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Apple is getting a cab.

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2 hours ago, Pepper said:

As far as a coating, there's something to think about. That big flat roof will get loud. Might not hurt to use undercoating on the inside, and do it yourself bedliner on the outside. That should quiet it down considerably. 

When I do that full cab top I was thinking of doing the "do it yourself" bed liner in white on the top...not only to quiet it down but also make it more durable than paint. My little half cab is going to just use the paint that comes on the skin for now......I may do the liner on it later. I have a pretty good frame work behind the skin on the half cab so my hope is it stays quiet. If not the bed liner trick may get done sooner than later.  

 

This morning I got the frame all ground down and smoothed over then I painted it all white after prepping and cleaning the metal. I painted the door hinges and started stripping the gunk off the A pillar frames. I'm trying to blend in the old finish of the Jeep to the newly painted parts for the top. A little less prep work than if going for a perfect look. 

 

The plan now is to finish up the A pillar brackets then start skinning the cab next. The doors will get done last. I want to get the cab done and installed first then I will tackle each door. 

I have all the weather stripping ordered and once that is here I can get to work on the doors....hopefully the timing will be right for the weather strip to show up right when I'm ready for it. 

 

I have also come up with a plan for the rear quarter panels on the full top. Those will most likely get 90% of the bottom four inches replaced completely. I'm going to pull the glass and strip them down and see what is left...if my hunch is right it will be easier to slice and dice in new material than try and fix what is there. I have the tools to make it happen as my old tow truck was the king at having spliced in panels.....I learned a lot working on that old thing. 

 

I have to dig my Cleco clamps out and find my sheet metal tools now and get ready for skinning. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, towtruck said:

When I do that full cab top I was thinking of doing the "do it yourself" bed liner in white on the top...not only to quiet it down but also make it more durable than paint. My little half cab is going to just use the paint that comes on the skin for now......I may do the liner on it later. I have a pretty good frame work behind the skin on the half cab so my hope is it stays quiet. If not the bed liner trick may get done sooner than later.  

 

This morning I got the frame all ground down and smoothed over then I painted it all white after prepping and cleaning the metal. I painted the door hinges and started stripping the gunk off the A pillar frames. I'm trying to blend in the old finish of the Jeep to the newly painted parts for the top. A little less prep work than if going for a perfect look. 

 

The plan now is to finish up the A pillar brackets then start skinning the cab next. The doors will get done last. I want to get the cab done and installed first then I will tackle each door. 

I have all the weather stripping ordered and once that is here I can get to work on the doors....hopefully the timing will be right for the weather strip to show up right when I'm ready for it. 

 

I have also come up with a plan for the rear quarter panels on the full top. Those will most likely get 90% of the bottom four inches replaced completely. I'm going to pull the glass and strip them down and see what is left...if my hunch is right it will be easier to slice and dice in new material than try and fix what is there. I have the tools to make it happen as my old tow truck was the king at having spliced in panels.....I learned a lot working on that old thing. 

 

I have to dig my Cleco clamps out and find my sheet metal tools now and get ready for skinning. 

 

 

 

TT : Bare metal WASH with Dawn or Lemishine dish soap . After  rough cross hatch abrade it and IF You primer use an epoxy primer prior to  applying the bedliner top coat .

Remember DULL EDGES hold material far better than sharp ones do . :thumb:

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4 hours ago, BushXM15 said:

 

TT : Bare metal WASH with Dawn or Lemishine dish soap . After  rough cross hatch abrade it and IF You primer use an epoxy primer prior to  applying the bedliner top coat .

Remember DULL EDGES hold material far better than sharp ones do . :thumb:

I used muratic acid on the bare frame then neutralized  it and painted the frame. I won’t have to paint the sheet metal as it’s already done painted. I’ll just touch up the rivets when it’s all assembled. 

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I spent the morning laying out the back of the cab sheet metal. I cut it to fit then laid out all the rivet locations....108 rivets. I drilled the four corners and set Cleco's in those holes and proceeded to drill out all the rest. I finished up all the holes and laid out the back window opening and taped it off for a cut line. Tomorrow I will get out the air cut off wheel and cut out the opening. I will then set that panel aside and start working on the top panel. That one will be a little harder to do as it rolls down the sides and is not flat. I will lay it out from the back edge and leave the front long until I have it in position then I will mark and cut off the front edge. 

