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towtruck

Colt Cobra and King Cobra ejector rod fix

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I have this posted in another thread but thought it deserved it's own spot here. The knurling on the new Colts Cobra and King Cobra are a really bad design. Not only do they allow the rod to stick in the crane they are sharp and the end of the rod is not pleasant to operate as it's so skinny. I was able to file a little off the bottom row of knurls to stop it from sticking down but I wanted a better tip on that rod. 

 

Here is the original design...

gM3T0Wm.jpg

 

And here is my fix. I used a .204 Speer TNT flat based bullet and cut the bottom off. I used a torch to melt the lead out of the jacket and then filed the end smooth. I tapped the jacket over the rod and filed the end down to match the radius in the under lug groove. Once it fit right I pulled it off and used some RTV on the knurls and tapped the jacket back on. A little filing, some 1500 grit sand paper and some 00 steel wool to polish it and it's done. Very smooth to punch now and eject cases. It almost matches the brass bead front sight in appearance but I want it to patina out dark and hope with use and oils from my fingers it gets dark naturally. Nothing is permanent and with a little force it pops off and can be cleaned up like it was never there.  

 

GZgUZhQ.jpgAtr0zlm.jpg4vRDl9k.jpg

 

Colt...if your following all this you have some work to do on these guns....how about an ejector rod that looks more like the one you made for the Python?

 

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Nice. but it's a shamed you had to do all that work. to fix a new gun.

 

I've use Birchwood Case Brass Black Metal Finish on the brass sight on my flintlock and it did what I wanted. Cut down the glare nicely. Not sure if this is the look you're after or not.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Brass-Finish-3-Ounce/dp/B0000C514O

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That's what I want. I tried to darken it with Baking soda and water last night but it did noting to it. 

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Sucks you had to modify it being new.  I'm waiting for all of the bugs to get worked out of the Python.  Then save up some $$ so I can own one.

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1 hour ago, newbe said:

Sucks you had to modify it being new.  I'm waiting for all of the bugs to get worked out of the Python.  Then save up some $$ so I can own one.

I'm holding back right now :laugh:  If the new grips work out and I can get that side plate to stay tight I will be tearing this thing down and working on more areas. I have been tinkering with the cylinder release and have it about resolved...much smoother operation but still has a few burrs under it that you can feel. I will be pulling the hammer out and putting a radius on the back side edges. So many sharp 90* corners on this thing. I may also get after the frame where it hits your trigger finger on recoil....a little smoothing there may be on order if the new grips don't fix that. I wasn't going to work this gun over but it requires some fixing and refining to be made right. I'm going to have to be careful how much I do to it as matching that finish won't happen once I break through it and polish it off where I work on things. So far I have not done anything to the gun that would harm resale....I'm sticking to the plan of making sure the side plate gets secured and the new grips work out...other wise I will make the gun look factory again and sell it off. 

 

I think the Python is a good bet to own....I want to put my hands on one to see if I can find any issues with them myself. 

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Posted (edited)

Na2S4 + 2 RX → 2 NaX + R2S4  :segrin: Sodium Polysulfide mixed in de-ionized water with a small amount of elemental sulfur added , mixture works best heated between 140- 275 degrees .

Do it outside in the shop  , sulfur SMELLS  . It's a permanent process used in jewelry making  ,turning copper and  bronze shiny black  ( provided the surface is polished prior to application )  Polysulfides are also used in toner  of photochemical solutions  as well as Taxidermy  to remove hair from hides .

It's an EASY process .

Question was the knurled end of the ejector hanging up in the cradle or simply uncomfortable too press for ejection ?. 

 

 Back in the day  I did a fair amount of metal matching as in parkerizing ; for  WWl WWll and Korean era firearms .

As I had experimented with several solutions and got pretty good at it . I had the good  fortune of actually getting  #3 copies of the original formulas used  during WWl , the  interim period and WW ll US service grade formula from , the Daughter of the Man who perfected it for our Armed services .  I was doing some research work and tracked her down , she gave Me her Fathers and Brothers Notes along with a long time Company employee ,  whom actually  perfected a low temp additional additives formula  which is still used too this day .

Most people weren't aware there were any differences in formulas between WWl and WWll  ,until they Swapped parts !. :tap:

Edited by BushXM15

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Found this on Youtube  the Guy's well  You decide !. But it shows You how EASY this is .

