gtz Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 When making a holster with an attached light, had anyone noticed if the plastic on the light melted? My kydex was just delivered to my house so I plan on starting my first holster when I get home from work. I plan on making an OWB holster for my M&P with an attached TLR-3 and I just don't want to melt anything except the kydex. Thanks for any and all help, GTZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepper Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 The plastic on the light doesn't melt. However, you're also in control of the heat. Kydex becomes flexible at a temperature much lower than many other plastics. You want it warm enough to form, but not hot enough that it's a "limp noodle". Think of it about the way you would wet leather to form it into a holster. Keep it just too hot to touch, and you're fine. Any hotter, you'll make it start to melt, and it won't hold the shape you put into it. The best way to start out with Kydex, is to warm it slowly. Heat it up gradually, until it starts doing what you want it to do. If it cools too much while you're still working it, give it a little more. Remove the gun fairly often as the stuff hardens, and let the gun/sights/light cool. Water doesn't harm kydex, so wet your light down if you're worried, right before you put it back into the hot material. Take your time, go slowly, and enjoy the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtz Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEFFSGTP Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 well here is the final pictures as promised...I think it turned out well...have had a couple friends ask where I bought it and look dumbfounded when I said I made it, so I guess I did OK job on it! HIP SIDE: BELT SIDE: ON MY HIP: I think If I make a new holster, I am going to try to figure out how to line the kydex with leather suede before I heat and form it....my Safariland holster (Duty Carry) has leather inside and it seems like the way to go....will post back if I get it to work with instsructions on what used etc. Comments, questions, suggenstions on above or my idea to leather line it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMViergever Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 Hey guys Here are some holsters I've made in the last couple days. It's posted in another forum but you will have to click on the link so I don't have to retype it all haha. Thread on holsters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commanderdrako Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retcop Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 (edited) Great post. Should this not be a sticky? Edited October 3, 2011 by Retcop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbe Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Good stuff indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wils91 Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I've come along way in quality with my last few holsters. there have been others I've made but these are the latest. if your looking for a cheap alternative to the foam from knifekits, you can find a cheaper suitable replacement that is better than the camping mat foam in the garden section at your local Lowes. they are thick blue kneeling pads the first is a OWB for my wifes 638 j-frame 08 back and .06 front. i messed on a couple rivets when lining them up. always happens. this is the first thing I've made in close to a year yeah it's pink but that's what she wanted. Also made this IWB for my new G19. .08 Coyote used .08 for the clip as well which will need to fine tuning after wearing it. needs shortened up a bit but it's functional Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousD Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Looks good. I have a small strip of kydex that I have my hole pattern drilled in, and I use it as a template on every holster, that way they are all the same, and they are much more likely to be straight. I havent tried making a revolver holster yet, but I know I could. I just want to make them with a sweatshield on the back. And to do that I need some dowel that is the same size as the cylinder to put behind it so the kudex doesnt wrap around it and lock the gun in the holster. I may use some type of putty though. Ive seen people using it for holsters lately. And how did you get the kydex off of the gun where you screwed the belt loop? Just a piece of wood or something? I have a buddy who got his girlfriend a S&W Airweight, and she wants a holster for it. I have some polished brass eyelets and Ill order some pink kydex. She should like that. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wils91 Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Looks good. I have a small strip of kydex that I have my hole pattern drilled in, and I use it as a template on every holster, that way they are all the same, and they are much more likely to be straight. I havent tried making a revolver holster yet, but I know I could. I just want to make them with a sweatshield on the back. And to do that I need some dowel that is the same size as the cylinder to put behind it so the kudex doesnt wrap around it and lock the gun in the holster. I may use some type of putty though. Ive seen people using it for holsters lately. And how did you get the kydex off of the gun where you screwed the belt loop? Just a piece of wood or something? I have a buddy who got his girlfriend a S&W Airweight, and she wants a holster for it. I have some polished brass eyelets and Ill order some pink kydex. She should like that. lol thanks. I'll probably make some sort of template. it really only took me about 45-60 total minutes to do the pink holster. i have a 15 month old little girl so i have to get as much use out of my spare time as possible. for the cylinder channel you could probably just heat the sweat shield area with a heat gun and draw the pistol out to get the clearance you need. i think putty would be to pliable and get too soft with the heat. for the G19 holster i have 2 pieces of kydex bonded together, i think it's a piece of .08 and .06. i bonded them and then rounded the edges on my belt sander. you'll also need a spacer to go inbetween the bonded piece and the slide of the pistol so it doesn't rock otherwise it will be uneven when you press it, and tape it down really well with painters tape so it doesn't move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousD Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Ive never had good luck with heating larger areas like that. And the putty Ive seen people use is some kind of epoxy putty. Its not like play doh or anything. It can take the heat. Its how huge holster makers keep their stuff consistent. I need to try a fold over holster like your Glock one. Ive made tons of two piece ones like the revolver one you made. Check out my progress Ive made. I have a link to my Kydex thread in my sig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wils91 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Ive never had good luck with heating larger areas like that. And the putty Ive seen people use is some kind of epoxy putty. Its not like play doh or anything. It can take the heat. Its how huge holster makers keep their stuff consistent. I need to try a fold over holster like your Glock one. Ive made tons of two piece ones like the revolver one you made. Check out my progress Ive made. I have a link to my Kydex thread in my sig. your holsters look good. i like the progress you've made. i made this the other day. a fold over IWB for my Model 640 .357 j-frame I also made one for my Kel-tec PF-9 using a piece i originally cut for the 640 but it was too small. i still need to get pictures of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnonymousD Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Looks good. Hows the retention with it closing in a bit behind the cylinder though? My plan was to get some wooded dowel the same size as the cylinder, and cut it so it fit behind the cylinder to allow a smooth path for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wils91 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Looks good. Hows the retention with it closing in a bit behind the cylinder though? My plan was to get some wooded dowel the same size as the cylinder, and cut it so it fit behind the cylinder to allow a smooth path for it. the side that has the mount allows the pistol enough room to draw it. the trigger guard and the non mount side provide plenty of rentention. i need a shorter screw though to get it to be a hair tighter. i just need to cut one. all i did was spot heat it with the heat gun to remove the definition after molding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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