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Mulie

S&W 1066

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Hi Guys,

I am excited to report that I just purchased a used 1066 today. I will have to wait the mandatory 10 days before I pick it up.

 

While inspecting it, I noticed a little click in the trigger during the free travel, about half way or so to the point of engaging the sear and dropping the hammer on single action. This happens with or without the magazine in place and does not occur when functioning the trigger in double action mode. I was wondering, is this normal? I suspect it is not, therefore I need to find a good S&W gen 3 gunsmith to take care of that little issue with the trigger, if I can't resolve it myself.

 

Here in California, the only way we can purchase any of the older guns is via a private party transfer. We can not import any hand gun into the state that is not on the approved list. To get on a handgun on the list, the manufacture has to submit three samples for drop testing and pay a significant fee. Because of this situation, the 10MM S&W's are hard to come by.

 

It is frustrating that I can't take it apart and see if I can figure out what is going on. But I won't be able to do that for at least 10 days. It will be that long before I can pick it up from the FFL. I am sure that the trigger will be the same in ten days, but I am excited and impatient!

 

Any suggestions on what may be causing the trigger issue and and recommendations on a good gunsmith would be appreciated.

Edited by Mulie

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Hi Guys,

I am excited to report that I just purchased a used 1066 today. I will have to wait the mandatory 10 days before I pick it up.

 

While inspecting it, I noticed a little click in the trigger during the free travel, about half way or so to the point of engaging the sear and dropping the hammer on single action. This happens with or without the magazine in place and does not occur when functioning the trigger in double action mode. I was wondering, is this normal? I suspect it is not, therefore I need to find a good S&W gen 3 gunsmith to take care of that little issue with the trigger, if I can't resolve it myself.

 

Here in California, the only way we can purchase any of the older guns is via a private party transfer. We can not import any hand gun into the state that is not on the approved list. To get on a handgun on the list, the manufacture has to submit three samples for drop testing and pay a significant fee. Because of this situation, the 10MM S&W's are hard to come by.

 

It is frustrating that I can't take it apart and see if I can figure out what is going on. But I won't be able to do that for at least 10 days. It will be that long before I can pick it up from the FFL. I am sure that the trigger will be the same in ten days, but I am excited and impatient!

 

Any suggestions on what may be causing the trigger issue and and recommendations on a good gunsmith would be appreciated.

 

I have the same gun with the same issue. Did you find a solution? I did contact a smith that used to work on my duty gun which was a S&W 4567 (same frame size, 45acp) and he tells me 6 months. Really don't want to wait that long if I don't have to.

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No ideas on the trigger. Congrats on the gun though. Those 10XX guns are tanks!

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I had tried to answer earlier but the computer locked up!

 

Clicking noise...Trigger play spring is either not in the right position bent or broken. This is a tiny spring steel piece rivited to the trigger draw bar.

 

3rdGenSWtrigger.jpg

 

Disassembly of frame...

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEY0C5KTh_8...feature=related

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A little follow up on my clicking trigger.

First of all, Thanks to The Shadow for the info on this problem. He is exactly right on the cause of the clicking.

 

We were traveling during the holidays and I didn't get back to this post till today, I had figured this out before I got back to read his post and to watch the video.

 

In my research on the problem, I ran across a wonderful break down on the 3rd gen S&W pistols at the following link. This is what gave the confidence to take my pistol completely apart and slightly bend the trigger slack spring so as to have a bit more tension. It didn't take much, just a little tweaking with a pair of needle nose pliers. There are a lot of pieces to these 3rd gen S&W pistols, but if you take your time and watch the video that The Shadow posted and reference the pics in the break down in the following post, they are not all that difficult do deal with. YMMV depending on your patience and mechanical aptitude.

 

http://www.smithandwessonforums.com/forum/...eup-w-pics.html

 

With the slide off the pistol you can see inside the frame and watch the trigger draw bar and sear working. In my case, I could see the trigger draw bar snapping into place as I slowly pulled the trigger. By adding more tension to the spring, it causes the trigger draw bar to stay in the notch and when the trigger is pulled, there is no clicking.

 

My pistol is performing perfectly now and I am very happy with it. :thumb:

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Mulie, Your welcome and very glad you were able to help yourself in understanding how these pistols work and making your repair. Its because of people who have had the issues and documented it in words and pictures that has help me to understand more also! So many thanks to those who did post this for others to do the same! :thumb:

 

Stay safe!

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Another way to purchase a handgun that is not on the CA Handgun Roster is to go through a process called the Single-Shot Exemption.

 

Basically, what it is, you have an FFL 07 convert the handgun to single-shot, then you can purchase it. Once you purchase it and take delivery of the handgun, whatever modifications you do it is on your own.

 

There is a sticky on the Calguns.net handguns subforum with all the details, including which shops do it.

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