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Demitrios

Need help with ideas to build a 10mm compact 1911.

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I've been wanting to a compact 10mm for carry on the 1911 platform but so far everything I've read has said the same thing, timing problems and cracked slides/frames. (Yes I know Dan Wesson made a 10mm CCO but they're damn near impossible to find and way too expensive if you did).

 

So I kept thinking about it and wondered why is that Glock was able to pull this off. After a bit it came to me, polymer frames are what make them have a lot easier time handling the pressure and recoil from a 10mm.

 

I know of a few companies that make poly-framed 1911's, STI, SVI, Bul to name a couple. Does anyone know of any that make them compact?

 

If I could find a compact double stacked polymer 1911 frame which barrel should I use? Would I have to reem out a compact .40 S&W barrel? Would a linkless system be better? What type and how heavy should my recoil spring and guide rod be? Can the frame be bobbed (is it even worth it)? What kind of mags could I get and if I can't which ones can be modified?

 

If anyone would like to chip in and help on this one I'd love to have ideas bounced off this.

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If I were serious about a compact 10mm, I would start here. The STI VIP is a nice little gun. Buy one in 40 S&W, send the top end to Steve at Mars Armament and he will ream it for you.

 

I would change out the firing pin stop for an EGW flat bottom and the hammer spring for a 25 lb Wolff. Then see how she runs.

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I built this over a year ago and posted about it, it now has over 10k rounds through it, all full power loads and still going strong. I still have not sent it off to get blued. I am eventually going to send it fords and get it blued. It is built with a caspian frame and 3.5 inch officers slide, with a schuemann ramped barrel. I am going to take it to work one of these days and magnaflux the frame again to see how it is holding up, it doesn't show any signs of abnormal wear. I am using a full length recoil guide and reverse plug.

 

10mm1.JPG

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Edited by wile326

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That is a sweet looking compact 10.

 

You mention needed to get it blued...Is it still in the white? what are you doing to protect the steel from perspiration. Even some of my blued guns don't like spending a day in a holster next to my skin in the summer.

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That is a sweet looking compact 10.

 

I have to agree, very nice! I am considering a 1911 in the future! :thumb:

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I wonder if Bob Serva at Fusion can help. Those are tougher than all get out. I have one in full-size that I would run into a burning building to retrieve.

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Yes it is still in the white for now, I am going to send it off to Fords to have it royal blued. I have a set of Ivory grips for it and will add them after it is blued. I use gunzila on it. I take it to the range about 2 times a month and take it to the hunting lease often. In the field I carry it in an uncle mikes holster so it is protected some. I don't carry it on a daily basis yet. I want to see how it is going to hold up before I start carrying it,( use my delta elite for carry). I keep an accurate round count and am going to magnaflex the slide and frame for signs of cracking. I did this once at 5k rounds and So far it has held up great, no signs of cracking. I always use 24# wolf recoil springs, changing them out every 500rnds and a 23#lb hammer spring, with a well fit EGW firing pin stop. Brass is thrown about 10 to 12 feet. The only changes I have made are, after 1k rounds, I changed out the sear, disconnector, hammer strut and the pins. I had originally used a fusion trigger group and really did not like it all, the hammer strut was soft and actually bent causing play in the hammer. I changed them out with colt parts and did a trigger job, and now have a 3.5lb trigger pull that has not changed after 9k rounds. A lot of people have had trouble with the pin on the Ellison sight working out on, I have not had this problem.It wasn't any more difficult to build then a 45 officers, I just really took my time and went one step at a time. It is my favorite pistol.

Edited by wile326

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