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My first build


Wyldeman
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I wasn’t sure if I should put this in the beginners section or in here.

 

I’m building my first AR and I was hoping to have someone more educated and willing to look over my parts list for the setup and let me know what they think. I’m kind of SOL if I messed up on a purchase but I researched a lot and I’m confident I have all the right parts and that they are of a decent quality.

 

Anyways, I think I still need to get a muzzle device of some sort and I’m still a little in the dark about assembly processes because I just haven’t read the tutorials I have found yet. If anyone could recommend a good, well priced muzzle device (preferably a flash hider or comp/FH combo, and not a comp).

 

If anyone feels like giving me a good summary of the best resources on the forum (and elsewhere) for a first timer, that would be greatly appreciated as well. Thank you in advance.

 

Please see the attached picture. a2c7e40923eafaa3a72e71fede7c7770.jpg

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Welcome to the Board and Congratulations on building your own ! !

 

Is this your only AR ?  What will be its primary function(s) ?

For the range only, varmint hunting or self defense ? 

If the rifle's purpose includes self defense, there may be a few components you may want to reconsider. 

I know their is someone here who has bought a couple of Bear Creek barrels, but my aged memory can't remember who.

Hopefully he will be a along to share his experiences with them. What kind of base accuracy do you need for what you want to use the AR for, and at what distances? 

 

The Leapers PRO series stocks are an improvement over their standard line, which is often used for airsoft. There are better choices out there.  There will be nothing wrong with the Anderson charging handle if it is a true mil-spec design. However, the original design has a design flaw where the pin that connects the latch to the to the handle have a bad habit of shearing that pin off after a certain # of rounds or vigorous use. Other designs have much stronger and easier to use ambidextrous designs that are much easier to charger the weapon with, especially under the enormous stress of having to defend yourself against one or more people who are trying to lill you. 

 

If you are in a position to cancel orders some of these problematic components, you may want to consider that. I can't imagine trying to find top rate components right now with which to build an AR, but there is nothing here that can't be overcome with some effort. If the parts are still sealed in their original package, you will have the best chance of getting a refund. Much depends on which Vendor you ordered the parts from. Some vendors have great customer service, others not so much. If you got the parts from a Local Gun Store (LGS) that you have been doing business with for a while, you may have an easy time. Watch out for large re-stocking fees from some vendors who use them.  If the gun is not going to be used for self defense, there are less worries. 

 

My motto is to "Shoot what you like and like what you shoot." I know most people have budget constraints, but on just a few things, it would probably be better and wait, because there are many better quality manufacturer's on some of these components, and some are not all that much more money.  

FYI: While I have read that the UTG stocks are an improvement over their regular line, I have never seen one in the flesh. 

 

I'm passing this along since you asked. I think my biggest concern after getting a bad barrel (it will more likely on the lower accuracy side, but if you are shooting a max of 100 yards and just want to attain "minute of bad guy accuracy", or if the gun is not for self defense. My biggest concern for catastrophic failure, and operating under stress would be the charging handle. 

A sturdy one is not expensive. You don't want to break it and end up with a club in your hands. The accuracy of the barrel should work fine for shorter distances, and you'll have to test that UTG Pro Series yourself to see if it is sturdy enough to take some abuse. (Look up "Mortaring your AR to remove a stuck case.) If you can return that stock, you may be able to find a simple Magpul or buy a used one here when you can. Otherwise sell it, or use it till it breaks. Is the buffer tube and the locking ring also made by Leapers.

 

I've already gone on too long. The bottom line is if it meets your needs. Have fun !

If it is in part for self defense, it has to go bang every time, and the bullet must go where you aim it. 

 

John

 

Oh yeah, I would just get an A2 flash hider that is made in USA from mil-spec steel.

They do a good job of hiding flash, and the bottom surface does not have open slots, so it you are shooting prone, it won't kick up as much dirt when you fire. They are not expensive. If you want to swap it out later, it's easy to do. Then your old flash hider becomes the basis fore your next build, and you will have leaned a lot. I've never built my own AR, so more guys will be by to help you out. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Retcop
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Looks decent to me. I like the mid-length selection. Looks like you researched well. I too have read the same regarding BC barrels. The UTG handguards are made in the USA. I have 2 and both a re just fine. Glad you mentioned the Magpul version. My first was their version which only accepts their proprietary accessory adapters, covers, etc. For a flash hider I'd just get a basic A2 type. Hard sights are fine. Any plans for optics in the future? Do you have the necessary tools, vise, rcvr blocks, etc?

