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pdog1517

Reloading .223/5.56

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thank you.

 

Saved me from asking the weekly question.

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Thank just started to reload 223 myself thais helped out alot thank you.

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I am new to the AR-15 reloading world. This is a large mount of usefull data. Thanks in advance for taking the time to do this to help others.

One question though , if these .223 are to be used in a AR-15 rifle do you need to use the harder primers or can you use the regular small rifle primers?

 

Thanks

Edited by Realone

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I'm an old dog who has learned a new trick which I pass along. Regarding reloading .223 for the AR-15.

This holds for both commercial and military brass.

My Remington 700 and Ruger Mini-14 seem to eat most any "normally" reloaded ammo.

However the Rock River AR-15 will not and requires a special menu as it won't chamber with "regular food".

First, Redding small base die. Secondly, using a RCBS IV Rockchucker, I first set the die down until it touches the uplifted ram. Then I turn the die IN 120 degrees or about to the 4 o'clock position and lock it.

Now inserting a fired lubed brass and running a full stroke, it will cam over at the tail end of the stroke.

This insures that the shoulder is properly set back AND that the diameter of the case has been properly reduced.

 

All rounds now feed properly.

 

Color me happy.

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I'm an old dog who has learned a new trick which I pass along. Regarding reloading .223 for the AR-15.

This holds for both commercial and military brass.

My Remington 700 and Ruger Mini-14 seem to eat most any "normally" reloaded ammo.

However the Rock River AR-15 will not and requires a special menu as it won't chamber with "regular food".

First, Redding small base die. Secondly, using a RCBS IV Rockchucker, I first set the die down until it touches the uplifted ram. Then I turn the die IN 120 degrees or about to the 4 o'clock position and lock it.

Now inserting a fired lubed brass and running a full stroke, it will cam over at the tail end of the stroke.

This insures that the shoulder is properly set back AND that the diameter of the case has been properly reduced.

 

All rounds now feed properly.

 

Color me happy.

 

Please remember, this is one chamber or one companies chamber and what works for one may not work for all. It is listed in many manuals to adjust a sizing die in this manner, raise ram to top of stroke, adjust die down until touching shell holder, lower ram, and adjust die down 1/8 turn. This is "full length" sizing and nothing new if you read a manual. SOME rifles may benefit from using ONCE fired brass from YOUR chamber and actaully backing the die off or up from the holder and "neck" sizing. Remember you have to experiment safely,what works in your chamber.

Edited by pdog1517

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Very Nice, I have a lee load master and i'm just seting it up. any help would be grealty ? powder / bullets/ the right dies / new to centerfire reloding have done shotgun for years thanks for any help!!! :thumb: ps Sorry i just found the link on some of my ? thanks

Edited by pjm03fatboy

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Thank you for putting this together, I am sure it took quite a bit of time. I really appreciate it, so thank you

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Anyone feel like the thread needs anything added or changed? Any steps anyone needs more detail on? I don't do a lot in the case prep dept. other than trim, chamfer, debur, and clean pockets. I know that some guys like to get em perfect for consistancy. There's also sizing cases to your specific chamber, and loading bullets to -.010" off the lands or closer for accuracy gains. Let me know if anything seems too vague. I feel like I finally added something worthwhile to the Armory and its' members.

 

Do you ever have any issues seating the primers on certain brands of brass? I have some RPIs that have rings around the primer seat and it won't let me put a primer in, and the seat is clean..I've found it's typically the RPIs produced in 2011. Advice?

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Do you ever have any issues seating the primers on certain brands of brass? I have some RPIs that have rings around the primer seat and it won't let me put a primer in, and the seat is clean..I've found it's typically the RPIs produced in 2011. Advice?

 

You have brass with crimped primers. 99% of mil-spec/non-commercial stuff has this. You must either ream or swage the pockets. Look in the reloading area and there are several discussions about it.

 

Greg

Edited by GLShooter

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You have bras with crimped primers. 99% of mil-spec/non-commercial stuff has this. You must either ream or swage the pockets. Look in the reloading area and there are several discussions about it.

 

Greg

 

Thank you!

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I'm a little confused on Step 4- Trim, Chamfer, and Debur

 

How do you know how much to trim? Sorry if that's a dumb question

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thanks you've shown me what I needed to get started! Plus some of the others asked some good questions,but I am wondering if I had access to used brass is that ok to try and use for a new gun or should I buy new ?

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thanks you've shown me what I needed to get started! Plus some of the others asked some good questions,but I am wondering if I had access to used brass is that ok to try and use for a new gun or should I buy new ?

Your gun will not know the difference if you full length sized.

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Just started hand loading on a lee breech lock and used your short guide to better.understand the process

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