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Delphin25

More beginner questions? breakin, Lube, oil, 5.56 , bayonet

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Hello,

 

Just had some more questions.

 

I sprayed remoil on outside of my dry looking barrel is this OK? It seems to keep absorbing it. Will this burn off when I go to the range? Can I rub it down, like polishing the surface of the coating with a rag?

 

What should I use on the bolt carrier and inside the upper, lithium grease? I was just using break free CLP before. I have stainless lube for my 1911 and some other slide type lube for my 10/22? This is steel against aluminum right?

Research: I'll stick with CLP and try a little of my frog lube on the carrier and upper. (SEAL fan)

 

I have 2 new mags from magpul should I spray the inside with a little remoil too?

 

My barrel says 5.56 NATO so I can use 5.56 or .223 is the 5.56 actually going to be more accurate? Will the 5.56 be more reliable with the carbine configuration? ie no misfeeds, jams etc. I'll try them both out during the break in period.

 

How do I do break in this new build, 200-250 rounds. Should I wait to rapid fire? Shoot 100 then clean?

OK found the threads, just shoot until you cant stop smiling then clean and shoot some more.

 

The manual says effective rate of fire 45 in one min? does that mean I shouldn't fire as fast as I can? I wanted to try that. only time I had a misfeed before was in the desert rapid fire with old mil surplus mag (no longer in my possession). I cant hit anything at rate less than 1 sec but thought Id test it to ensure reliability and its fun.

 

I can shoot with a bayonet attached safely right? Just wanted to try this, since I think I can safely and legally. Only consequence is my shinny new ('72) bayonet might get dirty.

 

Enough questions for now? LOL Thanks. I'll keep searching and reading too.

 

Don?

Edited by Delphin25

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Hello,

 

Just had some more questions.

 

I sprayed remoil on outside of my dry looking barrel is this OK? It seems to keep absorbing it. Will this burn off when I go to the range? Can I rub it down, like polishing the surface of the coating with a rag?

Remoil is fine. Parkerized barrels will soak up some oil - that's what it is meant to do. Some will burn off when you shoot.

 

What should I use on the bolt carrier and inside the upper, lithium grease? I was just using break free CLP before. I have stainless lube for my 1911 and some other slide type lube for my 10/22? This is steel against aluminum right?

Research: I'll stick with CLP and try a little of my frog lube on the carrier and upper. (SEAL fan)

Sounds like you got it right.

 

I have 2 new mags from magpul should I spray the inside with a little remoil too?

Don't lube your pmags. Just run them as they came.

 

My barrel says 5.56 NATO so I can use 5.56 or .223 is the 5.56 actually going to be more accurate? Will the 5.56 be more reliable with the carbine configuration? ie no misfeeds, jams etc. I'll try them both out during the break in period.

Your gun will run either just fine. If you run into problems, check back in with a full description of the problem.

 

How do I do break in this new build, 200-250 rounds. <snip>just shoot until you cant stop smiling then clean and shoot some more.

That's the way I do it.

 

The manual says effective rate of fire 45 in one min? does that mean I shouldn't fire as fast as I can? I wanted to try that. only time I had a misfeed before was in the desert rapid fire with old mil surplus mag (no longer in my possession). I cant hit anything at rate less than 1 sec but thought Id test it to ensure reliability and its fun.

Have fun with it! If you sustain that rate of fire over a dozen mags, then you probably will run into issues.

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Welcome!

 

The lubrication question has been asked many times, and there are thousands of answers that have been given. I personally prefer Mobil 1 motor oil, as it doesn't cook off like most gun oils. In reality, if you are willing to re-lube after going shooting, any quality oil will work. I personally don't suggest grease, as it holds grit and grime worse, and can start to gum up in cold weather. Might not be a challenge in sunny California, but up here, I have to deal with it.

 

Shoot .223 or 5.56, and do so in good health. Both will be just fine, and you'll likely never see any difference in the accuracy between the two.

 

If you have a chrome-lined bore, don't bother with any break-in. Just shoot it. Properly breaking in a barrel designed for top accuracy *may* help. Jury is still out on that, there are guys who swear by a specific regimen, there are guys who just shoot the hell out of it and enjoy it.

 

If you do mag dump after mag dump without any time to allow the barrel to cool, you will eventually ruin the barrel. It will take quite a bit to do damage. Most shooters won't want to waste that kind of money in ammo.

 

As far as the bayonet, unless you have a 20" barrel, or a 14.5" barrel, you're not going to mount a bayonet properly. If you do have the proper length barrel and get it mounted, you can shoot it all you want. Accuracy will be way off, but they were designed to be used that way.

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Biggest thing is keep her lubed. Mobile 1 works really well. I use Slip 2000. Just keep it wet. if it looks to wet, it isn't.

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Welcome!

 

The lubrication question has been asked many times, and there are thousands of answers that have been given. I personally prefer Mobil 1 motor oil, as it doesn't cook off like most gun oils. In reality, if you are willing to re-lube after going shooting, any quality oil will work. I personally don't suggest grease, as it holds grit and grime worse, and can start to gum up in cold weather. Might not be a challenge in sunny California, but up here, I have to deal with it.

 

Where do you want to put the oil on. I just want to make sure i'm getting all the correct spots.

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everything you did is fine yes the rem oil will burn off a little

 

as far as ammo this thread will answer every single question you will EVER have

http://ammo.ar15.com/

 

personally I use the Mpro 7 line of lubes and solvents it is great stuff but expensive and everyone has there own opinions

 

I was taught that if a component looks wet you over oiled it petroleum based lubes(almost every gun oil) leave a film of lubrication that the parts slide on top of.

your Pmags represent this pretty well the inside surface is not wet but it is slightly shiny and slick that is because they are built of a self lubricating polymer you should not have to oil them however do take them apart every couple range trips to clear out any dust dirt and unburnt powder residue that builds up

 

one last thing on oiling oil attracts dirt dust and carbon which leads to failures if you over oil the only thing you are doing is adding more for dust to cling to

of course this should never be recommended for a personal rifle but some military personnel in the big sandbox do not oil their rifles for that exact reason

 

as far as break in its also very opinion based I didn't follow any specific procedures but it is a good idea to follow the manual for warranty purposes

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Where do you want to put the oil on. I just want to make sure i'm getting all the correct spots.

I liberally coat the locking lugs, wipe down the front of the bolt, the exterior of the carrier, and any part that shows shiny spots of wear. One or two drops in the FCG on the bearing surfaces, you're good to go. If the gun is going to be kept in a damp environment (this is Oregon, almost everything is damp 6 months out of the year) I wipe the exterior with an oily rag, just enough to put it in the pores of the metal.

 

If you live in a very dusty environment, you can probably skip the external oiling, and get by with minimal oil. But then again, if you live in a very dusty area, you're probably cleaning your gun much more frequently than I do.

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Sounds like the oil you have is fine. I've used CLP, Slip 2000 and now am trying out Frog Lube. All worked well when kept clean and well oiled.

 

If it says 5.56 you can shoot both 5.56 AND .223 but NOT the other way around.

 

No need to spray the P-mags. Leave them be as is.

 

Break in??? That is a hotly debated subject. My take is to shoot it as you normally would unless you've got some kind of super duper match grade SS barrel.

Clean from the chamber toward the end of the barrel (breech to muzzle). This way you preserve the crown, and do not drag dirt/debris back into the barrel.

 

Rate of fire:

Fire as fast as you want. Chances are you'll run out of ammo or funds before you do any damage to the rifle lol...

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Dont use steel cased bullets in ur delton. I hear delton doesn't support people using that kind of ammo.

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