Jump to content
hoser

FLGR or not in 1911?

Recommended Posts

I have a 10mm 1911 that has one installed already but I'd prefer to NOT have one, but thought I'd ask before I have it removed. Do you recommend FLGR's in 10mm 1911's or are the not really necessary? Normally, I don't like them, but have been told they're a good idea for 10mm. Fact or myth?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There was one in my 5" Springfield loaded. I replaced it with a plug recently, but I haven't shot it yet. It loosened a few times at the range and had to go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you're not experiencing issues with it, keep it. My stance on FLGR, if they have them and work, leave 'em alone. If they cause issues, then replace them. I wouldn't spend the money to put one in a gun that had a standard GR and plug.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

None other than Mr. Bob Serva of Fusion Firearms (formerly of course, of Dan Wesson) says they are NOT necessary.

 

Sam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm of the impression that the FLGR helps to keep the rcoil spring from bunching up or over running itself, during the recoil process. We all know that the 10mm is a higher impulse round than the 45 and slide velocities are somewhat faster. If the spring tends to bunch up or over run itself, it could lead to a failure or breakage of the spring, I would think. I see where many are using the extra power recoil springs of 24 lb and some higher for their pistols.

 

Do you think that the FLGR would stabilize the spring better to elimnate the spring bunching up as it is compressed to its maximum? :dontknow:

 

Does the extra power spring also being stiffer help the spring from getting wadded up? :dontknow:

 

I'm just tossing these questions out there for feelers to get other opinons! :CONFUS12:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, my question about FLGR is specifically for 10mm 1911. I do not that them on my 45's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've read articles for and against. Personally I like them because of the way pistol balances in my hand. In my Kimber 10mm I think the extra weight helps with muzzle flip. Now as I am typing this I'm thinking I might try shooting the Kimber with a standard guide and plug just to see if there really is any difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think they offer any performance advantage. They also make disassembly more of a pain in the ass. I don't have one in my custom 1911 and it works fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm of the impression that the FLGR helps to keep the rcoil spring from bunching up or over running itself, during the recoil process. We all know that the 10mm is a higher impulse round than the 45 and slide velocities are somewhat faster. If the spring tends to bunch up or over run itself, it could lead to a failure or breakage of the spring, I would think. I see where many are using the extra power recoil springs of 24 lb and some higher for their pistols.

 

Do you think that the FLGR would stabilize the spring better to elimnate the spring bunching up as it is compressed to its maximum? :dontknow:

 

Does the extra power spring also being stiffer help the spring from getting wadded up? :dontknow:

 

I'm just tossing these questions out there for feelers to get other opinons! :CONFUS12:

 

With the dust cover around it, the deflection of the spring is already limited.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gene(10)mm, let us know how it goes!

 

Yeah, I'd LOVE to take mine out. I agree, pain to disassemble, but I didn't want to replace until I received some advice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my experience, a FLGR merely extends the usefull life of the recoil spring, nothing more. I'm not one for replacing springs very often so I like FLGR's if they are already installed.

Ryan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
They also make disassembly more of a pain in the ass. I don't have one in my custom 1911 and it works fine.

Then you're doing something wrong because the only real advantage to FLGR is easier to take the gun apart and spring life maybe. Spring life advantage might only be useful to comp shooters and that is debatable.

 

Just move the slide back to the notch and pop pin out and slide off the slide, the rest is even simpler. Ease of take down is only reason I use a FLG for those who want to know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll have to side with the nots on this one. I don't care for them except when using a bushingless system with a reverse plug. I think it probably was one of those things that became fashionable for 'smiths to add to a custom job... But don't have much actual value to the shooter.

On my personal guns I remove them to make disassembly easier, but haven't had a problem with the one piece guide rods. 2 piece guide rods are spawn of the devil. IMHO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Then you're doing something wrong because the only real advantage to FLGR is easier to take the gun apart and spring life maybe. Spring life advantage might only be useful to comp shooters and that is debatable.

 

Just move the slide back to the notch and pop pin out and slide off the slide, the rest is even simpler. Ease of take down is only reason I use a FLG for those who want to know.

 

:no: If its a 2 pc guide rod its more complicated. There is no real reason for it anyway, its like tits on a bull. It won't make you or your gun shoot better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the gun is a defensive 1911, then ditch the full length guide rod. A standard GI rod gives you more options for single handed stoppage drills.

 

If it is a comp gun, then keep it or lose, your choice.

 

The FLGR only comes into its own at lower end of the load cycle, like reloading very low velocity rounds, and you want a smooth cycling of the recoil spring to minise wasted energy transfer. You may also want a little bit of extra weight in the frame area to minimise muzzle rise upon recoil, and using a Tugsten FLGR as it is heavier and better upon recoil, although much more expensive.

 

Its all about tailoring the gun for the need at hand, not saying which is better.

 

Cheers,

 

Aussie D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a 10mm 1911 that has one installed already but I'd prefer to NOT have one, but thought I'd ask before I have it removed. Do you recommend FLGR's in 10mm 1911's or are the not really necessary? Normally, I don't like them, but have been told they're a good idea for 10mm. Fact or myth?

 

 

Please excuse my ignorance and tell me what a FLRG is.

 

Disregard, someone later on spelled it out. Thanks.

Edited by Retcop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have one in my springer and despise the thing. (it's a 45). Damn 2 piece POS and it requires an extra tool to disassemble. The 1911 was designed to disassemble completely with no tools at all. When I got the springer, the FLGR's were first getting really popular and there was a bunch of hype on the issue. Having had one now for many years, I have learned to hate them. If it were easier to find a stainless plug, I would have already replaced it. I may just go with a blue plug and say fuzz it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have one in my springer and despise the thing. (it's a 45). Damn 2 piece POS and it requires an extra tool to disassemble. The 1911 was designed to disassemble completely with no tools at all. When I got the springer, the FLGR's were first getting really popular and there was a bunch of hype on the issue. Having had one now for many years, I have learned to hate them. If it were easier to find a stainless plug, I would have already replaced it. I may just go with a blue plug and say fuzz it.

 

Yes 2 piece is POS, but one piece is totally different. You can just pull slide back and remove the pin and slide the top end off. From there it's a piece of cake. To reassemble just do normal reassembly, then reinstall slide on frame and put the pin in the frame thru barrel link.

 

But 2 piece is a PIA because of the extra tool, often wondered if it really helps with accuracy. My guess is no.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Neither Les Baer nor Ed Brown will use FLGR. Its a gimmick and serves no purpose. My $3500 custom will shoot groups just over 1" at 50 yards with the standard GI plug. If you want to run one thats cool, just don't expect it to turn your gun into a precision lead launcher. Properly hand fitting the barrel to the slide, the bushing to the barrel, slide to frame and hammer to sear are proven methods to enhance accuracy. All else is window dressing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have one in my springer and despise the thing. (it's a 45). Damn 2 piece POS and it requires an extra tool to disassemble. The 1911 was designed to disassemble completely with no tools at all. When I got the springer, the FLGR's were first getting really popular and there was a bunch of hype on the issue. Having had one now for many years, I have learned to hate them. If it were easier to find a stainless plug, I would have already replaced it. I may just go with a blue plug and say fuzz it.

Ed Brown sells stainless plugs among others.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

None other than Mr. Bob Serva of Fusion Firearms (formerly of course, of Dan Wesson) says they are NOT necessary.

 

Sam

Then why did he sell me a Fusion Firearms 10mm that had one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×