 

Plenty of excellent youtubes regarding assembly. And plenty of help here too.

 

Congrats and welcome to the forum.

 

Note: Tools, blocks, vises, etc can get expensive if only doing a single AR.

 

Should be lots of expertise in the area. lol.

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[mention]Retcop [/mention] thank you for all of the advice John.

Pretty much all of the orders have now shipped and I will start assembling the upper and start the lower with its corresponding parts when it comes. Either way, I will look into alternatives for the parts that were mentioned as possibly crap. By no means do I want to build something that can’t be used for what it’s built for, and I’m building for multipurpose. I wanted to use a shorter barrel so it could have more of a self defense capacity but I think 16 is a good compromise for range so that I can still have an accurate rifle at distance without extensive length and no 200 dollar tax stamp for “extra”shortness.

I’ll admit I was a little cheap with some of my parts but I tried to read a lot to make sure of the specifications being up to standard. They said that they expect the barrel to hold a 1.000” MOA at 100 yards. I think that’s pretty decent although I don’t know how it will hold up over a 100 and I’d like it to still be consistent.

As for the charging handle, I will post a pic because I’m not all too familiar with the components of one yet or what a mil-spec one inherently looks like. I will seriously take what you said into consideration about the importance of its functionality. I have a sidearm for self defense in the meantime.

I will also be getting the flash hider you mentioned, thank you. Does anyone know anything about securing them well? I have seen a few things about loctite and how under high temps it will melt and some people use some other sealant I can’t remember.


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Just remember that this is your first build and there will probably be many more in the future! I am not a builder. I buy complete uppers and lowers but I started out with one and I just bought my third. It’s never ending. Have fun and enjoy it. If you do end up using all these parts for the time being, you can always swap those out for more quality parts as availability and money allows it.

Sean


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[mention]bamashooter [/mention] thanks for the reply! I actually almost bought a carbine length gas system and corresponding barrel until I read about the pressure differences and how it affects the components and I quickly switched to mid length. I’m hoping the BC barrel is up to snuff. I’ve read both good and bad.

I do have quite a bit of tools and bought an AR wrench and a roll pin punch set that came with a rubber hammer. I work on a lot of other things so I’ve got lots of tools to Jerry rig stuff if need be, but for the most part I think I’m covered with the Vice and the wrench I now have.

I don’t actually have action blocks which I’m reading about now and I am also getting mixed info on their necessity. Another part to get haha


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6 hours ago, Jrob7 said:

:doh: [mention]bamashooter [/mention] meant to mention I am interested in putting on another optic to co-witness with the irons. Not sure what I want yet or what is good exactly.


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I think take it ez for now. become proficient with the hard sights then at your choosing, we'll deal with assorted optics to best meet your needs and lifestyle. Regarding the charging handle, of course the release mechanism to include the spring need to function well. The precise machining of it is a big deal for me be it along the stem or the head area where it latches to the rcvr. Most all I've had are good in that dept. What I can't stand is a CH that's flimsy, weak, etc. You'll know one when you feel / examine one. Perhaps they've changed and I take no joy in saying this; the worst I've seen regarding flimsy junk are those from Palmetto. Perhaps in the last year or so they've strengthened them but my history with them is not good. Not a PSA hater in any way.

 

Help me please. When you go to quote someone, why does it bracket the member name with [mention] and [/mention]?

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[mention]bamashooter [/mention] thanks for the explanation.

I’m sorry I can’t be of any help on your question about the bracketing. I think it’s probably just a system thing with the way the code was written. On the app I use (Tapatalk) I can click a little “@“ button that is in a menu of four other buttons that sit above my keyboard. Then I search for a member by username. 0812f5c2fb0bf4503be5e073ffa41992.jpg
I’ve attached a picture of what it looks like for me. Maybe it is different on the platform you use.


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