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BushXM15

Dowel Fencing Have You done any !.

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Anyone ever do any dowel rail fencing ?.  Major PITA !!!!!!!!!!!.  Used the tractor and lifting strap ,so as hopefully pop posts out of the ground . Um it did and Didn't work out so well :ohmy:

 

A few posts broke off about 12-20 inches below ground and they needed to be in the ground average 28 inches :tap: . Needless to say a couple hour project turned into a Day and  half . With component selection extremely low as in Slim Pickins !, It turned into a Daymare for Bush :thumbdown:

Solid compacted ground break off a post and you dig ,except shovel or post hole digger WON'T help ,post butts prevent digging . So You use a pick bar slamming posts until you can get them tp split and pulled out ,all the while using a garden shovel digging around the outside of that F ing post !. Super Slow mucking a post hole :thumbdown: . Anyway a dowel fence while looking cool is a genuine SOB to actually do , 8 Ft. centers is PARAMOUNT ( or the full length of ones rails ) .

I Didn't want to pull the last post and with under sized post to begin with it became a Mutahs F'er !. Dowel ends touched each other going through the post  How the Hell does one Plumb the post ,if you can't get clearance between the rail dowels .

I ended up doing fairly well but I'm here to tell anyone who's reading this ,BE DAMN SURE Your End and Field Posts are Large enough diameter wise ,so Dowel ends DON'T hit inside the post . Because You WON'T be able too Plumb the posts !.  

Some material and Semi driver shortages is preventing CWA wood preservative treatment on Raw rails and post ,so Bush had to scrounge around in a Logging yard  for #3 rail post treated ,which there were NONE ,so I got #4 Rail  post and cut them retreated and treated My New Rails . NOT easy nor inexpensive I assure you :thumb:   It's coming up our driveway and I was Tired of seeing that portion of fence broken ,as it was unsightly and the rest of our place is Beautiful ,so I FIXED IT !.

 

These original Posts and rails  are NOT Standard , as My Field posts run 5-9" in Diameter and some end post are 16" in Diameter and  ALL are Untreated .

IF I'm replacing them their gonna be TREATED ,because I'm ONLY doing it once .  Try starting #6 Rails into two posts and angling and lifting ,so as to get last two field post with rails in while Not removing final end post !!!!!!!! :thumbdown:   You only think You know ,unless You've done it !. Straight they are as I centered string line, plumb well ah some :segrin:

 

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Bush did CWA treat the last three rails and end post ,where the opening is down by the metal pasture gate ,the rest wait until Flame Bushes go dormant and Wife cuts them back away from the fence , so I can hopefully treat the original and they might last a few more seasons or until material yards get their poop poo together :whistling:

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I think you know there are initial builds that can be repaired easily and others where repairs become a project in and of themselves. That old standing rail fence, for a mid fence repair, is a project indeed, without moving or breaking off the old untreated vertical posts.

I have a 9” and a 12” tractor mounted auger. I have used it before to drill holes next to my concrete set posts to loosen them up to repair a horizontal brace mounted in holes with pins. It will drill at a slight angle, left or right by pushing the top over, or front to back by setting the point down firmly and easing the tractor forward. It works pretty well to loosen a set post without breaking it off.

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4 hours ago, Recondo 101 said:

I think you know there are initial builds that can be repaired easily and others where repairs become a project in and of themselves. That old standing rail fence, for a mid fence repair, is a project indeed, without moving or breaking off the old untreated vertical posts.

I have a 9” and a 12” tractor mounted auger. I have used it before to drill holes next to my concrete set posts to loosen them up to repair a horizontal brace mounted in holes with pins. It will drill at a slight angle, left or right by pushing the top over, or front to back by setting the point down firmly and easing the tractor forward. It works pretty well to loosen a set post without breaking it off.

 

Frankly I had never considered using the Tractors augur at an angle :thumb: . I can tell anyone it's a MAJOR PITA HURT yourself proposition , DIGGING by hand removal of broken off wood posts ; Especially in compacted dry soil ,with gravel on top :thumbdown: . I figured lifting post out with bucket and strap was GOOD  but two broke off down in the ground and you simply CAN'T use a clam or post hole shovel to dig half rotted post . Just getting a small piece of splintered wooden post in the dirt , makes for not being able to close the post hole shovel and all the dirt goes right back into the hole . 24-32" is a ways too put ones arm down with a garden shovel and muck out debris . I felt REAL STUPID ,NOT attaching the Augur  4 hr. later :facepalm:

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I have just been there and done that, three times now. The first time was a cluster.

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I believe I have seen that done with a bucket and some chain.     Gentle wiggle and pull...pop!

It was so long ago, maybe I dreamed it. 

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5 hours ago, Retcop said:

I believe I have seen that done with a bucket and some chain.     Gentle wiggle and pull...pop!

It was so long ago, maybe I dreamed it. 

I used a lifting strap and pulled as vertical as possible ,yet there's NO accounting for the degree of rot 24-30" below ground :dontknow:

# 3 out of 5 popped out  but the two which didn't  presented as Recondo 101 stated a Cluster and You know the rest . Took nearly as long to dig and remove those broken posts ,as it did to redo the entire post and rail replacement ; Including pre-treating all the posts and rails . That ground has seen 100 Ton cranes ,cement mixers semi truck trailer compacting over the years . Plus the fact I tried NOT to enlarge the holes anymore than absolutely necessary ,due to the fact replacement post were smaller Diameter to begin with and I wanted a Sturdy replaced fence . :thumb:

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