Once those two panels are done I can attach them with rivets then make the two small side panels and the bottom filler panel. A little sealant work on the seams, paint the rivets, and it will be ready to go. 

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Today I got that back window opening cut out. I need to clean up the sharp edges and work the cut lines a bit as they are sharp. I also laid out and cut the top metal. I cut it long so I had material to grab onto to bend the sides around. I set six rivet holes to hold the skin in place first then ran a line of cleco's on the last point of support before one of the bends. I clamped a bar across the long edge and used ratchet straps to pull that edge around the corner. I marked where everything gets cut off and marked a center line for the rivets on the edge. Tomorrow I will drill the rivet holes on that side and duplicate everything on the other side. I will then finish drilling all the rivet holes after laying them all out. Once I mark all the trim lines I will remove the skin and trim it to fit and then put it back on for keeps sealing the skin to the frame with silicone and setting all the rivets. 

 

Getting those sides to roll over is a chore. It will take four hands to get them to roll over once I remove that extra material I'm using to pull it around the corners. I could cheat and attach the one side first and pull the whole sheet around the corner to get it started but I will still have to work with rolling the last short side......I think I will get the flat sections fastened first and just hand work the sides with some help from the wife. It is looking very nice and it looks really good from the inside. 

 

I'll put the back skin on next then cut and attach the small side pieces and filler piece for the back. My window channel should be here in a few days and the weather stripping is on it's way as well. I'll have this thing done in a couple weeks time for sure...waiting on parts is going to slow me down. 

 

Oh, I found a place online that sells keys by the number on the lock.....and I found keys for the locks on this top so I can order me a set of keys and be able to lock the Jeep up!

 

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Well, I had to buy more tools :laugh:  I broke my little hand riveter within minutes of starting to attach the sheet metal. Worst part was when it let go I scratched the top a bit. I bought a big lever operated rivet tool and it works great. I broke two drill bits today as well...not my day for tools. Once the top was on I realized I am going to want to coat it with white bedliner to sound proof it and make it more durable. Bonus is it will hide my boo boo and cover the aluminum rivets. ( I was going to fix it but now I won't have to) 

 

I called a place that does the bed liner and they wanted 8 bucks a sq. foot plus labor....yeah, they can kiss my behind on that price as I have 35 sq. feet to cover. I can get a kit and do it myself for $120. The top went on very nicely and tomorrow I will get the back on and make the panels for the sides and filler piece. I will venture to the stores and see who has the white bedliner kits in stock and if everything goes well I may finish it up this weekend. 

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What sealant did You use between frame and sheet metal ?.  I always had excellent luck with Sikaflex sealants . I used it to skin a couple of Race car trailers ,along with several Semi tractor . lite walled enclosed trailers . Kraft foods sold a bunch of early fiberglass skinned Aluminum bed trailers way back and a friend bought several for storage . I talked him into reskinning with aluminum panels using 252 Sikaflex  ,actually sold #3 of those trailers for on road use . Still good to this day as far as I know .

Problem with original skins  being fiberglass , was NO Diagonal reinforcing between studs  and the WIND vibrated them traveling down the road . That's WHY Kraft dumped them . I made several dozen  hat channel Structural fiberglass bracing and simply used 252 to adhere them too those Aluminum skins inside   between  the studs . Eliminated ALL wind and road vibration  . Those Trailers were SUPER SWEET  being Aluminum  I beam constructed  made by Fruehauf .  . Where could one buy a Fruehauf Aluminum 53 Ft. Semi Trailer , Near Brand New for $2,400.00 ( Scrap price on them  at the time )  Oh what I'd give to have a couple NOW :segrin:

 

https://www.ellsworth.com/products/by-market/general-industry/sealants/polyurethane/sika-sikaflex-252-polyurethane-elastic-adhesive-white-10.5-oz-cartridge/

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4 hours ago, BushXM15 said:

What sealant did You use between frame and sheet metal ?.  I always had excellent luck with Sikaflex sealants . I used it to skin a couple of Race car trailers ,along with several Semi tractor . lite walled enclosed trailers . Kraft foods sold a bunch of early fiberglass skinned Aluminum bed trailers way back and a friend bought several for storage . I talked him into reskinning with aluminum panels using 252 Sikaflex  ,actually sold #3 of those trailers for on road use . Still good to this day as far as I know .

