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srouse2822

SW 1076 Trigger Question

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Hello all, please forgive me I am pretty new to the site and to 10mm. I recently bought a SW 1076, it is a bit beat up in regards to the finish but the internals and barrel look good. I did have a question. I notice when the pistol is in single action and I bring up the slack there is a noticeable click as I take up the slack. It a small click that I can feel is as I take up the slack.

 

This is not the reset of the trigger, as I can feel that as well. Its when I fire double action and let the trigger go all the was forward. (Not just a bit to reset the trigger) I feel a slight click or catch in the trigger. I want to know what you all may think it is.

 

ANy help would be great.

 

THANKS

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What you are hearing is the trigger play spring...it can be worn or cracked or broken. It rivits to the front of the trigger bar...

INFO:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/...lay-spring.html

 

Video 3 parts to help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INt0MFqBO8U

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endsc...p;v=IEY0C5KTh_8

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feat...p;v=Vx7g2l4Eiqw

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I see I think that is what it is.

 

First: Can the pistol still be used with this issue

Second: Where can I get this fixed.

 

I think I may have been taken advantaged of when I bought this pistol, as it also has Trigicom sights that really do not fit the dove tail. It slides in BUT the back part of the sight does not fit into the dove tail so the sight...I guess angles down a bit.

 

PLEASE HELP...I feel stupid as I dont know what I am talking about.

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You could get it looked over and fixed at S&W and then it would be done correctly.

 

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/sto...14_757812_image

 

User manual

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWes...ol_06_16_08.pdf

 

Parts listings and sales Numrich Gun Parts

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Produc...spx?catid=13014

 

Part 78 spring and 79 rivet

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Shadow,

 

Thanks so much. I put in for a warranty repair. I hope they can fix it. I have alwasy wanted a 1076 now that I got one and it was not in the best shape I hope Smith can fix it for not a lot of money.

 

Again thanks so much

:)

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Shadow,

 

WOW I just looked over all your links you gave me an encyclopedia of information. I am very happy that you could help me out. I just hope Smith can help me put it right. I want to SHOOT soon.

 

Regards

Scott

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My pleasure to help! Good luck getting this sorted out! :thumb:

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I would also add that much of the exterior beating on a stainless gun like that can be buffed out. Just pick a wet sandpaper grit that will give a finish you like or similar to the factory finish, and buff away. My Para Ordnance looked like a sows ear, but with some elbow grease it looks very nice now.

 

That 1076 is a great gun. Congratulations!

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I would also add that much of the exterior beating on a stainless gun like that can be buffed out. Just pick a wet sandpaper grit that will give a finish you like or similar to the factory finish, and buff away. My Para Ordnance looked like a sows ear, but with some elbow grease it looks very nice now.

 

That 1076 is a great gun. Congratulations!

Can you give me some more information on that? Not to sure what you mean...Do you mean to sand the guns finish itself? Just a bit more info would be great on how to do this.

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I used 400 and 600 grit wet sand paper. Most of my blemishes were on the slide, so I field stripped the gun, wet the sand paper and then sanded out the blemish marks. When that was complete, I sanded the entire slide flats to a uniform looking texture and called it good. I will try to get some pictures posted tonight of before and after. My gun is blemished up a little again from installing a high ride grip safety I received for christmas. I have roughed it in with a file, and then smoothed it up some with emory cloth, but still need to remove a few file marks and then move back up to 600 grit for a uniform appearance.

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I have used stainless steel brush to clean some areas like the textured grooves. However I think baking soda (moist & hand pushed into the surface for small areas) blasting would be better and wouldn't leave it shiny scratched polished look like sandpaper or scotchbrite. You would need to do a good cleaning afterwards to remove the baking soda from all areas.

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I will have to try the baking soda approach. Once my second garage is done and I have some space I am going to invest in a sand blasting cabinet, a park tank and a cure oven. That will open up a world of finishes for a variety of different material types.

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Hello again,

 

So if I understand you correctly, if I use sand paper etc it will leave the finish shiny. IF I sandblast it will give it the dull color? I do not want the pistol to be shiny I want a matte finish.

 

Also I sent for a mail recept so I can send the pistol to Smith, I will let you know what happens. I hope the trigger play spring wont be expensive to replace.

 

THanks guys

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Depends on how course the sandpaper is. More course, less shiny, more brushed looking.

 

The most relevant point is that stainless is just metal, no surface finishing like carbon steel which is blued, parkerized or coated. Therefore, you can repair a blemish much more easily.

Edited by sqlbullet

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BOY OH BOY Smith and Wesson Service Rocks........

 

All of you were right the clicking was just a trigger play spring. Its funny that it was just something as small as that. They are also updating all the springs etc free of charge.....WOW.

 

I should get it back any day now and I will then shoot this bad boy. 200 rounds of Remington UMC are ready....(Of course not all at once just start with a box of 50 :)

 

Thanks to all on the forum.

Scott

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