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Sgt. Mike

Has anyone converted the P-16-40 Limited to 10mm?

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I've checked around and I've been unable to find someone who has converted the P-16-40 to a 10mm. Has anyone here found a barrel, drop in kit, and/or a good gunsmith to make the change? Is the change recommended? Does the Clark Barrel work in the P-16? All help and advise is appreciated. Thank you in advance. Michael, mgreen@cvalley.net

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I've checked around and I've been unable to find someone who has converted the P-16-40 to a 10mm. Has anyone here found a barrel, drop in kit, and/or a good gunsmith to make the change? Is the change recommended? Does the Clark Barrel work in the P-16? All help and advise is appreciated. Thank you in advance. Michael, mgreen@cvalley.net

 

Did you get anywhere with the conversion?

I want to do the same. But I'm waiting until DT ammo is available in Canada.

 

-Max.

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I always wanted to do the conversion to my p16. The easiest way is probably to have your barrel reamed out. I wanted to retain the ability to fire 40 in competition and figured I would need a dedicated 10mm barrel fitted (Bar-sto).

Ryan

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All thats needed is the following:

 

Barrel reamed to 10mm or a drop in 10mm barrel. Para's dont have that tight of tollerances so fitting shouldnt be that hard.

20-24 pound recoil spring. The 10mm will put a hurting on that spring calibrated for the 40.

Full length guide rod is not needed but would help.

EGW flat base firing pin stop. This will slow the unlocking of the breech.

 

Very easy to do with around 150-200 dollars. Mags will run fine as well.

 

Good luck and give us a report with picts if you would :thumb:

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Why bother? Just load the 40 S&W long (abt 1.230" ... about 0.030" short of 10mm) and increase the charge weight you use. Likely to have to use a stouter recoil spring. Use 10mm mags and small rifle primers.

 

Now you have a cartridge that can make very close to 10mm velocities and has a short case that is easy to extract and eject.

 

I have run 135 Noslers at 1580 fps in a comp gun built with a ramped bbl and a Delta Elite slide. Is WAY too much as it leaves heavy dents in T1 armor steel targets. I usually back down to 1350 which is plenty and not quite so violent.

 

Last time I sectioned 10mm and 40 S&W cases, I found that the 40 cases were actually thicker in the head area than the 10s.

 

Mike

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Why bother? Just load the 40 S&W long (abt 1.230" ... about 0.030" short of 10mm) and increase the charge weight you use. Likely to have to use a stouter recoil spring. Use 10mm mags and small rifle primers.

 

Now you have a cartridge that can make very close to 10mm velocities and has a short case that is easy to extract and eject.

 

I have run 135 Noslers at 1580 fps in a comp gun built with a ramped bbl and a Delta Elite slide. Is WAY too much as it leaves heavy dents in T1 armor steel targets. I usually back down to 1350 which is plenty and not quite so violent.

 

Last time I sectioned 10mm and 40 S&W cases, I found that the 40 cases were actually thicker in the head area than the 10s.

 

Mike

 

 

No offense, but I would not reccomend this to a beginner reloader nor an experienced one. Loading a round that long that is allready near max pressure is foolish, if not border line dangerous.

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Give me a break! Loading any round to near max pressure is not a task that should be suggested for the beginner.

 

As per length of a loaded cartridge ... let's assume that the head of both cases are of equivalent strength (last I looked at sectioned cases, the 40 is more heavily built) what's the difference in how one gains internal volume (i.e. using a longer case or loading long)? Assuming a sufficiently strong case head, the way to get better performance in a pistol cartridge IS to increase the case volume (for use in a firearm able to tolerate the additional pressure).

 

The greatest danger in fussing with the length of a cartridge (as long as your NOT using very small charges of slow burning powder) is in DECREASING the OAL ... that WILL drive pressures up! The other great danger in building long 40 ammo that will run higher pressures is that someone will discharge one of the rounds in a weapon not built for that kind of pressure. BUT the long loaded 40 is OBVIOUSLY different from standard 40. They do not fit in the magazines of my other 40s (SIG 229, CZ 75, and an Astra Firestar).

 

All that said, I would not recommend doing this for a firearm that is not fitted with a fully supported barrel such as the Para or a custom 1911. I've seen way to many 10mm pistols that throw spents that have bulged into the unsupported area at the mouth of the barrel. Many were Colts. THAT scares me a whole lot more than loading a short case longer when it's used in a well built pistol with a fully supported chamber.

 

(BTW: You will note that I did not give any loading information for the hottest of the ammo that I've shot in a 40 S&W. I know my pistol is well built. I can't begin to ascertain if someone else's is.)

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Yes, I have, quite successfully.

 

I had Bar-Sto fit the barrel, and tweak the springs and trigger to match. Works like a charm, though not yet reliably with the heavy hardcast bullets.

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Bob Hunter of Hunter's Custom reamed my barrel...He is the PO man. Going from the P-16 "Limited" to the P-16 10mm "UnLimited" was the best money I ever spent!

IM000001.jpg

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I've checked around and I've been unable to find someone who has converted the P-16-40 to a 10mm. Has anyone here found a barrel, drop in kit, and/or a good gunsmith to make the change? Is the change recommended? Does the Clark Barrel work in the P-16? All help and advise is appreciated. Thank you in advance. Michael, mgreen@cvalley.net

 

Call Bar-Sto and speak with Irving Stone III (the son of Irving Stone II, and a 25+ year devotee of the 10mm Auto.) He'll treat you right! They can be reached at 1-605-720-4000 between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. Mountain Time.

 

If you speak with Nancy, you'll be talking with a wonderful receptionist!

 

Scott

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Call Bar-Sto and speak with Irving Stone III (the son of Irving Stone II, and a 25+ year devotee of the 10mm Auto.) He'll treat you right! They can be reached at 1-605-720-4000 between 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. Mountain Time.

 

If you speak with Nancy, you'll be talking with a wonderful receptionist!

 

Scott

 

Thanks for the info! I just got the Limited, and the magazines are unmolested. I loaded up 16 rounds of 10mm from Georgia Arms, they fit like they're made to go there! I'm going to get the separate barrel and springs so I can run the .40 ammo for practice and competitions and the 10mm for hunting and defensive work.

 

Jim

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I converted a P-16 Limited using a Bar-Sto barrel, EGW firing pin stop, and heavy Wolf recoil and main springs. I would recommend reaming your factory barrel unless you plan to switch back and forth between 10 and .40. On a side note I was not really impressed with the Bar-Sto barrel and I really wasn't impressed with the Para. It had one of the rail slots in the slide incompletely machined and the ejector was so soft that after a couple hundred rounds of .40 it mushroomed so bad that it looked like a rail road spike.

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Just completed a conversion of a P16-40 to 10MM. Used a Storm Lake "drop in barrel" (it wasn't drop in), new full length guide rod and 22lb spring. Had to do some fitting including changing the barrel link.

 

Just shot it for the first time last week, and so far I really like it. Minor problem though, the rear sight fell off! So, have some more work to do.

 

This pistol as a .40 was really accurate. So far, I think the 10mm version will be as well.

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Cool! :thumb: Welcome.

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