Problem with original skins  being fiberglass , was NO Diagonal reinforcing between studs  and the WIND vibrated them traveling down the road . That's WHY Kraft dumped them . I made several dozen  hat channel Structural fiberglass bracing and simply used 252 to adhere them too those Aluminum skins inside   between  the studs . Eliminated ALL wind and road vibration  . Those Trailers were SUPER SWEET  being Aluminum  I beam constructed  made by Fruehauf .  . Where could one buy a Fruehauf Aluminum 53 Ft. Semi Trailer , Near Brand New for $2,400.00 ( Scrap price on them  at the time )  Oh what I'd give to have a couple NOW :segrin:

 

https://www.ellsworth.com/products/by-market/general-industry/sealants/polyurethane/sika-sikaflex-252-polyurethane-elastic-adhesive-white-10.5-oz-cartridge/

I don't remember the brand but it's an automotive paintable caulking. I just wanted something between the panel and frame to stop any noise. I don't think I will have any issue with the wind moving the panels but tapping on them sounds kinda tinnie so I will coat them in bedliner to deaden that sound and make the finish more durable. 

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I got all the panels on today and went looking for white roll on bed liner......none to be had and I checked seven stores. There was one in white that was a spray on and I don't want that. I don't want the mess and prep work. I have done the roll on and it comes out very nice and is not messy and very little masking needed. 

 

I have some grinding to do on the edges of the door headers and I will need to repaint those areas once they are where I want them. It's 110* outside right now so I'm taking a break before I go out and finish up that little bit of work. I'll get some pictures of the cab as well to post up. 

 

Tomorrow morning I will start working on getting the doors ready for paint. I don't plan on putting the bed liner on the doors. I'm going to paint them white. The new window channel will be here by UPS today and the weather stripping is on it's way. I have a couple more parts to strip and paint and this thing will be really close to done very soon.   

 

 

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more pics......

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My big fear putting this together was drilling a hole wrong. I laid out all the rivets and centered them the best I could for each panel and did a pretty good job on the back, sides and top. When I made the small filler panel, for the back of the cab between the fender wells, I laid out and riveted it together not thinking when bolted on it was going to be next to another line of rivets. I should have held the two parts together and made sure the rivets lined up.....but alas I did not and the bottom filler piece and the back panel have an odd mating of rivets......my OCD is tingling pretty hard but I'm trying to ignore it because I am not making another frame and panel. 

 

I actually screwed up twice on that panel as I attached the skin to the wrong side first so I have a whole bunch of holes in the frame work on the inside now. If I would have caught my error faster I would have left that panel on the inside and just added a new panel on the outside and made sure the rivets lined up......so I made a double boo boo. 

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17 hours ago, towtruck said:

My big fear putting this together was drilling a hole wrong. I laid out all the rivets and centered them the best I could for each panel and did a pretty good job on the back, sides and top. When I made the small filler panel, for the back of the cab between the fender wells, I laid out and riveted it together not thinking when bolted on it was going to be next to another line of rivets. I should have held the two parts together and made sure the rivets lined up.....but alas I did not and the bottom filler piece and the back panel have an odd mating of rivets......my OCD is tingling pretty hard but I'm trying to ignore it because I am not making another frame and panel. 

 

I actually screwed up twice on that panel as I attached the skin to the wrong side first so I have a whole bunch of holes in the frame work on the inside now. If I would have caught my error faster I would have left that panel on the inside and just added a new panel on the outside and made sure the rivets lined up......so I made a double boo boo. 

 

Don't beat yourself up , from where I set Rivets look straight and NOBODY but YOU will ever notice it :tap:. Looking good TT , Bedliner White  SpeedKote T Rex is pricey

Gator Guard is less expensive as is Raptor  ,I prefer Herculiner  doubt they make white though as I've never seen it  . Got a Sears by You ? ,check them for clearance sales .

 

https://www.eastwood.com/white-gator-guard-ii-truck-bed-liner.html

 

https://carcaretotal.com/best-roll-on-bedliner/

 

https://www.durabakcompany.com/pages/colors

 

 

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43 minutes ago, BushXM15 said:

 

Don't beat yourself up , from where I set Rivets look straight and NOBODY but YOU will ever notice it :tap:. Looking good TT , Bedliner White  SpeedKote T Rex is pricey

Gator Guard is less expensive as is Raptor  ,I prefer Herculiner  doubt they make white though as I've never seen it  . Got a Sears by You ? ,check them for clearance sales .

