'm trying to build a very lightweight rifle and currently I'm looking at either a 14.5" or 14.7" (which ever I can find at the time) Mid-Length barrel. The hand guard I'm going with is the Magpul mid-length. The type of gas block that I want to use is one with a rail so I can put a folding front sight on it. Is there any specific type of gas block size, or manufacture that makes one just for that hand guard? Or can I use any gas block with a rail and be fine?
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How's it going guys, Took my rifle out yesterday and shot a little under 100 rounds. Was busy the rest of the day offroading in the mountains so put off my rifle cleaning til today. I usually get home from the range and clean my firearms asap, but this time I put it off a day, took it out after work today, sprayed some bright bore down the barrel to lube it up for the patch, stuck a patch through my plastic patch jag that screws into my cleaning rod, soaked it in hoppes 9, and began to stick the patch down the bore, it got through the bore guide, and stopped around 2 inches down the bore and wouldn't budge at all, so I backed it out, tried it again with a new patch, same thing, finally the plastic jag broke on the 3rd try and lucky for me I was able to pick it out with my fingers.. What could of been the problem? I've used this setup plenty of times, used these patches plenty of times, could it have been my barrel was cold? Maybe there was alot of copper fouling that wouldn't allow the patch to go through? They are cloth patches by the way not the paper towel fabric patches, any input is highly appreciated.. Thank you
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Thank you to all the answers I really appreciate it I recently purchased a new bushmaster predator, unlined 1:8 chromoly barrel, right out of the box I took it home and gave it a good cleaning, the only thing was instead of using a Bore rod because I was worried of scratching the unlined barrel, I let the bore soak in bright bore and took a bore snake through it around 8 times, I then took it to the range and did the 1 shot, and ran the bore snake through it 3 times after, did that only a few times, then did 5 shots and another few bore snake swipes and took it home. I wasn't going to do the break in process because my brother said it was bs, but I spent quite a bit and wanted to do it right, rather be safe than sorry, anyway I read later that the bore snake isn't a proper way to clean a bore out and that it needs to be scrubbed, then I read you "need" to "properly" break in an unlined barrel or its accuracy won't be like it was meant to be, was just looking to get some answers on if I did anything wrong with the break in, I like accuracy and hope I didn't mess anything up. Again, thanks to anyone who answers, take care