 

 

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1 hour ago, BushXM15 said:

Na2S4 + 2 RX → 2 NaX + R2S4  :segrin: Sodium Polysulfide mixed in de-ionized water with a small amount of elemental sulfur added , mixture works best heated between 140- 275 degrees .

Do it outside in the shop  , sulfur SMELLS  . It's a permanent process used in jewelry making  ,turning copper and  bronze shiny black  ( provided the surface is polished prior to application )  Polysulfides are also used in toner  of photochemical solutions  as well as Taxidermy  to remove hair from hides .

It's an EASY process .

Question was the knurled end of the ejector hanging up in the cradle or simply uncomfortable too press for ejection ?. 

 

 Back in the day  I did a fair amount of metal matching as in parkerizing ; for  WWl WWll and Korean era firearms .

As I had experimented with several solutions and got pretty good at it . I had the good  fortune of actually getting  #3 copies of the original formulas used  during WWl , the  interim period and WW ll US service grade formula from , the Daughter of the Man who perfected it for our Armed services .  I was doing some research work and tracked her down , she gave Me her Fathers and Brothers Notes along with a long time Company employee ,  whom actually  perfected a low temp additional additives formula  which is still used too this day .

Most people weren't aware there were any differences in formulas between WWl and WWll  ,until they Swapped parts !. :tap:

It was both sticking in the crane and hurting my hand to press. Killed two birds.....

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 I'm surprised it was sticking  not surprised it smarted while extracting . Knurls are for Nobs or gripping on wrenches aren't they ?. Not extractor rods which 95 % of us push with our thumbs .

I don't ever recall gripping an extractor between thumb and forefinger and pulling , always pushed with My thumb :huh:

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2 minutes ago, BushXM15 said:

 I'm surprised it was sticking  not surprised it smarted while extracting . Knurls are for Nobs or gripping on wrenches aren't they ?. Not extractor rods which 95 % of us push with our thumbs .

I don't ever recall gripping an extractor between thumb and forefinger and pulling , always pushed with My thumb :huh:

You can grate Parmesan with these they are so sharp.......unbelievable Colt let that design fly. 

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I saw this thread recently when I was looking up solutions to my Colt Night Cobra’s ejector rod issues.  I was having the same problem of it getting stuck in the crane.

 

FYI, I contacted Colt and after sending the revolver back to them they failed to fix the problem.  After beating on my chest and complaining to the right people, they offered to send me some new ejector rods with “larger” ends they should fix the problem (for free).  After receiving the new parts, I can confirm it does fix the issue.

 

So if anyone reads this and has an issue with the ejector rod sticking, contact Colt and ask for the new ejector rod with the larger end.


Anyway, I hope this helps anyone who is having problems.  Cheers.

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15 hours ago, Rifleman556 said:

I saw this thread recently when I was looking up solutions to my Colt Night Cobra’s ejector rod issues.  I was having the same problem of it getting stuck in the crane.

 

FYI, I contacted Colt and after sending the revolver back to them they failed to fix the problem.  After beating on my chest and complaining to the right people, they offered to send me some new ejector rods with “larger” ends they should fix the problem (for free).  After receiving the new parts, I can confirm it does fix the issue.

 

So if anyone reads this and has an issue with the ejector rod sticking, contact Colt and ask for the new ejector rod with the larger end.


Anyway, I hope this helps anyone who is having problems.  Cheers.

Thank you and welcome to the forum!

 

Are the new rods still knurled heavy ?....pics would be cool

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Posted (edited)
On 8/20/2020 at 7:04 AM, towtruck said:

Thank you and welcome to the forum!

 

Are the new rods still knurled heavy ?....pics would be cool

Honestly the new rods look almost identical to the old ones.  The knurled end is just a hair larger, so that it’s not just the knurling hitting the crane on ejection.

 

I would post an image, but I’m having difficulty doing so.  If I can figure it out, I’ll make sure to post a few.

Edited by Rifleman556
spelling

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Okay, I think I've managed to figure out how to post pics.

S-4685827.jpg

The ejector rod in the pic is actually stainless, not DLC black like my Night Guard.  Colt said they will send me a replacement when they get back from getting DLC coated.

S-4685826.jpg

As you can see, the "knob" with the knurling now has a slight edge on the bottom.  Previously, the knurling was the only thing that contacted the opening of the crane and would sometimes get stuck.  So far, this has fixed the problem for me.  I know some people aren't impressed with the knurling... I agree.  But I carry this gun as a backup and just want the gun to function.  Now it does.

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