 

https://www.eastwood.com/white-gator-guard-ii-truck-bed-liner.html

 

https://carcaretotal.com/best-roll-on-bedliner/

 

https://www.durabakcompany.com/pages/colors

 

 

I ended up ordering a roll on kit in white and I want to say it was Herculiner but I'm not sure. They had the Raptor in white but it was spray on. 

 

I set that lower piece against the back today and the rivets, while they don't line up well, don't look bad. Once it's all white they will blend in more. I am really happy with all the rivets on the top and back as they came out great.  I started working on the doors and I am prepping the passenger door now and I do believe I will coat the inner panel and the outside skin in bed liner as well just to make it all match.  I got the A pillar brackets painted and put on today. I need to finish up the sanding on the passenger door and get all the old weather strip goo off of it. I'll prep that door and maybe start on the drivers side if the weather holds......we had a surprise thunder storm this morning that messed up my painting schedule. 

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6 minutes ago, towtruck said:

I ended up ordering a roll on kit in white and I want to say it was Herculiner but I'm not sure. They had the Raptor in white but it was spray on. 

 

I set that lower piece against the back today and the rivets, while they don't line up well, don't look bad. Once it's all white they will blend in more. I am really happy with all the rivets on the top and back as they came out great.  I started working on the doors and I am prepping the passenger door now and I do believe I will coat the inner panel and the outside skin in bed liner as well just to make it all match.  I got the A pillar brackets painted and put on today. I need to finish up the sanding on the passenger door and get all the old weather strip goo off of it. I'll prep that door and maybe start on the drivers side if the weather holds......we had a surprise thunder storm this morning that messed up my painting schedule. 

 

Yeah Rain, I  heard about that out of Vacaville This AM , along with heat which might be good for steaming buns I guess but Not so good painting wise .

Are You rolling inside as well as outside on the top ?.  Between You and I , I would  and WHY is a Kit only spray on application ?.  If it can be sprayed it should be able too be rolled or brushed *; as far as the material is concerned . Now as far as appearance is concerned , that's another matter  entirely .

Urethane like other paint matrix's changes characteristics when rolled or spray ,even changing air pressure will affect application .  Try shooting metallic at high volume low pressure and see what happens ( Don't You won't like it ) .    

* Many bottom as well as top coat paints will use a different solvent ,when rolled or brushed which are slower evaporating . Air spraying requires a quicker evaporating solvent generally ( in really hot areas Mojave we blended our solvents had too ) .  

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41 minutes ago, BushXM15 said:

 

Yeah Rain, I  heard about that out of Vacaville This AM , along with heat which might be good for steaming buns I guess but Not so good painting wise .

Are You rolling inside as well as outside on the top ?.  Between You and I , I would  and WHY is a Kit only spray on application ?.  If it can be sprayed it should be able too be rolled or brushed *; as far as the material is concerned . Now as far as appearance is concerned , that's another matter  entirely .

Urethane like other paint matrix's changes characteristics when rolled or spray ,even changing air pressure will affect application .  Try shooting metallic at high volume low pressure and see what happens ( Don't You won't like it ) .    

* Many bottom as well as top coat paints will use a different solvent ,when rolled or brushed which are slower evaporating . Air spraying requires a quicker evaporating solvent generally ( in really hot areas Mojave we blended our solvents had too ) .  

I realized on the way home after ordering the roll on kit that I should have been able to roll on the spray kit too. I would have had to buy the roller but I'm sure it could have been done. I was not thinking right yesterday as I was mid stream working on the top when the wife gave me 5 minutes to get showered, dressed, and in the truck to go over to her friends house. I was hot, tired, and not in the mood when we left......once out the wife decided to drag me to every store in 110* heat to find what I needed. The very last place is the only one that had white of any kind and I kinda wasn't thinking too well at that point ....I wanted to get home so I ordered the white roll on and got back to the air conditioning. My Blazer's air works but stopping at seven stores, masking up, and trudging around after already being tired was no fun at 110*

 

I am only going to coat the outside of the cab, the outside of the doors, and the flat area of the inner door panel. I'm doing the doors to make it all match color wise and to cut out some prep work that would be needed if I was to paint the doors only. I'm in no mood to do a full prep and paint on those doors so a scuff and roll on is going to save me time, headache, and money and it will all have the same finish on the outside. When I do the full cab I will roll on the top and paint everything else. That way the doors will have the same finish as the top and the rest will be smooth paint......but I'm a long way from starting on that full cab. 

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