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NewARBuilder87

Please advise, problem with barrel nut removal

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So if y'all ran your eyes over my 1st post here, What got me in to the AR, you know I'm only 6 months in to the wonderful world of the AR platform, but me being me, decided to jump in head-first by building my first AR. Probably did 2 months of reading up before I ordering a single part, but fast forward to now, I'm at the end of the build part, just need to swap barrels from the one that came with the upper to the one I bought for the build, problem is, I can't for the life of me get the d@$* barrel nut off, and I'm running out of ideas. The upper was bought very slightly used from a gentlemen who got it from a Dallas gun show, so he didn't know too much about it. What sucks is I NEED the barrel nut I'm trying to remove, since I don't know the make or manufacturer of the rail, cutting it is not on my list, as I wouldn't know where to find an exact replacement to hold the handguard. My upper is currently being held in upper blocks in my vice, with me running out of options, if anyone knows any tricks, I would be forever grateful for you sharing your knowledge. I'll attach a pic of the barrel nut. Also, if you're around the San Antonio area and think its within your ability, the 16" barrel you remove, you can have, along with the A2 flash hider, gas block, and gas tube if you want it for the assistance, e-mail at luckysowa23@gmail.com, thanks ahead of time to everyone87d045cd0f548a9eb0a0d22a88ecfb0a.jpg

 

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I have an 18" Cresent wrench that would grab right onto that on those flats....but I'm no where near you.

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Take a stab in the dark and say that looks like it may be a 1 3/16 Inch crescent wrench across the flats. Or the large adjustable crescent wrench might be your ticket as said above. The flats being the rectangular cutouts in the middle.

Edited by gshayd

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Well, I'll be driving through San Antonio later today. However, I don't think momma is gonna let me stop to help a buddy out on her weekend. We are heading to Corpus. Can you measure the flats to see what size it is? Maybe you can go down to one of the parts stores and rent a wrench?

 

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Your post implies you have made removal attempts. What have you done to include tools used?

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I don't think he has made any attempts yet.

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I don't think he has made any attempts yet.

Oh. Do those flat have cut-outs in the middle or am I not viewing this well?

 

Just thought he had. "...... I can't for the life of me get the d@$* barrel nut off, and I'm running out of ideas."

Edited by bamashooter

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You could try a little heat. if your not comfortable with that, or think your going to chew it up, I would take it to a gun smith, around my area if you offered the old parts they would probably do it for free and put the new barrel on for you.

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Most crescent wrenchs are to wide on the jaws. For those type of nuts i have a wrench i milled down to fit. Either way i am with derk on the heat. Just heat it up take a ball peen and tap the wrench till she pops loose.

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You could try a little heat. if your not comfortable with that, or think your going to chew it up, I would take it to a gun smith, around my area if you offered the old parts they would probably do it for free and put the new barrel on for you.

 

Even if he wanted a reasonable fee instead of unknown parts, it might well be worth the price since you need that barrel nut removed unmolested.

There is an outside chance he might be able to identify the maker of the rail, if he specializes in AR's.

If you have your trigger group installed, you could also bring your lower in, and I bet he would look at that for no additional fee.

Just have him name his price before you ask him about your lower. :segrin: However, the price charged may depend on how long it takes him...

 

This is not a commentary on your build skills, I have never built a rifle. It's just how my mind works...if he is willing to take a look at FCG while you are there,

why not ?

 

Welcome to the board, and good luck !

 

John

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First off, let me start by apologizing for not responding sooner, work has been crazy, and I'm not GLUED to my phone, much... But thank you all for your tips and responses, all invaluable info. The good news is, I GOT IT!!! It only took a 12in crescent wrench and a 7ft improvised breaker bar, upper blocks and vice of course with probably 4-6 days of constant lubricating. From there, it was relatively easy, minus the rail, having to line up the barrel nut just right took some time, but managed to get that too. I'll attach photos, LMK what y'all think, I love comments, but also don't mind criticism, I'm new so I welcome EVERYONE'S opinion, good or bad. Thank y'all again for the advice, I'm sure I'll see y'all around the forums, I'm here to stay!!!

 

 

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Edited by NewARBuilder87

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Congratulations on your success. I sure would-like to know who made that nut/HG.

 

Out of curiosity was there any kind of sealant etc. inside the nut/threads?

 

Greg

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Sorry took me forever to respond, but no, I don't think so. I didn't see any sign of any kind of threadlocker, it must've just been torqued to high he//. As for manufacturer, no clue, I got the upper whole form someone who bought the upper whole from a gun show in Dallas, he did say it was an actual gun shop, my guess the rail they had manufactured for them. Oddly enough, the barrel nut on my 2nd build I'll post about later, was practically identical. If I'm 2 for 2, I'm amazed everyone who sees a pic of the barrel nut is just like, "What?"

 

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That style of nut isnt all that unusual, you see it in some variation on many hand guards, Basically flats in the middle with tapped holes for attaching the hand guard. This nut looks like its aluminum and probly didnt have any anti seize on it during install. Aluminum threads will gall at times under heavy torque and the anti seize will help prevent thread lock up. I use just enough to coat the first three or so threads and when you tighten it up, it will spread the compound farther along. I also burnish the threads by tightening to spec and loosening about 3 times. I may never take the nut off again but if I do, it should come off easily.

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Congratulations !

 

Looking forward to a range report.

 

 

BTW: I decided to mention that in a couple of photos, the flash hider do not appear to be straight.

I am thinking it's a trick of the eye as the camera catches the reflections off the prongs of the flash hider.

I figured it would be better to say something so you could double check, rather than not saying anything

and have the (remote) possibility of a bullet striking a prong.

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It's on straight, the have a slight twist to them, probably causing it to look off. Thank you for looking out, after all safety is the most important thing to keep in mind.

 

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