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The Hobbit

Anyone else climb in the Wichita Mountains?

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Just wondering if I might know any of you guys from rock climbing in the tas.

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Im a climber hobbit. Which area are you speaking of? I grew up climbing in arkansas, and have spent time climbing in west virginia and kentucky. The red, the new. In arkansas it was mount magazine, horseshoe canyon ranch, newton county, same throne, etc.

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Oh your in oklahoma. We did some climbing there. For a time we were working on cell phone towers there and would go climbing, well, bouldering there. It was kinda scrabbly. Not the best if your spoiled like us. People from oklahoma come to climb in arkansas a lot.

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There's no bouldering in Oklahoma to speak of. There's some stuff outside Tulsa that's pretty good if you're local, but it's nothing to write home about. You'd have to be pretty desperate to boulder in SW OK. But the trad cragging there is the best. I've climbed around AR many times. Sometimes it's just nice to leave the cams at home and chill out on some sandstone.

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You guys have some rope climbing there? Ive never heard of it. Which areas in arkansas have you been to? Any memorable routes? Do you do multi pitch? I guess if your talking about leaving the cams at home then you may like sport climbing. I mostly sport climb unless its multi pitch or big wall.

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You guys have some rope climbing there? Ive never heard of it. Which areas in arkansas have you been to? Any memorable routes? Do you do multi pitch? I guess if your talking about leaving the cams at home then you may like sport climbing. I mostly sport climb unless its multi pitch or big wall.

 

I'm not a big fan of sport climbing, but it's okay from time to time. I've been to Horseshoe and Fern.

 

Yea, man, there's roped climbing all over the Wichitas. It's 99% trad, mostly single pitch. There's a few sport routes, but they're sketchy as all getout. They don't allow rap bolting or drills, so everything was bolted by hand on lead. You're looking at a bolt every twenty feet, tops. Most everything is at least an R, and many Xs. Not my cup of tea, so I stick to the trad routes.

 

There are a few multipitch climbs, but I've only done one. The others are pretty low quality. I've done some good multipitch in Colorado though.

 

As far as areas to check out, there are two main places. The Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge is the main spot. Check out the Narrows (good stuff on Zoo Wall), upper and lower walls on Mt. Scott are both fantastic, and Echo Dome in Cheron's Garden. Crab Eyes and Lost Dome are good but very hard routes there. I would suggest scrambling to the top of Crab Eyes though just for the view. It's an amazing formation.

 

The second area is called Quartz Mountain State Park. They have more sport climbing, but again, lots of R and X rated stuff. But it's a lot of good quality routes in a very confined space. Not far from Quartz, there's an area called Twin Peaks. It's decent, but it takes forever to get there and I'm not sure about the current access issues. I used to know a guy who had permission to climb there, but that was almost ten years ago. Stick to the parks; they're great. Just watch out for rattlers, no joke. Those bastiages are everywhere.

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