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Aahhyes68

.223/5.56 NATO VS. .223 Wylde ??

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.223/5.56 NATO VS. .223 Wylde ??

 

I am looking for a very clear and accurate explanation on the differences regarding these two chambers.

 

Anyone have a really good link or can spell it out so even I can understand :smile:

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Here's my short explanation. A .223 (not 5.56) chamber is for standard non-military loads, like most of what you find in a "traditional" gun store. The chamber and throat are very tight and usually are more accurate. DO NOT USE 5.56mm Ammo in a .223 chambered gun.

 

A 5.56 chambered weapon is for combat use as a 5.56 load is hotter than .223 loads. A 5.56mm chamber is not as tight as a .223 and will take the brass expansion and higher power load of a 5.56mm round. They are generally less accurate than a .223 chambered gun.

 

A .223 Wylde is a hybrid of the .223 and 5.56 chamber. It has a slightly larger chamber and throat than .223 but not quite as open as a 5.56 one. .223 Wylde (IIRC) was made to shoot hotter loads in match grade guns. You can use either .223 or 5.56mm ammo in a .223 Wylde. A .223 Wydle is generally as accurate as a .223 chambered gun and more accurate than a 5.56 chambered weapon.

 

 

TS

 

 

* I believe all of this is correct. If someone finds an error, feel free to correct it.

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The upper on my first build is a .223 wylde chamber. It runs perfectly.....

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Since the difference between 5.56 and .223 is so small some people may consider .223 and 5.56mm the same, what assures that when a manufacturer labels their rifles as 5.56mm that it isn't actually a .223 with a tighter chamber and throat or vise versa?

Or even ammo being labeled as .223 when it may be 5.56?

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The reason I ask is I'm looking to pick up either an 18" or 20" Varmint complete upper and some Mfrs. list .223/5.56 and some .223 Wylde.

 

So it is safe for me to assume that :

 

.223/5.56 = .223 Wylde in regards to an upper for an AR.

 

It seems like the only place for a true .223 Remington would be in a bolt rifle ?

Edited by Aahhyes68

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Aahhyes68,

 

I won't own a .223 barrel as I've seen too many people get a 5.56 round stuck. It doesn't happen often, but I'll bet I've seen it at least 5 or 6 times.

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My 20" Varmint is a RRA wylde chambered AR. Most of the varmint barrels will be Wylde. It has functioned just fine with M193 when I was breaking it in. However, I'm not going to run anything more than a few mags of reloads through it without cleaning since it's a target gun. I'd stick with the 5.56 if it is a your SHTF, drop in the mud, must function weapon.

 

I have noticed that my brass grows less in length when fired in my .223 Wylde vs 5.56 Stag Arms barrel. Anyone else observed this?

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I have noticed that my brass grows less in length when fired in my .223 Wylde vs 5.56 Stag Arms barrel. Anyone else observed this?

 

I don't own a Wylde chambered weapon, but the smaller chamber and throat of the Wylde vs a looser 5.56 chambered one would make that perfectly logical.

 

 

TS

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The reason I ask is I'm looking to pick up either an 18" or 20" Varmint complete upper and some Mfrs. list .223/5.56 and some .223 Wylde.

 

So it is safe for me to assume that :

 

.223/5.56 = .223 Wylde in regards to an upper for an AR.

 

More or less, but 5.56 will take a little hotter load than a .223 Wylde.

 

It seems like the only place for a true .223 Remington would be in a bolt rifle ?

 

There are custom AR's that have custom .223 Remington barrels. I think Oly still makes a .223 AR, but I'm not 100% on that.

 

 

TS

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...

There are custom AR's that have custom .223 Remington barrels. I think Oly still makes a .223 AR, but I'm not 100% on that.

TS

I believe that all the DPMS stainless barrels are .223.

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DPMS definitely marks some of their rifles as .223 and others as 5.56. With the current abundance of .223 ammo, just go with that if there's a question. That and I've never seen 5.56 reload data ;D

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What is it we are so concerned about when we talk about the different sizes of cartridges and chambers? Is it that the actual pressure will cause the chamber-throat area to fail, or that the pressure will cause the brass to run, then when combined with the heat of the gas, cut the barrel, like a shape charge?

When I worked for a valve company a while back we had to pressure test everything that came through the shop. Everything was tested at at least two-and-a-half times its rating. If this is the same with barrels, then we don't have anything to worry about as far as out 'n out pressure is concerned. Then the only other thing to worry about is the brass running. That problem is solved with steel cases.

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